HondaMan
2004 Civic EX magnesium
I drafted this to give to family and friends for whom I do an occasional detail. Figured it'd help them to maintain the car, maybe get them into detailing (or part-detailing, anyway), and also patronize some of our sponsors.
Any comments or suggestions, please post. Remember, it's only 2-pages long so it fits in an 8 1/2 x 11" plastic sleeve (2-sided viewing). And it's for beginners, so I just went over the basics -- if they want more, the site and my handle are listed below.
____________________________________________________________
Taking Care of Your Detailed Car
Congratulations!! You are now the proud owner of a professionally-detailed auto. Professional detailing normally costs $250-$500. Detailing protects your car from acid rain, snow, salt, rock and dirt chips, and regular wear-and-tear. If you garage your car, the finish and protection can last up to 4-6 months. Non-garaged, it can still last 3-4 months. Some people detail their car every week but that is not necessary to maintain your car's finish and look.
Detailing is fun and good exercise. Depending on the driving you do and whether the car is garaged, detailing your car 2 times each year (Spring and Fall) plus regular washing is sufficient. Here are some helpful hints to stretch the protection out and maximize the longevity of the finish and it's attractiveness.
Washing: This is the most important thing you can do to protect your car once detailed. Even though the car is now sealed and protected, that sealant will now be absorbing the brunt of water, dirt, dust, bird droppings, etc. This is GOOD – it means your paint and clearcoat are not taking the hits. Ideally, you should wash the car weekly if possible; every 2 weeks is normal upkeep; and you should not go longer than 3-4 weeks unless it is garaged daily and driven lightly. By keeping dirt and dust off the finish, you'll make it last longer. Plus, additional dirt and dust finds it much more difficult to "stick" to a smooth finish than a rough, dirty one.
(1) KEEP YOUR SEALANT-PROTECTED CAR CLEAN AND IT WILL LAST MUCH LONGER THAN ONE THAT IS NOT WASHED BETWEEN FULL DETAILINGS. (2) DO NOT GO THROUGH CAR WASHES !! (3) BIRD DROPPINGS ARE VERY ACIDIC AND SHOULD BE REMOVED ASAP !!
It is important that your washing soap wash the dirt off, but NOT the sealants. I recommend POORBOYS Super Slick 'N Suds Car Wash -- it really is super-slick and you can use it weekly and it won't degrade the protected layers. If you use other compounds that have abrasives in them – the cheap and easy way to get good cleaning/scrubbing action – you will remove your protective layers in addition to dirt and your car's paint will be naked without the protective sealant layers.
Claying: You should clay your car(s) at least twice each year: in the spring (after the winter salt) and in the fall (your last detail/washing before it gets too cold). Claying is done after the car is washed and dried. It involves rubbing a special clay and lubricant compound over the car's finish and making it super smooth. Claying gets out embedded dirt and grime from within the paint/clearcoat and also cleans tar, bugs, and tough stains that a wash and sponge just can't get out. Claying your front grill area involves some work, but it's worth it: a super-smooth paint finish upon which to apply protective sealants. Claying also removes any residual dead wax or sealants that are worn away.
If you clay a large portion of your car to get rid of tar or bugs, re-seal that area. For that reason, you won't want to clay each time you detail or apply sealant protection. If the car is detailed and maintained – sealant protected and washed regularly – then the paint/clearcoat should be pretty well-shielded and clean. The sealant layers take the brunt of the damage and you should only have to clay tar, bugs, or tough stains that washing with a sponge won't remove.
Generally, I clay my entire car 2 times a year.
Swirl and Scratch Removal: You can do this 2 ways. You can use a chemical cleaner (which also gives you a sealant layer) like KLASSE ALL-IN-ONE. This is a great product to have (lots of non-car cleaning uses). It's great for cleaning AND sealing in 1 step when you're tight with time (NOTE: You can't "layer" this product. You have to utilize a pure sealant with no abrasives). Klasse AIO can be done by hand but it will only get rid of the lightest and mildest scratches.
For a car with heavier scratch problems, I recommend POORBOYS PROFESSIONAL POLISH or one of the POORBOYS SUPER SWIRL REMOVERS. You can do these products by hand (esp. the Pro Polish) but the SSR compounding is time-consuming and requires a lot of effort. To really do it right, you can look into buying a Porter Cable machine for $100 or so (pads are extra). This machine is idiot-proof and allows you to spread the compounds quite easily (you can use it for other steps, too).
Once you've washed, clayed, and (if necessary) SSR'ed or polished the car, you can apply your sealants.
Sealants: The Last Step Products (LSP's) that go on your car must be 100% pure if you want to layer. Klasse AIO is a 1-layer product LSP. It's great as a base for more layers and also as another cleaning step. If you want multi-layer LSP's, you can add KLASSE SG (a pure sealant glaze that is acrylic) on top of AIO or your polished/SSR'd finish. You can also layer FOUR STAR ULTIMATE PAINT PROTECTION (a polymer) or POORBOYS EX-P (a resin). Or layer the Klasse SG first – if you think acrylic is strongest protection-wise – and then add UPP on top if you want an even slicker finish. Different sealants look better on different colored cars, dark or light colored. You can experiment and mix-and-match on your own or go by others past experiences (Dwayne @ PremiumAutoCare.com can help you).
My LSP's are always synthetics. I do not use waxes because even if they are on top of stronger-protecting sealants underneath, wax itself lasts much less than synthetics. Unless you really see a difference with wax, or your car is more of a show car, you probably are best with sealants as your LSP.
If you maintain a detailed car -- 2 complete or semi-complete detailings per year plus the regular washings -- your car will see reduced weathering as well as fewer rock chips and scratches by 75-90% over time. Your car's finish after a few years will look brand new – and your car will be worth thousands of dollars more, or at least look that way !! www.detailcity.com (I'm "HondaMan" on the site).
Any comments or suggestions, please post. Remember, it's only 2-pages long so it fits in an 8 1/2 x 11" plastic sleeve (2-sided viewing). And it's for beginners, so I just went over the basics -- if they want more, the site and my handle are listed below.
____________________________________________________________
Taking Care of Your Detailed Car
Congratulations!! You are now the proud owner of a professionally-detailed auto. Professional detailing normally costs $250-$500. Detailing protects your car from acid rain, snow, salt, rock and dirt chips, and regular wear-and-tear. If you garage your car, the finish and protection can last up to 4-6 months. Non-garaged, it can still last 3-4 months. Some people detail their car every week but that is not necessary to maintain your car's finish and look.
Detailing is fun and good exercise. Depending on the driving you do and whether the car is garaged, detailing your car 2 times each year (Spring and Fall) plus regular washing is sufficient. Here are some helpful hints to stretch the protection out and maximize the longevity of the finish and it's attractiveness.
Washing: This is the most important thing you can do to protect your car once detailed. Even though the car is now sealed and protected, that sealant will now be absorbing the brunt of water, dirt, dust, bird droppings, etc. This is GOOD – it means your paint and clearcoat are not taking the hits. Ideally, you should wash the car weekly if possible; every 2 weeks is normal upkeep; and you should not go longer than 3-4 weeks unless it is garaged daily and driven lightly. By keeping dirt and dust off the finish, you'll make it last longer. Plus, additional dirt and dust finds it much more difficult to "stick" to a smooth finish than a rough, dirty one.
(1) KEEP YOUR SEALANT-PROTECTED CAR CLEAN AND IT WILL LAST MUCH LONGER THAN ONE THAT IS NOT WASHED BETWEEN FULL DETAILINGS. (2) DO NOT GO THROUGH CAR WASHES !! (3) BIRD DROPPINGS ARE VERY ACIDIC AND SHOULD BE REMOVED ASAP !!
It is important that your washing soap wash the dirt off, but NOT the sealants. I recommend POORBOYS Super Slick 'N Suds Car Wash -- it really is super-slick and you can use it weekly and it won't degrade the protected layers. If you use other compounds that have abrasives in them – the cheap and easy way to get good cleaning/scrubbing action – you will remove your protective layers in addition to dirt and your car's paint will be naked without the protective sealant layers.
Claying: You should clay your car(s) at least twice each year: in the spring (after the winter salt) and in the fall (your last detail/washing before it gets too cold). Claying is done after the car is washed and dried. It involves rubbing a special clay and lubricant compound over the car's finish and making it super smooth. Claying gets out embedded dirt and grime from within the paint/clearcoat and also cleans tar, bugs, and tough stains that a wash and sponge just can't get out. Claying your front grill area involves some work, but it's worth it: a super-smooth paint finish upon which to apply protective sealants. Claying also removes any residual dead wax or sealants that are worn away.
If you clay a large portion of your car to get rid of tar or bugs, re-seal that area. For that reason, you won't want to clay each time you detail or apply sealant protection. If the car is detailed and maintained – sealant protected and washed regularly – then the paint/clearcoat should be pretty well-shielded and clean. The sealant layers take the brunt of the damage and you should only have to clay tar, bugs, or tough stains that washing with a sponge won't remove.
Generally, I clay my entire car 2 times a year.
Swirl and Scratch Removal: You can do this 2 ways. You can use a chemical cleaner (which also gives you a sealant layer) like KLASSE ALL-IN-ONE. This is a great product to have (lots of non-car cleaning uses). It's great for cleaning AND sealing in 1 step when you're tight with time (NOTE: You can't "layer" this product. You have to utilize a pure sealant with no abrasives). Klasse AIO can be done by hand but it will only get rid of the lightest and mildest scratches.
For a car with heavier scratch problems, I recommend POORBOYS PROFESSIONAL POLISH or one of the POORBOYS SUPER SWIRL REMOVERS. You can do these products by hand (esp. the Pro Polish) but the SSR compounding is time-consuming and requires a lot of effort. To really do it right, you can look into buying a Porter Cable machine for $100 or so (pads are extra). This machine is idiot-proof and allows you to spread the compounds quite easily (you can use it for other steps, too).
Once you've washed, clayed, and (if necessary) SSR'ed or polished the car, you can apply your sealants.
Sealants: The Last Step Products (LSP's) that go on your car must be 100% pure if you want to layer. Klasse AIO is a 1-layer product LSP. It's great as a base for more layers and also as another cleaning step. If you want multi-layer LSP's, you can add KLASSE SG (a pure sealant glaze that is acrylic) on top of AIO or your polished/SSR'd finish. You can also layer FOUR STAR ULTIMATE PAINT PROTECTION (a polymer) or POORBOYS EX-P (a resin). Or layer the Klasse SG first – if you think acrylic is strongest protection-wise – and then add UPP on top if you want an even slicker finish. Different sealants look better on different colored cars, dark or light colored. You can experiment and mix-and-match on your own or go by others past experiences (Dwayne @ PremiumAutoCare.com can help you).
My LSP's are always synthetics. I do not use waxes because even if they are on top of stronger-protecting sealants underneath, wax itself lasts much less than synthetics. Unless you really see a difference with wax, or your car is more of a show car, you probably are best with sealants as your LSP.
If you maintain a detailed car -- 2 complete or semi-complete detailings per year plus the regular washings -- your car will see reduced weathering as well as fewer rock chips and scratches by 75-90% over time. Your car's finish after a few years will look brand new – and your car will be worth thousands of dollars more, or at least look that way !! www.detailcity.com (I'm "HondaMan" on the site).
