Detailing process

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dmbfaninatsx

New member
So this weekend i am going to be doing my '06 TSX, and obviously it is a new car, so i wasn't sure if this process made sense or not:



-Wash (meg's GC)

-clay

-DACP w/white polishing pad

-Natty's Blue w/grey finishing pad



I don't have any pictures, but i am going to be taking some before and afters this weekend, but the paint is good condition there are some light scratches that can only be seen in the sun. I picked up the poorboy's kit from autogeek, so i have those products as well. Any suggestions would be welcomed!
 
if there are very light scratches, you may not need the dacp and can go with something that is less abrasive, like #80. start with the least aggressive product first and then go from there...
 
What is the main difference between #80 and #3? I only have #3 right now. I also have SSR1 and 2.5, so between 1, 2.5, Megs #3 and DACP, what is the least abrasive, ie. where should i start?
 
In addition, what is a good temperature to start worrying about preping for winter weather, as far as product durablity is concerned?
 
I'm with imacarnut, you might even be able to get with SSR1. If you find that is not tackling the scratches try the SSR2.5 with a polishing pad. Haven't used the Meg's polishes so I can't really comment on them. As for prepping for winter, where are you? I don't think you should be applying a sealant or wax much below 70 degrees, I'd think 65 would be your absolute lowest you should be trying it.
 
I am in chicago, but if i am in a heated garage when i wax, will the wax be able to set ok if i am driving it around in cold weather?
 
Ben Kenobi said:
I don't think you should be applying a sealant or wax much below 70 degrees, I'd think 65 would be your absolute lowest you should be trying it.
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Spoken like a true Canadian?? 70 degrees is summer there, right? :p I think you can go a lot lower than that...I've put LSP on when it's...well...colder than that.



#3 is much less aggressive than #80. Start with the SSR1 or #3 (which are about the same cut), if they don't do anything for you, move to the SSR2.5 or DACP (which are about the same cut). I don't think you'll be hurting anything with the 2.5/DACP, even if it's a new car, and it likely has some dealer wash swirls...
 
dmbfaninatsx said:
What is the main difference between #80 and #3? I only have #3 right now...
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#3 is a functionally nonabrasive product, what Meguiar's calls a "pure polish". I've used it on ss lacquer and it never did any cutting for me, which confirms what the two Mike P.s at Meguiar's have said about it being nonabrasive. It'll hide some flaws but it won't really remove them. That might be what you want in this case, I dunno.



#83/DACP is an abrasive product that will probably *not* yield a ready-to-wax finish when used with a PC or by hand, you'll have to follow up with a milder product to remove the light micromarring that the #83 will usually leave behind.



Sorry, not familiar with the SSR line but IIRC their SSR1 is very, very mildly abrasive and would thus probably be my first choice if you're not gonna just hide them with the Meg's #3..
 
Does it make more sense to use a finishing pad or a polishing pad for the #3 (or a glaze in general)? The other thing that i wasn't sure about as i was polishing (w/ssr1) was if i was using too much, is there a sign of using too much, or that it isn't breaking down?
 
Can't help with the SSR Q as I've never used it.



With a nonabrasive product like #3, any pad that doesn't have any functional cut on *your* paint will work fine. Most polishing pads are fine, though I hesitate to generalize. I generally prefer polishing pads (over finishing pads) as they don't load up with the oils/etc. in such products and I just prefer the way firmer pads work for me.



Some *very* soft paints might need a finishing pad, but as best I can tell such paints are few and far between. The lacquer on my Jag is soft but I use poishing pads for stuff like this with no problems.
 
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