Current setup: Not 'cutting"' it

W

whiteWRX

New member
As the tittle suggests,

My aresenal does not cut it. Currently I'm using a PC with LC 7.5" Orange and IP, followed by a LC 7.5" green with FPII. On Black it still leaves a bunch of swirls. So I will step it up by getting a rotary. My questions are:

1) Is the Hitachi a good unit?

2) What pads to use - 8.5"? Is orange much more aggresive when using the rotary vs. the PC?(i.e. what are the easiest/safest to work with)

3) Better polish - I've been a little disapointed with the Menzerna since it stains plastic trim like crazy. Is Optimum better. is Zpc any good for a replacement to the Menzerna products mentioned

4)Also what is good for removing heavy tar and road paint off textured plastic trim and from inside the wheel wells?



Thanx
 
maybe try smaller pads and working a smaller area



i just ordered the hitachi based on peoples reviews on it



rotary will build up more heat, therefore cut faster, more potential to burn the paint, but just be careful



menzerna is a great line up, all polishes will stain trim, so maybe just try to tape off the trim to save yourself the steps of cleaning it after, optimum stains too - i tried it on my bedliner and now I have to clean that up - better on my truck than a customers....



I dont care for the zaino line after using menzerna and optimum....not wortht the price since menzerna is expensive but yield better result IN MY EXPERIENCES
 
Whoa whoa whoa.. first off there's no need to jump to a rotary just yet.



In your situation, you have quite a bit of alternatives:



1) Step up to a more aggressive polish. (Optimum OHC)

2) Smaller pads may also help (May need input from more experienced guys here)

3) Do more passes.



The above two assumes that your technique is up to par. (Moving slowly, applying pressure)



And with regards to your questions with the rotary:

From what I've seen with other's works, they can acheive the same level of cut as a PC from a less aggresive pad or polish.



Best regards!
 
try menzerna PG, RMG, ,and OP mix....endless working time, and cut of PG....that is my go to product now for heavily defected paints....
 
wow thanks for the responces,

I forgot to mention I've used the 5.5" low profile pads to, still not a huge difference. The car in question is a black bmw 645 so the clearcoat is ultra soft. Ideally, I would like to use the rotary to save a little time. On the last detail, I went over the car with the 5.5" and IP at speed 5 with a decent amount of pressure, then moved to a 7.5 orange as above. The big prob is someone did a really bad job washing it so it looks like it had 1500 grit sand paper dragged across it :eek:

Any ways I will likely get the rotary, so whats a good pad combo?
 
whiteWRX said:
wow thanks for the responces,

I forgot to mention I've used the 5.5" low profile pads to, still not a huge difference. The car in question is a black bmw 645 so the clearcoat is ultra soft. Ideally, I would like to use the rotary to save a little time. On the last detail, I went over the car with the 5.5" and IP at speed 5 with a decent amount of pressure, then moved to a 7.5 orange as above. The big prob is someone did a really bad job washing it so it looks like it had 1500 grit sand paper dragged across it :eek:

Any ways I will likely get the rotary, so whats a good pad combo?
Click to expand...



First of all, if the clearcoat is "ultra soft" then sure don't need a rotary do you! Look at what type of marring is left behind after you polish with say the orange pad and IP. If you are removing the heavier swirls but lighter ones remain, then you will need a less aggressive pad and polish to remove what the orange pad has made. If the paint is as soft as you say, you will need to use a finishing pad and FPII. My black 03 Jetta has to be finished with a finishing pad and SSR1 or MP otherwise marring remains. If you need to remove heavy marring try SSR3 with a 6" cutting pad(this is a very aggressive combo). If that doesn't do it, the marring may be too deep to correct.
 
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