DACP and SSR 2.5 not PC friendly

R

RAG

New member
I've used #83 and SSR 2.5 via rotary with great success, however I have issue with these products when used with a PC. My issue: the abbrasives scratch too deep initially. Admittingly, this abbrasive-caused marring is only noticable on black paint...but it nonetheless exists. After spending 10 hours buffing out a black car for a customer today, I decided to do some experimenting since I had a near perfect surface to work with (I want to find an agressive polish suitable for PC use). Both SSR 2.5 and DACP left hundreds of little 1/8" scratches or gashes and it didn't matter how long I worked the polish (I've seen this result a few times before, so I know the issue isn't soft paint). I had to repolish the paint twice with OP to erase these marks, spending way too much time to get back to where I started from :nixweiss



I'm sure others with black paint have noticed this?





I also tried IP - it did not leave these "gashes", but of course dusted like crazy.



Oh yeah - SSR 2 left the same gashes, just not as many of them.



I forgot to try Optimum Compound (OC).
 
I tried both the yellow SFX, the Orange Propel II, then the very mean Meguiars Burgandy pad. I also tried these pads with OP - the Burgandy and Yellow pads left the surface a little hazy, but there was no "gashing." Next time I will try applying these products with a soft polishing pad like the Blue Propel...but then again, what's the point of using an aggressive product with a final finishing pad. Speed was a "6" - I don't (and won't) waste my time with lower speeds.
 
Aggressive cutting pads will leave their own hazing on black paint, regardless of which polish you're using. If you continued to work the polish after the polish had flashed, the lubricating agents would be gone and an orange pad will surely leave some hazing.
 
I used an Orange pad with Optimum today with great success..............SSR 2.5 left some definite hazing, and so did that FK1 303 (Big time, but 1st time user).
 
RAG said:
I tried both the yellow SFX, the Orange Propel II, then the very mean Meguiars Burgandy pad. I also tried these pads with OP - the Burgandy and Yellow pads left the surface a little hazy, but there was no "gashing." Next time I will try applying these products with a soft polishing pad like the Blue Propel...but then again, what's the point of using an aggressive product with a final finishing pad. Speed was a "6" - I don't (and won't) waste my time with lower speeds.
Click to expand...

Use the yellow propel wtih SSR2.5. Even the green. The blue is too mild, while the orange will haze since SSR2.5 does not finish down quick like OP.
 
Just to make sure I'm being clear - I realize that cutting pads will leave some haze, but that was not the issue, as the haze can easily be cleaned up with a final finishing polish and pad. The problem is that the abrasives used in some of these products are not good for DA use, even though they manufactures say they are. I think the problem is that with a rotary the abrasives get worked in one direction, but with a DA the abrasives change direction and sometimes dig in and make small gashes or micro-marring. It took me about 6 very slow passes to correct this.



Thanks Aaron...I realize what you are saying. You basically confirmed my point - if a firm polishing pad and DACP or SSR 2.5 is going to marr the paint to such an extent that I have to perform two additional polishing steps to erase the marring, then I'm steering clear (on anything but black, I have found 1 following polish step to be sufficient). So I guess I'll save these products for the rotary and keep using the PC for final finishing only. And if for some reason I need some cut with the PC, I'll deal with the dust and use IP (which cuts better anyway).
 
I've used SSR2.5 extensively and have never had any trouble with hazing or micromarring "gashes" with the PC. 2.5 is mainly designed for the PC as well. It is simply the best polish I have used as detailer.



I have used a finishing pad (one step more aggressive than final polish) with SSR2.5 on trucks and a Lexus GS with 2.5 and had great results. It may be you are using too much or too little product. Work it into the paint on 4 and then go to 6. I prefer the Lake Country pads for best results. I tend to stay away from the rotary except for all but the most difficult jobs. 2.5 should eliminate most swirls with normal PC use.



Hope that helps...:)
 
I could not ever find the right way of using #83 and was always unsatisfied with the results but I did like #80, I found SFX1 much easier to work with compared to #83
 
No matter what ANYBODY says, I wouldn't use 2.5 with a "finishing" pad. It's a medium duty COMPOUND and barely breaks down with a "polishing" pad. RAG, attempting this will only worsen what you're seeing.



If anyone feels different, please bring a swirled surface, pictures, wipe down and no wax or glaze afterwards. Until then.......
 
Not to steal your thread but I too am having problems with 2.5 with the PC. I learned very quick that a LC orange pad with 2.5 via the PC can tackle many problems but leaves quite a bit of hazing, etc. Can someone give me some tips on this product, how fast to work it, how much to use etc.? It seems to work fast. I'm very familiar using IP and FPII, both I can use very little product and get a good finish from both. Please compare to IP i.e. more product or less, less or more working time, etc. for me to understand. Thanks!
 
I agree, #83 is gummy, especially when used via rotary. I still can't believe how badly it chewed up that black mustang I did.



I've determined I'd rather use a ultra heavy cutting pad (like the burgandy) and Optimum Compound than a meduim pad and 2.5 or #83 - though the cutting will be comparable, the OC will clean up much quicker.



I should try SFX -1, but I'd need to be able to buy it in volume, as I go through a quart or two a week. I've used SFX-2 with good results. Nah, I'll stick with what I know best (rotary) and use the PC for final cleanup when necessary.



Thanks Yall
 
Ive used 2.5 with a polishing pad but never really got the desired results. When I went with an Orange pad, I always was left with a cloudy surface. But I also didnt have the experience I now do, with the orange pad, which I think has a small "break in" period. Ive since moved up to Optimum with the Ornage pad and had wonderful, and very timely results with medium grade scratches and swirls. Ive always followed up with a lesser aggressive pad, usually green, with Optimum just to enhance reflectivity and possible clouding where pad, product, pressures werent equal.

As noted before, 2.5 is a medium abrasive polishing product. If it leaves a little clouding, thats fine also. Your attempting to remove the bigger defects anyway, with this type of product. Thats what it was designed for. Just step product and pad down a notch to remove any clouding.....
 
I'm with you Patrick - when I choose to use a two-step polishing process with the PC only, I really like the Orange propel with Optimum Compound (you probably meant the polish, but they aren't too different) and apply a bunch of pressure to the pad to get good cut action. Second, I use a firm polishing pad (the white SFX is my new favorite for this purpose - sorry patrick) with OP or #9 on black.



Just for the record, I don't mind "cloudiness" when using a medium abrasive - the the deep micromarring seen on black vehicles left by the aforementioned products that bothers me. Well, I'm glad others seem to like these products so much...they just aren't going to work for me, as I just don't think they are on par with Menzerna or Optimum (not even close).
 
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