Cyclo - not doing as much as I expected

J

jdthompson

New member
I decided to try the Biltema (European variable speed Cyclo clone) on a section of the bonnet of my current car (1999 Saab 93 in Cosmic Blue).



I don't have pictures but I would say the paint is moderately swirled.



I taped off an area, and used Menzerna 106FF with the Green Cyclo pads.



I used a fair amount of 106FF at first to ensure the entire pad area had a covering. I started off on speed 1 to spread the polish about, then moved up to speed 4 and made a couple of slow (around an inch a second) passes holding the Biltema at roughly a 45 degree angle and making sort of a "figure 8" motion until the polish seemed to turn powdery.



It's had very little impact on the swirls, which has surprised me.



I know it's hard to tell from a description, but does it sound like I need to be altering the speed, the time spent, the movement, the pressure, or what exactly?



I've brought the Biltema for a new Porsche that I have on order, so hopefully I'll never be tacking this sort of problem across an entire car for anything other than practice, but even though I'm sure it's me, I expected better results tbh.



TIA,

Paul
 
I'm not familiar with that particular machine, but I'll address this as if it were a Cyclo. I'm not familiar with that polish either, except for what I've read about it here at Autopia (I'll base my comments on that reading, but I wanted to note that I don't have first-hand experience with it).



First, note that it's no rotary, there *is* a limit to what you can expect (though that limit is higher than with some other machines I could mention ;) ).



The Cyclo green pads can be too mild for many correction-type jobs (and conversely they can be too aggressive for the final polish on some paints). You might oughta try orange (light cutting) or yellow (cutting) pads and then use the green ones to eliminate any micromarring (from the aggressive pads).



That polish might be too fine for what you're trying to correct. Maybe a more aggressive polish, followed by the 106FF (again, to eliminate micromarring from the aggressive work).



You can apply a good bit of pressure but be a little careful doing that with aggressive pads.



I hold the Cyclo perpendicular to the surface being worked; I keep it flat.



I don't work polishes until they're dry, but rather until they're *almost* dry.



Your speed of movement sounds OK, but you can try holding it in one place for a while and see what that does (again, it's not a rotary, but do be a little careful doing this).



Hope something in the above was helpful.
 
Thanks Accumulator.



To all intents the Biltema is a Cyclo but in an ABS plastic casing, there may be other differences but I'm not sure what they are.



I based my decision to go with the Menzerna stuff on the fact that I've a new car on order, so new paint with the odd mark/swirl from time to time is what I would be using it on. I guess what you say makes sense as the 106FF isn't supposed to be particularly abrasive is it, it's more of a finishing type of polish.



I do have a set of the Orange cyclo pads but I thought I'd get some opinions before trying them, which I may do right now :)



The main thing is it sounds like I'm not doing anything fundamentally wrong in the way I'm using the machine - I probably just see the photo's on here from guys who've done this for years so I expect miracles :)



thanks,

Paul
 
hutchingsp said:
The main thing is it sounds like I'm not doing anything fundamentally wrong in the way I'm using the machine - I probably just see the photo's on here from guys who've done this for years so I expect miracles :)
Click to expand...



Nah, you're not doing anything wrong. There's just a bit of a learning curve but IMO it's nice and steep so you'll be all acclimated in no time.



Heh heh, I know what you mean about this site leading to certain expectations! IMO we really do have to keep things realistic, or at least sensible...
 
I've just been using the orange cyclo pads with the 106FF.



Result :)



I've only given it a quick going over on a small section, but it's made a big impact in the swirls that are visible. I'm not planning on doing the entire car, but it's given me a bit more confidence that I have the right tools for the job and it's now a case of learning how to use them.



I never realise quite what a difference different pads would make. More specifically, I didn't expect to be able to feel the more aggressive pads "grab" the paint, it's hard to explain but I'm sure people will know what I'm trying to describe.



I'm sure I'll get used to this but I still find myself panicking that I'm going to burn/damage my paint. I suppose that will go the more I use the thing but for now that alone is probably stopping me using higher speeds and more pressure etc.



Paul
 
Paul-yes, the more aggressive pads do noticably have more feel or bite with the Cyclo. I would up the aggressiveness of the polish before the pad though as some of the more aggressive pads are more likely to cause hazing than a stronger polish. If 106 and the orange pad is working for you though, stick with it.



Once you get the hang of a dual head polisher, you will really like it. :)
 
Cheers Scott, "bite" that's the word I was looking for.



I'm hoping when the Porsche shows up that the dealers won't screw it up and I'll be alright with Carlack and Collinite, but the Biltema polishers are so cheap ($50 or so) it seemed worth having one in the arsenal.



I may have a go at the rest of the Saab now that I feel I've got somewhere on a small area. I keep going back to it but it's getting my head around the "you aren't going to go through the paint" that seems to be the biggest obstacle :)
 
Yeah that's a natural instinct. Keep in mind that many places buff out cars with wool pads/Meguiars #85/1500rpms on a hi-speed and don't go through the paint, so you should be *well* in the safety zone.
 
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