Decontamination system questions

W

White95Max

New member
1. When you apply each step, is it performed just like a traditional wash? (spray down car with hose, wash with a wash mitt, rinse with the hose, and dry with WW)



2. Is there a dwelling time for any of the steps? How long?



3. Do you have to throw away the wash mitt and WW you use to dry the vehicle after using the decontamination steps?





So let me get this straight... I can just wash the car with this stuff and it will do the same job that claying would do, only better? And faster?
 
I just asked Ketch a similar question today. Here's his response:





It only takes a few minutes more to do the entire car, you need two wash mitts, dedicated, one for A, one for C and the B is applied with a sponge or small wash pad, out of a dispenser bottle to the surface. , We do not recommend spraying, but actually application to the vehicle.



If you are only going to try to correct a small area, then clay it, as that would be the least time consuming, and cheaper.



However, and this is just something that I personally recommend, is to ABC a vehicle once a year, unless it is a garage queen.



Just makes sense to "disinfect" the entire paint system what with all the contaminates that are in the air these days.



EPA, two years ago, identified 287 different air borne contaminating chemical particles in Cincinnati.



Ketch
 
Step C is the normal wash soap isn't it? Why would you need a dedicated wash mitt for step C?

Is there any scrubbing involved in the decontamination process? Or do you just wipe it on and rinse off?



Is Ketch a representative from AutoInt?
 
White95Max said:
Step C is the normal wash soap isn't it? Why would you need a dedicated wash mitt for step C?

Is there any scrubbing involved in the decontamination process? Or do you just wipe it on and rinse off?



Is Ketch a representative from AutoInt?
Click to expand...



Don't know about the AutoInt system, but step C in the Finish Kare is the neutralizing wash step. I wouldn't want to reuse a mitt from a previous step because it will have some chemical residue in it plus some crap from the decon.



Probably no matter how much you'd try to clean it, I just wouldn't risk reintroducing contaminination or chemical residue back onto another car just to save the cost of a new mitt.



As far as I know, there is no scrubbing recommended or involved.
 
Step C is normal car wash. I'm guessing you need sperate washing materials for each so as not to cross mix the acid and alkaline products if the same were to be used. Yes, Ketch is Auto Int's Ron Ketcham.
 
Dwell time is 7 minutes each for a and b, and be must be applied to a semi dry surface otherwise it's potency and ability to work is "dilluted".



Also make sure the surface is cool to the touch(autoint's websruface has temperature instructions but unless you have a way to measure it, the safest way is to just make sure it's cool and you wahs in the shade) and make sure not to let the product dry on the surface. What I do is mix up one gallon of a, and cover the entire car, then (if there is not enough left, I'll mix a second gallon) remit the car as necessary to keep the product from drying. When the dwell time is finished I'll rinse off, and dry any horizontal surfaces(not completely dry, one pass is enough). Leave the glass wet. Then apply b to all horizontal surfaces, by this time most of the water on the rest of the car has sheeted off, so go ahead and cover the rest of the car in b. Then do the glass and rewet as necessary until dwell time is up. Now you have a few options. If the car was severely contaminated, you should clay during the b step, but as the acid breaks down the clay I only do this if the clay was on it's last legs or if the car really needed it. Otherwise I spot clay any parts of the car that needs it after the b step using a solution of c and water in a bottle as lube. Or if the car was in good condition, it will not need to be clayed and you proceed to the final step. Rinse off the b, mix up 2 or 3 gallons of c, and wash as you regularly would.



I know it seems complciated, but it's not. If i have to guess I now only clay maybe 20% of the vehicles I do. On large vehicles where claying can take 30-60 minutes(even more if it's extremely hot and you are working outside of a garage), the abc system only adds 15-25 minutes of washing time, vs. 30-60 minutes of claying.



Good luck :)
 
Let us know how this works out, I've only used it on pretty clean cars, and frankly it seemed like a waste of time. My main angle was to neutralize acid rain spots :nixweiss
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Let us know how this works out, I've only used it on pretty clean cars, and frankly it seemed like a waste of time. My main angle was to neutralize acid rain spots :nixweiss
Click to expand...





Neutralization is different from removal. Acid rain that has already ethched or damaged the resin system cannot be visually removed without buffing. However, the chemical neutralization system can and will stop any further degradation of the resin system as long as it has not already been compromised(ie too much damage already done)> When I get my digital camera fixed I can take some pictures of an Envoy I clean where there is deep acid rain damage, as well as acid rain that has destroyed some of the resin system(spots where the clear is deteriorating and/or paint is flacking off). The latter is what the neutralization wash helps to avoid, the former needs to be buffed out.



Of course fresh water spots/acid rain does get dissolved, but I am not sure which you are referring too.
 
Maxy, I used the FK system; I found Step 1 to be rather offensive, real petroleum distillate smell that I even had trouble getting out of the bucket.
 
OK Here's the way I understand the process:



Spray down the car with the hose. Not too much water...just get it a little wet.

Use the solution of A and water, wash the entire car as normal, allow the solution to dwell for ~10 minutes, but make sure it doesn't dry on the car.

Rinse off solution of A and water. Semi-dry the horizontal panels.

Wash as normal with solution of B and water. Allow the solution to dwell for ~5 minutes.

Rinse off.

Wash car with car soap and water.

Rinse car.

Dry.



Is that right?

Should I try to avoid the trim and/or wiper blades? Or anything else? Tires?

Is the finish supposed to feel as smooth as a just-clayed finish after I'm done?
 
White95Max said:
OK Here's the way I understand the process:



Spray down the car with the hose. Not too much water...just get it a little wet. ** spray it down as you would if you were washing the car normally, ex. get off as much dirt/dust as possible.



Use the solution of A and water, wash the entire car as normal, allow the solution to dwell for ~10 minutes, but make sure it doesn't dry on the car. ** dwell time is 7 minutes, 8 for severely neglected surfaces.



Rinse off solution of A and water. Semi-dry the horizontal panels.

Wash as normal with solution of B and water. Allow the solution to dwell for ~5 minutes.

Rinse off. ** again, dwell time of 7-8 minutes, DO NOT MIX B WITH WATER, USE IT STRAIGHT BY POURING SOME ONTO THE SPONGE AND AGITATING IT ON THE SURFACE.(caps for importance)



Wash car with car soap and water. ** Use the C as this is a neutralization wash. You don't want to have any problems down the line because you used the wrong final wash.

Rinse car.

Dry.



Is that right?

Should I try to avoid the trim and/or wiper blades? Or anything else? Tires?

Is the finish supposed to feel as smooth as a just-clayed finish after I'm done?
Click to expand...



Look at ** for corrections. If you are purchasing the kit autoint has on sale right now, it comes with two wash pads as well as a proper applicator sponge for the B solution. If you use this sponge or similar it's pretty easy to keep the solution off the trim, however I've never had any problem with it damaging the trim, though others who have used both systems extensively have seen damage here and there. Nothing that can't be fixed by re-dyeing the part.
 
Thanks for the corrections. I didn't purchase a kit...I am just getting samples of A and B. I guess I'll go out today and buy a cheap MF to semi-dry the horizontal panels with, and a wash sponge.
 
White95Max said:
Thanks for the corrections. I didn't purchase a kit...I am just getting samples of A and B. I guess I'll go out today and buy a cheap MF to semi-dry the horizontal panels with, and a wash sponge.
Click to expand...





My suggestions is not to use the a and b without c. I would call Ron at AutoInt for his advice because from what I know, it's vital to use the C to neutralizie the acids from the B step.
 
Its the FK kit, step C is just FK's regular car shampoo. Most soaps should work fine, I've deconned with NXT soap as step 3 as a trial, with no ill effects. IIRC from chemistry, nothing special is needed to neutralize acids, just a base or a whole lot of a mid pH solution.
 
So can I use the same wash mitt for all three steps? (And then throw it away of course)

I plan on doing this on Monday evening, and it's supposed to be near 90*F on Monday. Is that a problem?
 
I don't think Ketch/ Auto Int advises that:



Bill D said:
... you need two wash mitts, dedicated, one for A, one for C and the B is applied with a sponge or small wash pad, out of a dispenser bottle to the surface.....



Ketch
Click to expand...



I would call him directly ( number's on Auto Int's site) and get all of your questions answered.
 
OK. Good thing I have two wash mitts laying around that I haven't used yet. And I'll go out and buy a couple other things before starting the process. I'll use a different mitt/sponge for each step.
 
I've used a number of things to apply the A and B, no problems. I *would* use something other than a sponge for the A as you might do a little scrubbing and there's no need to mar the paint.



Use different applicators for A, B, and the final wash.



I've used a number of things to apply the A and B, no problems. Just use something you can control when doing the B.



It's not like the C is base to counteract the acid in B, C is neutral. Using specifically the C isn't *really* necessary, you could use any ~neutral ph shampoo. Give it a good thorough wash with a strong shampoo solution and lots of rinsing and you'll be fine.



[Edited for redundant content :o ]
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top