CQuartz vs. C1 vs. Opti-Coat: Initial findings and observations from AutoLavish

I think we may see a product top these. Nitro Seal is to be released soon, and I have a feeling it is going to be Awesome!!! Good early reports from testors on this site. Good report !!!
 
MDRX8 said:
I think we may see a product top these. Nitro Seal is to be released soon, and I have a feeling it is going to be Awesome!!! Good early reports from testors on this site. Good report !!!
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Is Nitro Seal a coating like these?
 
Chris@Optimum said:
I had a conversation with Dr. G about the problems you guys experienced with Opti-Coat and thought I would share some of his thoughts in case you'd like to re-do your Opti Coat test vehicle. First he made the distinction that Opti Coat is a "clear coat" and not a Nano Coating. Like any true "coating" it should be wiped on or sprayed on. There is no buffing of a coating or wiping any residue off after application! The example he gave was that no painter would apply clear coat and then go back and touch it prior to curing. He also feels that the reason you are not getting great beading or slickness from Opti-Coat is because of the application method you described and did not have a smooth surface because of it. To clarify the instructions for Opti Coat application, there is NO mention to wait 10 minutes and then wipe down the coating. The instructions state to remove any excess product (not a full wipe down, but just evening out) within the first 10 minutes before the coating is cured/cross-linked. Ideally, you should do that within the first 30 seconds. So if you wait 10 minutes and then they try to wipe a semi hardened resin, of course it will be tacky and will not form leveled finish! Additionally the marring on a soft clear comes from application via machine, not the product. From what I gathered, there is more difference in the products you compared than just application. With the flashing and hazing you that you had to keep going over with the Quartz products, it seems they are more of a improved version of a sealant vs. a true permanent coating. I hope this information helps and look forward to seeing your findings with more testing.



I don't mean to hijack, but I feel this is relevant. This is from Dr. G of Optimum when I asked him about nano coatings:



"Opti-Coat is not a nano particle, it is rather a pre-polymer that cross links and forms a continuous film on the surfaces it is applied to similar to a single component isocyanate that forms a clear coat finish. Opti-Coat also reacts with the substrate that it is applied to so it will not delaminate. Nano particles are sub micron particles that are created by controlled reactions or by breaking down larger particles. They do not react or form bonds. The application of Opti-Coat takes less than 10 minutes for a full size car, if it is done correctly. It applies just like Opti-Seal, however, if there is over application, you have to remove the excess within the first 10 minutes (just leveling with the applicator-CT). Otherwise, once it cures, you have to buff off the excess (machine polishing-CT). Most people apply this product to one panel at a time and check for any unevenness before moving to the next section. As far as the durability, it is similar to urethane clears. It will not wash away or break down, however, you can polish it over time ! The hardness starts at 6-7 but will increase over time to 9H as it is exposed to heat.



Opti-Coat is based on a resin pre-polymer that we manufacture and once it is applied, it cross links and reacts with urethane and other clear coat paints. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive coating in use. This coating like a regular clear coat lasts indefinitely unless it is removed by polishing, sanding, or paint removers.



The coating will get to a hardness of 9H after it is fully cured.The solvents used in Opti-Coat are also used in hand lotions and other cosmetic products. The polymers, however, are very reactive and should be used with caution and that is one of the reasons we only offer it to professional detailers."
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This great information..especially that OC goes from Mohs 6 to 9 in the heat. :xyxthumbs



I also agree (from my own experience) that the OP applied and wiped OC incorrectly. This would definitely compromise the OC coating. However, I appreciate the time and effort he put into this comparison. :)
 
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that NS is not a coating. Tell me if I'm wrong, but my definition of a coating is a protective treatment that is permanant in nature. From my research I'd say OC is the only product in this thread that qualifies to that description? I stand corrected if I'm incorrect?
 
LOL you just linked him to his own thread.



But yeah David its a sealant. Wonder since 3D is trying really hard at trying to be the green people if they'll introduce a product that's similar to OC/Aquartz/Cquartz/C1.
 
I pinged Sal (of Zaino fame) about coatings, he dissed them pretty hard saying they were hype. I also asked if he had one coming out, no comment other than the "I'm always working on new products"
 
yakky said:
I pinged Sal (of Zaino fame) about coatings, he dissed them pretty hard saying they were hype. I also asked if he had one coming out, no comment other than the "I'm always working on new products"
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Ummm is that why they haven't put out any new products since Clear Seal in February 2007??
 
jmsc said:
yakky:



Curious as to what reasons did Sal give for believing that coatings are just hype?
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He said they've been around for 10 years and he's not impressed with what they promise or how they deliver. He said they still aren't resistant to bird dropping and other contaminants. He also said they don't build film thickness as stated by the manufacturers.
 
Alfisti said:
Zaino isn't strong on bird-bombs either from all reports. :nervous:
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Yep. I found his response rather crotchety and full of irony. To be honest, I don't exactly believe he's making his own stuff, he's so guarded about his products and background that it's less than reassuring. That said, I do see his point about these coatings. As good as they bead and release dirt, I've already seen threads complaining about water spots and etching.
 
I just read the first post in this thread, but unfortunately I dont' feel like I know anything more about these products than I did before reading it.



If you're going to review a product, you need to have a consistent environment, consistent material, consistent color car, consistent application process, and consistent followup.



That's the only way you can determine if there is a difference in the results.



You've got cars of different colors, being treated in very different room temperatures, using extremely different application techniques, not following directions, doing your own thing, leaving one car out in the rain all night and the other to fully cure inside, etc. No comparison on the results can be made.



I am not clear why any of the tests were done on silver.



Im honestly not sure what to conclude from all that effort you put in.



Bummed out because I have really been trying to decide which product is best to use.
 
DetailBurger said:
I just read the first post in this thread, but unfortunately I dont' feel like I know anything more about these products than I did before reading it.



If you're going to review a product, you need to have a consistent environment, consistent material, consistent color car, consistent application process, and consistent followup.



That's the only way you can determine if there is a difference in the results.



You've got cars of different colors, being treated in very different room temperatures, using extremely different application techniques, not following directions, doing your own thing, leaving one car out in the rain all night and the other to fully cure inside, etc. No comparison on the results can be made.



I am not clear why any of the tests were done on silver.



Im honestly not sure what to conclude from all that effort you put in.



Bummed out because I have really been trying to decide which product is best to use.
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Opti Coat is a polymer coating that is permanent. It is adding another layer of clear coat to your vehicle that is much more durable than the factory clear. It sheds dirt and water as well as sealants or waxes as well. It is not a nano coating or a sealant. It is in a totally different class of coating than C Quartz or C1. It seems that they did not apply the Opti Coat properly in their test, either. Opti Coat is meant to be applied, evened out with foam applicator before it sets up, and then left to cure without being touched. No buffing involved. No wiping off of excess after application. You wouldn't wipe off excess opti coat with a towel just like you wouldn't wipe off clear coat that you sprayed on with a towel.



C Quartz and C1 only last a year or two, while Opti Coat basically lasts the" life" of the vehicle, in that it doesn't degrade by sun exposure, or by washing.

Also, Opti Coat hardens to a hardness of 9H, which I believe is a level of pencil hardness, and is not the same as a 9 on the Moh's scale.
 
I'd love confirmation on the 9h thing (lead, or moh). OC seems pretty solid to me, then again like most autopians im pretty diligent when washing. At first I thought there was no way it could be the pencil lead scale, but I suppose it could be, since it'd be hard to scratch a hard piece of lead with a microfiber. :)
 
Picus said:
I'd love confirmation on the 9h thing (lead, or moh). OC seems pretty solid to me, then again like most autopians im pretty diligent when washing. At first I thought there was no way it could be the pencil lead scale, but I suppose it could be, since it'd be hard to scratch a hard piece of lead with a microfiber. :)
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I once polished a set of rocker arms with a sharpening stone. A file wouldn't scratch them. Sandpaper wouldn't scratch them. Only a stone after 20 minutes of rubbing would give any significant results. A hardened iron rocker arm is not as hard as a diamond, which is a 10 on the Moh's scale.





From the Wikipedia: Mohs scale of mineral hardness - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



"On the Mohs scale, graphite (a principal constituent of pencil "lead") has a hardness of 1.5; a fingernail, 2.2–2.5; a copper penny, 3.2–3.5; a pocketknife 5.1; a knife blade, 5.5; window glass plate, 5.5; and a steel file, 6.5.[9] A streak plate (unglazed porcelain) has a hardness of 7.0. Using these ordinary materials of known hardness can be a simple way to approximate the position of a mineral on the scale.[1]"



A knife blade has a hardness of 5.5 on the Moh's scale. I really doubt that Opti Coat could be a 9.
 
Blackthornone said:
I once polished a set of rocker arms with a sharpening stone. A file wouldn't scratch them. Sandpaper wouldn't scratch them. Only a stone after 20 minutes of rubbing would give any significant results. A hardened iron rocker arm is not as hard as a diamond, which is a 10 on the Moh's scale.





From the Wikipedia: Mohs scale of mineral hardness - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia



"On the Mohs scale, graphite (a principal constituent of pencil "lead") has a hardness of 1.5; a fingernail, 2.2–2.5; a copper penny, 3.2–3.5; a pocketknife 5.1; a knife blade, 5.5; window glass plate, 5.5; and a steel file, 6.5.[9] A streak plate (unglazed porcelain) has a hardness of 7.0. Using these ordinary materials of known hardness can be a simple way to approximate the position of a mineral on the scale.[1]"



A knife blade has a hardness of 5.5 on the Moh's scale. I really doubt that Opti Coat could be a 9.
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The hardness for a urethane is 9H (pencil hardness not Mohs) and the same hardness is claimed for most paint surface applied coating products



There is an explanation here - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-detailing/136405-paint-density-hardness.html
 
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