Dawn Wash

David Fermani said:
AeroCleanse: Do you think there's a benefit to using a decon wash when there's no evidence of fallout/acid rain/rail dust and you're prepping (via Clay & Chemical Cleaner) and ultimately doing a moderate amount of compounding?
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I think you stand a better chance of removing paint sealants with a decon wash. It would depend on how far you think you need to go, and how much time you have. If your compounding, you probably going to take off all LSP anyway. Its probably not needed, but is the ultimate prep if you need it.
 
To those of you that do ONR washes before correction details, how do you remove LSPs prior to polishing? Rely on the clay to do it or is there something else? And as for that pre-wax cleaner Rasky mentioned, that's only for redoing LSPs when no polishing is involved or AFTER polishing, right? That's not used before a correction, unless I'm mistaken. So what's the best way to remove LSPs before correction, CWG notwithstanding? Surely there are other ways besides CWG and Dawn.
 
mikenap said:
To those of you that do ONR washes before correction details, how do you remove LSPs prior to polishing? Rely on the clay to do it or is there something else? And as for that pre-wax cleaner Rasky mentioned, that's only for redoing LSPs when no polishing is involved or AFTER polishing, right? That's not used before a correction, unless I'm mistaken. So what's the best way to remove LSPs before correction, CWG notwithstanding? Surely there are other ways besides CWG and Dawn.
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Correct. I also just listed that one as an example as there are many other out there.



I actually just wash the car using CG CWC at the paint prep ratio and then clay the car. Unless I have trouble polishing (which is very rare) I see no reason to subject the car to harsh chemicals. Typically a polish or compound will obliterate LSP's remaining on the paint almost immediately.





Just my $.02
 
Well, my family doctor is always experimenting with stuff that "oughta work" and has had his findings published in a couple medical journals. So, when my daughter started her teen years and got acne (like her old man had) we went to ask the doc. He recommended a mix of "a little Dawn, a little Listerine, and water" worked like a charm.

Dawn works on the oils, Listerine is like an astringent, and water works to dilute the other two some.



Washing the car with Dawn - when I plan on either polishing or changing LSP's - sure!
 
mikenap said:
To those of you that do ONR washes before correction details, how do you remove LSPs prior to polishing?
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Noting that I'm not a big ONR user...99% of the time I don't find a need to strip LSPs, my polish/compound just cuts right through it. The exception is heavily layered KSG, or *MAYBE* fresh Collinite, and I just use a solvent/PrepWash/etc. to compromise LPSs like that.
 
RaskyR1 said:
Correct. I also just listed that one as an example as there are many other out there.



I actually just wash the car using CG CWC at the paint prep ratio and then clay the car. Unless I have trouble polishing (which is very rare) I see no reason to subject the car to harsh chemicals. Typically a polish or compound will obliterate LSP's remaining on the paint almost immediately.





Just my $.02
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Accumulator said:
Noting that I'm not a big ONR user...99% of the time I don't find a need to strip LSPs, my polish/compound just cuts right through it. The exception is heavily layered KSG, or *MAYBE* fresh Collinite, and I just use a solvent/PrepWash/etc. to compromise LPSs like that.
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Thanks guys. Accumulator, I almost always use ONR on my weekend car so I was wondering if I needed to take any extra steps before polishing. Not sure if any compounding will be necessary since my swirling is pretty minor, but I have an Imola Red BMW, and the paint seems pretty hard so it might still happen.



Rasky, I've got Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer at home. I'm guessing this is a cleaner similar to that CG stuff, right? Thanks again.
 
mikenap said:
.. I almost always use ONR on my weekend car so I was wondering if I needed to take any extra steps before polishing. Not sure if any compounding will be necessary since my swirling is pretty minor, but I have an Imola Red BMW, and the paint seems pretty hard so it might still happen..
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I wouldn't expect the ONR to factor in, and unless you have some super-duper LSP on there anything that'll do even minor correction on hard clear will almost certainly just go right through to the paint.



There seems to be a lot of talk on here lately about ONR leaving a lot of stuff behind, but it seems way overblown to me :think: You don't see Scottwax having any issues...
 
mikenap said:
Thanks guys. Accumulator, I almost always use ONR on my weekend car so I was wondering if I needed to take any extra steps before polishing. Not sure if any compounding will be necessary since my swirling is pretty minor, but I have an Imola Red BMW, and the paint seems pretty hard so it might still happen.



Rasky, I've got Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer at home. I'm guessing this is a cleaner similar to that CG stuff, right? Thanks again.
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Yep. I have actually been using CG EZ-Creme Glaze lately and I have been very happy with it so far. :2thumbs:
 
I just got some EZ-Creme too, just haven't had a chance to use it yet. But I have on several occasions just opened it up to smell that grape Bubbalicious scent. Yummy!
 
mikenap said:
I just got some EZ-Creme too, just haven't had a chance to use it yet. But I have on several occasions just opened it up to smell that grape Bubbalicious scent. Yummy!
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LOL...That's like the first thing I do when I get a new product for the first time! :D
 
mikenap said:
To those of you that do ONR washes before correction details, how do you remove LSPs prior to polishing? Rely on the clay to do it or is there something else? And as for that pre-wax cleaner Rasky mentioned, that's only for redoing LSPs when no polishing is involved or AFTER polishing, right? That's not used before a correction, unless I'm mistaken. So what's the best way to remove LSPs before correction, CWG notwithstanding? Surely there are other ways besides CWG and Dawn.
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Why bother removing LSPs when polishing rips right through them? Look at it this way. If polishing removes clear coat to level swirls, how is an LSP which isn't as hard as the paint going to stand up to it? If the swirls are gone, guaranteed the LSP is gone too.
 
Scottwax- Yeah, heavily layered KSG and fresh 476S are the *only* LSPs that've ever caused polishing issues for me. How often does somebody try to polish through those?



AeroCleanse said:
It maybe effective, but safe is debatable...
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Heh heh, I'm waiting for some actual evidence that would make for a genuine debate ;) People seem to speculate a lot about it causing damage, but that's all I ever see...speculation.



And eh...how often are we talking about doing this? REALLY harsh products like FK1119/AutoInt "A" are tested with unrealistically-frequent usage and *those* products are considered OK. While skin isn't paint or plastic trim, if you try washing your hands once with FK1119 I bet you won't worry much about Dawn!



I keep waiting for somebody to say they washed something a zillion times with Dawn and it caused a problem; I think David Fermani has considered doing this just to prove Dawn is OK.



All that said, NO...I wouldn't go washing an all-original Packard/etc. with Dawn; some stuff dries out enough without any products helping that along. But I wouldn't use a whole lotta different products on old, original cars either.



.. BTW, is it only Dawn, or do other brands work the same way?
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I think part of the Dawn mystique comes from a few things: a) it's effective in various dilutions and in different types of water, b) it's a "clean" detergent that doesn't leave much, if anything, behind, c) similarly, it rinses away well, and d) it's been used for degreasing delicate things (like, well, yeah...baby ducks) without problems.



That said, I've used Lemon Joy, Ajax, and some other "clean rinsing" detergents with OK results. I'd steer clear of detergents that are supposed to "soften skin" ("you're soaking in it.." :chuckle: Remember that one?) or otherwise behave in ways that detergents generally don't.
 
Scottwax said:
Why bother removing LSPs when polishing rips right through them? Look at it this way. If polishing removes clear coat to level swirls, how is an LSP which isn't as hard as the paint going to stand up to it? If the swirls are gone, guaranteed the LSP is gone too.
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Exactly. Which is why I don't bother.
 
It maybe effective, but safe is debatable. BTW, is it only Dawn, or do other brands work the same way?
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I've lost count just how many cars i've painted but it's enough to know that

Dawn is safe to use. It degreases and rinses well. Haven't tried other dish soaps...

If it makes the surface clean enough to eat off of, then it's a good starting point.



If it makes you feel better, just slap a Meguiars sticker on the bottle. And on your

bottle of Rite Aid isopropyl alcohol or your Home Depot mineral spirits. :)
 
Flashtime said:
I've lost count just how many cars i've painted but it's enough to know that

Dawn is safe to use. It degreases and rinses well. Haven't tried other dish soaps...

If it makes the surface clean enough to eat off of, then it's a good starting point.



If it makes you feel better, just slap a Meguiars sticker on the bottle. And on your

bottle of Rite Aid isopropyl alcohol or your Home Depot mineral spirits. :)
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:LOLOL "if it makes you feel better" .... that was freak'n' funny
 
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