Detailing/PC noob saying thanks + pics

R

Raj04GT

New member
First off I'd like to thank everyone on this board for providing excellent info. I posted here a while ago looking for advice on removing swirls got some great feedback. I ordered a bunch of stuff and had mixed success. The good news is that I was able to remove a lot of the swirls from most of the car. The bad news, the swirls on the hood and roof were really bad and too much for a newb with a PC.

I was only able to take a few pics b/c the battery in the digicam was running low. The first pic shows how bad the swirls were on the right side of the tape. The second pic shows the result after Menzerna IP and FPII via PC w/light cutting pad. I also added VM Red Machine Glaze and PB EX afterwards but don't have the pics.....dead battery.

As for the hood and roof, it looks like I'll have to turn to a pro with a rotary.....unless anyone has any other suggestions.

Thanks again,

Swirls.jpg


No%20Swirls.jpg
 
A PC should be able to correct those types of swirls. You might want to try your final polish with a polishing pad. Also, it may just take 2-3 passes to get rid of the swirls. You can't expect them to all go away after just one pass. Overall, I think you did an excellent job and produced awesome results. You should be very proud of it. Just remeber that with anything, practice makes perfect.

I just remembered that another member here said the clearcoat of the 04 Mustangs is a pain to get perfect. I detailed an 04 Mach 1 a few weeks ago and couldn't get it perfect either. Just keep at it and I'm sure you'll find a process that makes you happy.
 
I also think you did a great first job just remember as you go along your gonna produce better results.
 
You did a great job. You can do the hood with a cutting pad, and then follow up with a polishing pad. The Mustang paint can be a PIA, but take your time, work in the shade and dont be afraid to crank up the PC to 5-5.5 and lean into it a little bit. Do small areas and be patient. As Adam Sandler always yells, "YOU CAN DEW IT!!!!"

I was able to do a black 2004 Mustang with a PC, and it was in bad condition. Here is the thread:

http://www.detailcity.org/forums/the-detailing-showcase/12871-2004-mustang-rises-the-dead.html
 
NICE JOB!:howdy how did you like the menzerna? I know you have nothing to compare with but I did the same thing on my first detail moose and all.
nice work .:)
 
Reading my post, I realized that I left out some info.

I used IP with a light cutting pad and a polishing pad with FPII. Then used finishing pads for the RMG and EX. As for the hood and roof, I made two passes and both have improved signifcantly but not quite up to detailcity standards....lol.

I know it's tough to gauge w/o pics but do you think I should step up to a yellow cutting pad with IP or possibly a compound?

Thanks again.


audiboy said:
A PC should be able to correct those types of swirls. You might want to try your final polish with a polishing pad. Also, it may just take 2-3 passes to get rid of the swirls. You can't expect them to all go away after just one pass. Overall, I think you did an excellent job and produced awesome results. You should be very proud of it. Just remeber that with anything, practice makes perfect.

I just remembered that another member here said the clearcoat of the 04 Mustangs is a pain to get perfect. I detailed an 04 Mach 1 a few weeks ago and couldn't get it perfect either. Just keep at it and I'm sure you'll find a process that makes you happy.
Click to expand...
 
All I can say is wow! Amazing job, I hope to have my car that clean and wet one day.

Thanks.

Craigster said:
You did a great job. You can do the hood with a cutting pad, and then follow up with a polishing pad. The Mustang paint can be a PIA, but take your time, work in the shade and dont be afraid to crank up the PC to 5-5.5 and lean into it a little bit. Do small areas and be patient. As Adam Sandler always yells, "YOU CAN DEW IT!!!!"

I was able to do a black 2004 Mustang with a PC, and it was in bad condition. Here is the thread:

http://www.detailcity.org/forums/the-detailing-showcase/12871-2004-mustang-rises-the-dead.html
Click to expand...
 
The IP was great, especially knowing that I would have to work it in for a decent amount of time. There was also a fair amount of dust with the IP that I didn't expect. The only thing I had an issue with was the FPII. I'm not sure if I was doing something wrong, but the FPII seemed to dry really fast.

I'm tempted to try out the Optimum polish. I also want to try more of the Poorboy's stuff, the EX was awesome and smelled good. I think I'm starting to get hooked on detailing. Between my car, golf and now detailing, I'll have no money left.....damn hobbies...lol.

glen22 said:
NICE JOB!:howdy how did you like the menzerna? I know you have nothing to compare with but I did the same thing on my first detail moose and all.
nice work .:)
Click to expand...
 
BTW, beautiful vette!!

Craigster said:
You did a great job. You can do the hood with a cutting pad, and then follow up with a polishing pad. The Mustang paint can be a PIA, but take your time, work in the shade and dont be afraid to crank up the PC to 5-5.5 and lean into it a little bit. Do small areas and be patient. As Adam Sandler always yells, "YOU CAN DEW IT!!!!"

I was able to do a black 2004 Mustang with a PC, and it was in bad condition. Here is the thread:

http://www.detailcity.org/forums/the-detailing-showcase/12871-2004-mustang-rises-the-dead.html
Click to expand...
 
Raj04GT said:
Reading my post, I realized that I left out some info.

I used IP with a light cutting pad and a polishing pad with FPII. Then used finishing pads for the RMG and EX. As for the hood and roof, I made two passes and both have improved signifcantly but not quite up to detailcity standards....lol.

I know it's tough to gauge w/o pics but do you think I should step up to a yellow cutting pad with IP or possibly a compound?

Thanks again.
Click to expand...


I definately don't think you need a heavier cut because those are finer swirls/spiderwebbing. I think another pass with your final polish could do you good if you work it in really well. You might also want to top it with a carnauba to help with the finish. Like I said earlier, you did a fantastic job, especially for a first timer. You should be very happy with your results.
 
Raj04GT said:
BTW, beautiful vette!!
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Have you tried an Orange pad? I think you might get great results, and it's a little more foregiving than the yellow. In regards to the FPII drying, were you working outside in the sun? I used to get the same thing with any dark color in the sun...I found using a fold up canopy, shade of a tree or anything to keep the paint cooler helps significantly.
 
audiboy said:
I definately don't think you need a heavier cut because those are finer swirls/spiderwebbing. I think another pass with your final polish could do you good if you work it in really well. You might also want to top it with a carnauba to help with the finish. Like I said earlier, you did a fantastic job, especially for a first timer. You should be very happy with your results.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice, I'll give it another pass with the FPII and throw on some Natty's Blue as well.

I do have one more question. Since I've already sealed the hood with EX, how do I go about removing the sealant so I can polish again? Clay?

Thanks for all your help.

-Raj
 
Craigster said:
Thanks!

Have you tried an Orange pad? I think you might get great results, and it's a little more foregiving than the yellow. In regards to the FPII drying, were you working outside in the sun? I used to get the same thing with any dark color in the sun...I found using a fold up canopy, shade of a tree or anything to keep the paint cooler helps significantly.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was using the Orange pad with IP and the white with FP. As for the FPII drying, I was working in the sun...I'll have to find my way into a friend's garage for the next round.

Thanks
 
If you polish the hood again, the polish will remove the EX for you. The Nattys will top the EX with a deep wet look you'll love. If you have any Spray & Gloss, use the spit shine removal. Thats where you let the Natty's dry, give a spray of S&G, then wipe off. The Nattys comes off easier, you'll get extra slickness an shine all in one step. The S&G is also a great post wash lubricant to help avoid marring. After you wash the car, spray S&G on it while its still wet, then dry. It saves a step and adds slickness everytime you wash.
 
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