D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream vs. OPT Poli Seal

[mc01ta]

I think i'm the only one not having favorable results with D151. I am competent and have had great success with optimum line, poorboys and menzerna.



I still can't find a way to use 151 correctly without the finish being hazy. I used a PC and 4 inch and 5.5 inch white LC pads. I primed, made a few passes at speed 5/6 and slowed my passes and pressure down and still no matter what process I used I finished with haziness. This is on a black 2007 pathfinder.



Can you all please provide step by step procedures you are using to get great results please?

 

[Envious Eric]

speed 6 ONLY with the PC...what is everyone doing with speed 3/4/5 on the PC...with any amount of pressure, you just get jiggling, no oscillation! = pointless!!!!



speed 6 with an orange or white pad and you should be golden!

 

[citizen arcane]

toyotaguy I know you have tons of experience w/ polishing and I appreciate your input. When I drop the speed to 3 on the PC I also am using very little pressure, hoping to "jewel" the paint for a pass or two and had good results. Speeds 3-5 w/ moderate pressure should be good for minor corrections,no? I also reduce speed and pressure on rounded or transitions to raised areas as (I've read) the paint is thinner and don't want to compromise these areas. As I only do this a few times a year I don't have the experience of you pros:doh .Please critique, thanks!

 

[SuperBee364]

#151 is more aggressive than Poli-Seal, however it will not finish out hologram free via rotary while Poli-Seal will. Both leave a really nice wet finish when used as directed.

I have, even with a finishing pad.

That's the exact same problem I'm having with 151: holograms like crazy, even on hard paint with a red pad (rotary).



If you want the best possible finish with 151, and you're using it as a true one-step, it finishes out very well with a DA and a no bite pad. 151 has a long enough working time that you can work it a little longer to make up for using a no bite pad. The better finish a no bite pad leaves, IMO, is worth working it a bit longer.

 

[Jason M]

I have good luck with 151 on a yellow megs pad. Yesterday I two stepped a 97 jetta with heavy swirling. First was #86 (SOLO Cream), 1200RPM, 8006 then 151, DA speed 5, 8006. It turned out really good and the 151 took out any Halo's I had left with the 86. I even did two door panels with the yellow wool and SOLO and 151 had no problem removing the wool swirls.



The key to 151 for me has been using a DA first and foremost, using a pad with light cut but not zero cut, and fairly heavy pressure. 151 is so slick when buffing that you can push down pretty hard before the DA stops spinning. I tried some panels when I first got 151 using the 4 heavy followed by 2 light passes. I got a lot more haze that way. I also experimented with a zero cut pad and had hazing issues there as well. When I finally started treating it more like a polish and less like an AIO it worked much better for me.

 

[Bigpikle]

I am about to try #151 for a 1 step on a neighbours car, probably with DA for ease, but have also been using PS. I got terrible holograms with PS using it on a rotary with a Megs polishing pad, so can anyone give me their technique for this eg no. of passes, speed and pressure, as I was obviously getting it horribly wrong

 

[Scottwax]

I use Poli-Seal via rotary with a finishing pad. You pretty much have to stick with a finishing pad with a rotary using pretty much any product to come out hologram free.

 

[nighthawkcoupe]

That's the exact same problem I'm having with 151: holograms like crazy, even on hard paint with a red pad (rotary).



If you want the best possible finish with 151, and you're using it as a true one-step, it finishes out very well with a DA and a no bite pad. 151 has a long enough working time that you can work it a little longer to make up for using a no bite pad. The better finish a no bite pad leaves, IMO, is worth working it a bit longer.

SuperBee, when you say a no bite pad, do you literally mean NO bite? I planned on using a very light cutting pad like a white 5.5" LC pad via PC on my black honda paint with light-moderate swirls. Would I be better off using a finishing pad (red)?



Thanks in advance.

 

[SoCalB6]

I have not used both and do not care for them. They may be great for the beginner or your weekend detailer, or even the blind; however, they are not up to professional standards. Why, you may ask? Industry and environmental standards are changing everyday, this is not a question of "if", its only a matter of time! More and more products are being developed right now, as we speak, containing superior technology all of which will yield far greater results then conventional outdated products people use on here. You can save yourself now and PM me for details on these elite snake oil derived products, or you could be left behind in the stone age with the rest of the board. PM me and I will share with you why I have adapted the EcO-Be$t model!



Na, im kidding :laugh:



I haven't used 151, but I could tell you that Poli-Seal is a great product. I can finish hologram free with it via rotary and get some pretty decent correction for an AIO. Also, if you are going to do an LSP anyway, try PowerFinish 203.

 

[-Longhorn-]

if your worried about holograms, just use do a 1 step with the PC and use a more aggressive pad. Problem solved.

Yep I did a Benz SL500 this weekend with a UDM, LC Orange pad and Poli-seal. Amazing correction but a little holograming so I went over with a white pad and poorboys black hole glaze and all was removed then topped with PS.

 

[Frito Bandito]

Yep I did a Benz SL500 this weekend with a UDM, LC Orange pad and Poli-seal. Amazing correction but a little holograming so I went over with a white pad and poorboys black hole glaze and all was removed then topped with PS.

How did you get holograms with a UDM?

 

[Bigpikle]

I use Poli-Seal via rotary with a finishing pad. You pretty much have to stick with a finishing pad with a rotary using pretty much any product to come out hologram free.

thanks Scott



I was thinking polishing pad to make the most of the light abrasives - I'll try some softer pads next time. Maybe 3M black will do it for me

 

[SuperBee364]

SuperBee, when you say a no bite pad, do you literally mean NO bite? I planned on using a very light cutting pad like a white 5.5" LC pad via PC on my black honda paint with light-moderate swirls. Would I be better off using a finishing pad (red)?



Thanks in advance.

Yeah, I sure do. Any bite that a pad has decreases the amount of gloss proportional to it's bite. LC's yellow foam pad leaves a nightmare behind, and it's their most aggressive pad. This scales down with the aggressiveness of the pad. White is their least aggressive pad, and finishes out OK (especially on harder paints), but if you want the absolute best finish you can get, leave the cutting to the polish, and use a no bite pad. That way, the finish you get is the polish's doing, not the pad; you'll finish out to the best of the pollish's ability to do so, assuming you are using it correctly.

I have not used both and do not care for them. They may be great for the beginner or your weekend detailer, or even the blind; however, they are not up to professional standards. Why, you may ask? Industry and environmental standards are changing everyday, this is not a question of "if", its only a matter of time! More and more products are being developed right now, as we speak, containing superior technology all of which will yield far greater results then conventional outdated products people use on here. You can save yourself now and PM me for details on these elite snake oil derived products, or you could be left behind in the stone age with the rest of the board. PM me and I will share with you why I have adapted the EcO-Be$t model!



Na, im kidding :laugh:



I haven't used 151, but I could tell you that Poli-Seal is a great product. I can finish hologram free with it via rotary and get some pretty decent correction for an AIO. Also, if you are going to do an LSP anyway, try PowerFinish 203.

Whew, for a minute there i thought Relaited had come back to haunt us!

 

[02zx9r]

:har: :bat

 

[springer1521]

hey so what kind of pad would i be looking at getting if i already had some poli seal and a flex? i have not heard any comments and about pad combos with a flex and poli seal or D151..



anyone know bout that??

 

[nighthawkcoupe]

Yeah, I sure do. Any bite that a pad has decreases the amount of gloss proportional to it's bite. LC's yellow foam pad leaves a nightmare behind, and it's their most aggressive pad. This scales down with the aggressiveness of the pad. White is their least aggressive pad, and finishes out OK (especially on harder paints), but if you want the absolute best finish you can get, leave the cutting to the polish, and use a no bite pad. That way, the finish you get is the polish's doing, not the pad; you'll finish out to the best of the pollish's ability to do so, assuming you are using it correctly.

Thanks! So would you suggest I do one pass with the white pads to remove the swirls then go over with a red to improve the finish? Or should I just use red and go for more passes?

 

[gofastman]

Yeah, I sure do. Any bite that a pad has decreases the amount of gloss proportional to it's bite. LC's yellow foam pad leaves a nightmare behind, and it's their most aggressive pad. This scales down with the aggressiveness of the pad. White is their least aggressive pad, and finishes out OK (especially on harder paints), but if you want the absolute best finish you can get, leave the cutting to the polish, and use a no bite pad. That way, the finish you get is the polish's doing, not the pad; you'll finish out to the best of the pollish's ability to do so, assuming you are using it correctly.







Whew, for a minute there i thought Relaited had come back to haunt us!

I think your info is slightly outdated, or maybe im just not reading into the post properly



Also is a LC CCS red pad gonna finish noticably better than a blue one on eather a PC or rotary?

 

[imported_sal3291]

Yeah, I sure do. Any bite that a pad has decreases the amount of gloss proportional to it's bite. LC's yellow foam pad leaves a nightmare behind, and it's their most aggressive pad. This scales down with the aggressiveness of the pad. White is their least aggressive pad, and finishes out OK (especially on harder paints), but if you want the absolute best finish you can get, leave the cutting to the polish, and use a no bite pad. That way, the finish you get is the polish's doing, not the pad; you'll finish out to the best of the pollish's ability to do so, assuming you are using it correctly.

Supe do you do this with all Polishes or just with products like D 151? Does this work with a PC or just a Rotary?

 

[SuperBee364]

Thanks! So would you suggest I do one pass with the white pads to remove the swirls then go over with a red to improve the finish? Or should I just use red and go for more passes?

It depends on the paint, really. That's kind of a cop out, I know, but it really does depend. Just remember that in order to get the best finish out of whatever polish you are *finishing* with, you should use a no bite pad. You can get away with using a pad with some bite to it on harder clear coats, but even then you're limiting yourself to the finish the *pad* can provide and not the polish.

I think your info is slightly outdated, or maybe im just not reading into the post properly



Also is a LC CCS red pad gonna finish noticably better than a blue one on eather a PC or rotary?

Isn't yellow LC's most aggressive foam still? I know they have that new purple foam Kompressor pad, but in their standard line up, I thought yellow was still their most aggressive cutting foam.



I still don't know why LC has so many different colors for what feels to me like the same foam: Blue/Grey/Black/Red all feel like zero cut pads to me. :nixweiss

Supe do you do this with all Polishes or just with products like D 151? Does this work with a PC or just a Rotary?

When I'm compounding, I'lll usually pick a compound and then vary the pad as needed to get the desired cut. But when I'm finishing, I stick with a no bite pad and vary the polish, both with the rotary and PC. If I have a pretty hard clear with a lot of stuff left in the paint to clean up, I'll still use a zero bite pad, but up the polish to, say, PO106FF. If I have a hard clear and little to no defects left in the paint, then I'll use a zero bite pad with PO85RD. On soft clears with little defects left, zero bite pad with Final Polish II. Using this method, I'm always able to finish down as well as the polish will allow, instead of the pad.



Light polishing pads (like LC's white foam) can easily leave holograms behind, regardless of the polish used, because the pad itself has some inherent cutting action to it. You increase your odds of finishing out holo-free if you use a pad that doesn't add any cutting at all.

 

[SoCalB6]

Whew, for a minute there i thought Relaited had come back to haunt us!

:rofl Na man, he is done...:woohoo: