Detailing Door Jambs (Door shuts)

togwt

togwt

The Old Grey Whistle Test


1. Use P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum Optiâ„¢ Clean), dilute the cleaner as necessary, using a damp micro fibre towel to go over the door jamb to remove excess grease etc.

2. Ensure all water drainage holes are clear

3. Take a Swissvax Detail Brush and ensure that you have got into the corners, just lightly brush over it a couple of times.

4. For difficult to reach areas use the Mini E-Z Detail brush with a flexible shaft

5. Rinse it off using a wet microfiber towel, and dry thoroughly

6. Use a Carnauba wax or a spray (WOWA) polymer sealant Zanio Z-8 for protection

7. Repeat this process on the other side and carry on detailing the rest of your car

8. Check the hinge / latch lubrication, renew with a clear synthetic grease (WURTH Spray Grease Synthetic Lubricant) or white Lithium grease, as necessary

9. Apply WD-40 (water displacement) to lock as this will prevent moisture, rust and or freezing

10. Apply Graphite Lubricant to the door locks, hinges and latches

11. Remove dust / dirt from the rubber sleeves and apply Iz einszett Vinyl-Rubber Care'

12. While you are doing this part of the job, also clean the area around the boot lid, hood and inside the fuel filler flap and access area.

13. Clean the water channels in the trunk as well as under the hood.



Don’t forget the door sills / kick plates; use P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Cleanâ„¢) once clean and dry, they should be protected by applying a surface dressing to vinyl surfaces and either wax or sealant protection to painted surfaces.
 
For a 'volume' detailer that (power-washing) would be a fast and effective way of cleaning door jambs.



This as written for those who do not own a power-washer or would rather not use one so close to the vehicles interior
 
These steps look pretty thorough and might be for a car with really dirty or neglected jambs. I like to wipe the jambs of the doors, hood, trunk, fuel door at each washing. I have been searching all over the forum for when the best (or mostly accepted) time to clean the jambs is in the process of a detailing or washing. In the past, I've done it after washing the car, but before drying. I know, I know, not the best. I know that now. So My current thoughts on it are to do it between doing the interior (vacuum, windows, etc) and the wash (wheels/wells, body).



I'm using Garry Dean's IUDJ and a damp MF towel to clean the jambs. I tell ya, that's stuff's like Franks Red Hot sauce. I put that sh*t on EVERYTHING! haha. ... Anyway, My thoughts on the jambs are to always keep them fairly clean with a quick wipe so that a heavier detail of that area is not needed as often. And I'm kinda anal about cleaning everything. Which is why I have the question about it. Here's why I am not sure as to the best time:



1. Clean the jambs before washing - I will have water left in the jambs which will aid in them getting dirty quicker and they might leave spots or streaks. I have an air compressor, but my neighbors already think I'm overly anal about my car(s). And the compressor is pretty loud and adds more time.



2. Cleaning the jambs after - The car is outside longer and it might result in water spots or other streaking on the exterior or require more drying. I realize the air compressor would fix that too, but I'm trying to avoid that.



Anyway, opinions are definitely welcome and appreciated. I know I've revived a pretty old thread, but I like the idea of adding some info on the "when" to a good topic on the "how". :)
 
Anyway, opinions are definitely welcome and appreciated. I know I've revived a pretty old thread, but I like the idea of adding some info on the "when" to a good topic on the "how".



You may get more input by posting in the detailing section as opposed to ' TOGWT Detailing Wiki'
 
I polish and LSP the doorjambs just like the rest of the body. I'll even use long sticks (wrapped with MF) to reach into the far recesses. These areas are often not cleared, and they have a rough texture that retains dirt (hence moisture too). Gotta be careful as the paint is often very thin, but I like to smooth them up nicely for both functional (easier to keep clean) and cosmetic reasons.



Easy to keep 'em clean once I do this, a quick swipe with a sudsy swab/little BHB works fine and the LSP usually lasts for years. They often get rinsed well enough just by what water gets in there during the normal rinse, and I always wipe them down with QD when drying.
 
TOGWT said:
Anyway, opinions are definitely welcome and appreciated. I know I've revived a pretty old thread, but I like the idea of adding some info on the "when" to a good topic on the "how".



You may get more input by posting in the detailing section as opposed to ' TOGWT Detailing Wiki'
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I'll do that. I replied to this thread not knowing where it was first since I found it via search. Feel free to delete if necessary.



Thanks for the tip, Accumulator.
 
Feel free to delete if necessary.



Absolutly not necessary, and I appreciate your comments/input. My suggestion was to enable a better response as these "How tos" are not geared towards volume detailing
 
I get my door jambs clean and just use a spray wax or detail spray. They then stay cleaner and so just need to wipe down with a waterless wash or cleaning detailer to tidy up.
 
I typically do the door jambs while washing. I use engine degreaser to remove any grease or baked on grime. Of course, you do have to use a detail brush (mine is a boars hair) detail brush to get in all the crevices. I will then take the nozzle off of the hose and just let it flow naturally down the jambs after scrubbing. Sometimes, it is necessary to go over it twice. I then wrap it up with a good coat of wax. I like using just the natural flow of the hose water so it doesn't splash in the interior, and when doing the doors underneath the interior panels (on the door itself), it doesn't splash back at you either.
 
Street5927 said:
I typically do the door jambs while washing. I use engine degreaser to remove any grease or baked on grime. Of course, you do have to use a detail brush (mine is a boars hair) detail brush to get in all the crevices. I will then take the nozzle off of the hose and just let it flow naturally down the jambs after scrubbing. Sometimes, it is necessary to go over it twice. I then wrap it up with a good coat of wax. I like using just the natural flow of the hose water so it doesn't splash in the interior, and when doing the doors underneath the interior panels (on the door itself), it doesn't splash back at you either.
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FWIW, on a lot of cars the door jambs up by the hinges aren't clear coated, just base coat. Using something as harsh as an engine degreaser can stain the paint(basecoat in this case)especially if its let to dwell at all or runs. I'm not doubting the way you are doing it, I just wanted to mention this to someone who has never done it before. I hope no offense is taken.
 
LilJayV10 said:
FWIW, on a lot of cars the door jambs up by the hinges aren't clear coated, just base coat..
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Right :xyxthumbs many out-of-the-way areas aren't cleared, even on high-end cars. And what little paint is on those areas is often merely "fogged" on; you can cut through it with hardly any abrasion at all. Better be careful even with stuff like [your most gentle polish]. Gee, guess how I know :o
 
When I am cleaning hinges, I used my electric pressure washer and turn the pressure down to about 100'ish PSI. This way, there is no way to splash water in interior bits or the door card. The only way to get water on those spots is to directly spray them.



If you do not have a pressure washer with adjustable pressure, try filling a spray bottle with water or quick-d. The nozzle can be set to a straight stream, a fine mist or some area in between. It's a great way to remove the slight film left over from your chemical treatment.
 
I have often wondered if that Tornado thing would work cleaning jambs. If they weren't so damn much money I would pick one up and try it.
 
LilJayV10 said:
I have often wondered if that Tornado thing would work cleaning jambs. If they weren't so damn much money I would pick one up and try it.
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If you want something that can be used a bit more on the aggressive side without the chance of overspray, grab a McCulloch steamer. ;)
 
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