Decontamination System to remove rust

RAG

New member
Just thought I'd share my findings now that I have some experience...starting using the Auto Int. Decontamination system a couple months ago in an attempt to tackle the severe rust contanimation problem we have here due to the salt air, industrial fallout, the nearby airport and a variety of other factors. I have found that it works "pretty" well, but if the rust is bad...it will only scratch the surface of the rust particles. However, used as a monthly prevention wash...it seems to be working well so far on a couple test vehicles that have always been prone so severe rust. I can see where this system would be a big benefit on thin, soft, black paint (like a black honda) where you would otherwise have to clay the rust out (and then polish because clayinig rust out almost always marrs soft paint) a few times a year in this area...possibly one would be able to use the decontamination wash 4 or 5 times per year instead - the advantage being you wouldn't have to polish after claying...saving paint.
 
Interesting.



Are you sure it's new contamination as opposed to old stuff "coming back"?



I'd think you could seal the paint sufficiently (maybe numerous coats of KSG/Zaino) once you got it decontaminated and thus solve the problem. Not that I'm in your shoes or anything..
 
Nah...I appreciate your input.



I'm not exactly sure about your question. On the vehicle in question...I Clayed, Compounded, and the Polished. Sealed with FMJ. Month later moderate rust was back...washed with Auto Int Decont Syst...after washing, most rust gone...but slight reminants of bigger pieces of rust remaining. Repeated "B" step, but still slight reminants. Next month same thing, only slightly more rust this time. After wash, rust was very minimal. Considering the vehicle's history...I'd consider this to be a relative success and worthwhile...as opposed to performing a clay and polish every other month.



I have KSG, Zaino, FMJ...but in experimenting (on this exact vehicle about 5 months ago (it belongs to my uncle)) I didn't find that it many even the slightest difference between these sealants or between using a single coats and multiple coats. I'm probably the minority here on this website in this regard, but I really don't think applying multiple coats does much of anything, so I don't waste my time doing it any more; on the otherhand, reapplying the sealant once a month or so keeps the vehicle in peak potection, IMO anyway.
 
RAG



When I lived is California I had a few customers that were washed every week and waxed every 4 weeks. They lived at the beach and it was necessary to clay every 6 months.



The ABC system you have been useing is good but time consuming. You can clay during the B portion if the car is in bad shape.
 
Thanks Ron. Every 6 months wouldn't cut it with most of my customers - I have most on the 4 month regimine and even then, the rust can get pretty bad after 4 months depending on their particular environement, habits, and paint. This area is absolute murder on paint. However, as with my own cars if you wash once per week and seal once a month, the rust can be kept to an absolut minimum...requiring clay every 6 months or so as you suggested. But it isn't financially rewarding enough for me to go and wax cars on a monthly basis...I only charge $65 for this (but never, ever do it...as I almost always clay and polish too).



The problem I have with claying during the B step is that you are only supposed to let it dwel for 5-7 minutes and when their is bad rust on a car it is ually a 30-40 minute clay process to completely remove...so it turns out to be a real pain applying the "B" to a couple panels at a time while keeping the rest of the vehicle wet.
 
RAG- You did clarify things for me. I suspect a good bit of it is the old rust coming back. I'd really overkill the "B" step and clay/bug sponge while it's dwelling. Actually, I'd call AutoInt and see if somebody like Ron can help with some suggestions. Ron doesn't get along with everybody, but he and I always got on fine.



IMO the admited hassle of claying while the "B" is dwelling would be well worth it. I did it on our minivan, so it's probably doable. Another similar idea I got from Ron K. at AutoInt is to use a bug sponge while the "B" is dwelling. Wasn't about to try that on *my* car ;) but you might want to experiment.



You can let the "B" dwell a bit longer than the recommended time, or at least it didn't hurt anything when I did it (I'd better watch it here, just because it was OK for me doesn't mean it'll be OK for everyone else).



I'd do the "B". Rinse thoroughly. Then redo the "B" and clay the worst areas. Then consider repeating a few more times, but of course that'll go throught the "B" stuff pretty fast too.
 
I think the ABC wash once a month would keep the rust particles in check around here, but not 100% for sure. I really really don't think 90% of people realize how bad rust contamination can be in certain areas/environements. For instance, my mom is here visiting me today (she l lives north east of Los Angeles a bit) and she has a white Honda accord that's a couple years old and has never, ever been detailed - the rust contamination is almost non-existent...about the amount I'd expect to find on a car around here in about 1 month. I could probably clay here car in less than 10 minutes whereas the paint on most of the cars around here feel like sand paper and take me about 45 minutes to an hour to clay. What really amazes me is the number of "detailers" around here that wax over the top of this crud and call it a "detail" - maybe twice I've come across a car that didn't need to be clayed before waxing (here in SD, that is).
 
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