damage caused while waxing

A

alanuk

New member
Hi guys need some help and advice.

I buffed the car using a rotary and got most of the tecknique sorted. I did my lexus wrong and have buffer trails in the sun.
But doing my missus Honda CRV DARK BLUE SAME AS MY LEXUS. I sorted bonnet by making sure buffer was flat going from spreading compound to hi speed about 1400 to 1600 then slow down once compound is almost gone slight haze. Using poorboys 3

Then step 2 with poorboys 1 same process again and looks good but some still visable buffer trails.

So i finished down again on a slow speed with auto glym super resin polish which worked a treat looked amazing no trails apart from a couple i couldnt get rid off.

The problem i have from here is sealing and waxing. When i done this i seem to have made the bonnet worse than before massive swirl marks and marring from where iv wipped the wax etc of. Even though i was gentle when rubbing off.

Tools

Rotary
Orange pad with poorboys 3
Black pad poorboys 1
Black pad auto glym super resin polish
Poorboys black hole with foam app pad
Poorboys blue wax

Any ideas why iv put in so much damage once i washed and glazed and waxed
 
I would apply the wax and sealant by hand...you want thin coats of each allow dry time for easier removal.

On both of those using a rotary is to high a speed for them..A PC would / could be a better choice but again that's a hand application for me
 
I am a Rotary Power user and will ever be ! :)

You will find that because of the direct drive and power you have there, it is way too easy to get into trouble - particularly at higher speeds, which I never need to use..

Most of today's products dont really need high speeds to get the desired finish anyway..

I have had great results using lower speeds and put more physical pressure straight down on the pad running flat across the surfaces, than any other technique to correct, and then lighten up on the pressure, and allow the product and pad to start finishing down the paintwork..

Good luck !
Dan F
 
I have to wonder a little.

All the time I've been at this, I have had 0 use for ssr3 (liquid rocks)
 
I think the issue is the AG SRP likely filled/glazed the buffer trails making it appear you removed them. As, I believe that is a non-abrasive or "pure" polish with some fillers. So, waxing probably removed some of the SRP (especially if you did it by machine) - re-exposing the buffer trails.

Honestly, your probably not going to like this - but someone has to say it...If you have to ask - you probably shouldn't be using a rotary. You could have achieved the same results with a DA with no buffer trails. I would invest in a DA, work clean with good technique - and you will not have this problem.
 
Hi thanks for the replys. The reason i used the rotary is the paint is bad so needed sorted.

Wax etc was by hand.

And if i dont practice then how will i be able to use a rotary. Its the buffer trails i am struggling with but getting better.

What speed then should i be using.
Starts at 6 8 10 12 14 16 all way up to 30.

I have my own mobile valeting buisness and untill i get any good im not offerimg this service this is purely my cars and practice.

I also bought a DA buffer now so will be getting into the garage later.

Alan
 

I agree with Swani that the AG SRP filled in all of the buffer trails and defects. And then when you applied the wax you simply removed some of the SRP showing the remaining issues. I would guess that if you clayed the car now and
did a serious decon wash more would appear showing the true condition.

The best option clay and start over with the polishing steps, making sure to double check your results after each step using something like CarPro Eraser to wipe down the panel and remove any polishing oils that are filling.
 
Rotary use is best left to a pro. I had tried my hand at it and needed to use a DA to remove the swirls. A pro, I am told, can finish down with a rotary, but I cannot shed any light on how,

alanuk said:
Hi guys need some help and advice.

I buffed the car using a rotary and got most of the tecknique sorted. I did my lexus wrong and have buffer trails in the sun.
But doing my missus Honda CRV DARK BLUE SAME AS MY LEXUS. I sorted bonnet by making sure buffer was flat going from spreading compound to hi speed about 1400 to 1600 then slow down once compound is almost gone slight haze. Using poorboys 3

Then step 2 with poorboys 1 same process again and looks good but some still visable buffer trails.

So i finished down again on a slow speed with auto glym super resin polish which worked a treat looked amazing no trails apart from a couple i couldnt get rid off.

The problem i have from here is sealing and waxing. When i done this i seem to have made the bonnet worse than before massive swirl marks and marring from where iv wipped the wax etc of. Even though i was gentle when rubbing off.

Tools

Rotary
Orange pad with poorboys 3
Black pad poorboys 1
Black pad auto glym super resin polish
Poorboys black hole with foam app pad
Poorboys blue wax

Any ideas why iv put in so much damage once i washed and glazed and waxed
Click to expand...
 
Alanuk,

I think you just need to practice more with the Rotary.. And really good lighting...

I have a Makita 9227c, and I always start at the lowest speed ( 600) to spread out the product over the surface and get the pad evenly coated (after priming the pad), and then probably go up to 1000 or so and hardly ever more than that..

The compounds made for awhile now, are way different than what our Dad's used in the days of Acrylic Lacquer and Enamel, etc., and do not in my experience, need a buttload of speed (that will quickly dry it out and spread dust all over the work and the crevices and door jambs), but instead seem to react better for me with so much even downward pressure - even enough to slightly slow the pad down, at times, on severely scratched, paintwork..

I use a lot of downward pressure evenly on the pad that is totally flat on the surface, and the downward pressure is just so long, depending on the product, the paint, the correction needed, the pad, and how all these variables (that are always changing) are working together..

Just practice keeping the pad always flat, even downward pressure, overlap the surface, watch carefully what is going on and never take your eyes off if possible, and allow the product and pad to work together and eventually, polish up the finish, and remove for you all or almost all the product from the paintwork on that spot..

Keep your pad/s as clean as possible at all times... I like to take a small white towel and wipe the pad surfaces to clean the pad and observe what is coming off the surface.. You will need a lot of pads to do this because at some point the pad is saturated with dead paint and compound, and needs to get replaced with a new one..

Try not to let it dry out which only causes dusting to go everywhere, and you will have to go back and clean it all up and out of any crevices, etc..

I have worked with dozens of auto body shops in this career and in others, and what I have personally seen happening most by those guys when buffing out a vehicle with a Rotary is this --

They have a honking big, dirty, some type of thin, wool like or wool blend pad, they have the machine cranked up way past 1000 rpm, and they are going over the painted surfaces using an EDGE of the pad instead of using the entire pad flat on the surface ( or as much as the panel will allow)..

They are doing this in not the best lighting, so they really cant see especially on black cars, if they are leaving swirls and stuff, so to them, its shiny, smooth, and that is great..

And then they have the lot boy or someone move the car to get it washed perhaps one last time, and get a coating of some cheap glaze put over the top and the swirls are now somewhat hidden from view, until the next time the car is washed and the glaze falls off..

Everyone will have their own "technique/process" in doing this work with every kind of machine out there today..

There is no You Tube video that will ever be able to substitute being able to watch someone do this in real time with really good lighting, and stopping and going over what just happened, and how to go forward from there...

Just continue to hone your craft, practice, practice, and practice some more..

Have to have patience here and know that this is what separates the workers from the Masters of the craft - whatever the craft..

Good luck ! You can do this !
Dan F
 
I can do just about everything with a rotary and a DA.

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Merlin
 
Thats good merlin but since iv only really started using both im still not used to it. Usee the DA today and takes a hell of alot longer to get it done for the polish to breakdown took some time
 
My newest favorite "Git' 'er Done" machine is the Rupes 21
It is awesome on correction with the safety of a DA.

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Merlin
 
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