CQuartz Beta testing
- Thread starter sheveal
- Start date
forrest@mothers
Serious no BS kinda guy
Try a local automotive paint store that stocks or can get 3M. They make rolls of various thicknesses and lengths. I use the 85804, which is 6 mils thick, 4" wide and 40 yards long. I go through about 6 rolls a year traveling with the cars.
If you need the part #'s e-mail or PM me.
If you need the part #'s e-mail or PM me.
How hard do you guys find it is to install the bulk material?
I tried contacting a couple of local installers, but they were cost prohibitive. I'd like to throw some in just a few problem places (door sills, wheel well). Not enough to merit paying someone $400+ to have it installed.
I tried contacting a couple of local installers, but they were cost prohibitive. I'd like to throw some in just a few problem places (door sills, wheel well). Not enough to merit paying someone $400+ to have it installed.
forrest@mothers
Serious no BS kinda guy
JohnN - I use it on the nose of the cars, and around wheelwells. I'm not concerned about the appearance, I only want it for protection while driving.
I peel it off each night and reapply in the morning if I wash the car, otherwise it stays on until I get where I'm going, then I peel it off. So, I don't care about bubbles, creases or where the tape ends.
I peel it off each night and reapply in the morning if I wash the car, otherwise it stays on until I get where I'm going, then I peel it off. So, I don't care about bubbles, creases or where the tape ends.
Glossy McGlosserton
New member
Forrest,
So it's that easy to remove and apply? You don't go through the slip solution>alcohol solution stuff? And you don't need to heat it up to remove it?
How does the straight 4" strip do on the nose, which I would guess is not straight?
Thanks.
So it's that easy to remove and apply? You don't go through the slip solution>alcohol solution stuff? And you don't need to heat it up to remove it?
How does the straight 4" strip do on the nose, which I would guess is not straight?
Thanks.
forrest@mothers
Serious no BS kinda guy
Sherri - it's amazing stuff - it peels off clean, without residue.
I only use it to protect the painted areas from rock chips, so I don't care what it looks like - just that when I get there, there are no chips in the paint.
I cut into the approximate length, peel a corner back and apply it to the paint, peeling the back downward and towards me as I press the film down to the paint.
I don't use alcohol or anything else as a prep - just apply to a clean dry surface. It peels right off without problems. The only removal problems I've ever had were on a 63 Nova SS Convertible - it left residue on the stainless trim at the front of the hood.
It's stayed on in rain, and at 168 mph without any problems. Rather expensive, but better than paint work.
I know I'm not using it in the proper manner, but for what I want, it does an excellent job.
I only use it to protect the painted areas from rock chips, so I don't care what it looks like - just that when I get there, there are no chips in the paint.
I cut into the approximate length, peel a corner back and apply it to the paint, peeling the back downward and towards me as I press the film down to the paint.
I don't use alcohol or anything else as a prep - just apply to a clean dry surface. It peels right off without problems. The only removal problems I've ever had were on a 63 Nova SS Convertible - it left residue on the stainless trim at the front of the hood.
It's stayed on in rain, and at 168 mph without any problems. Rather expensive, but better than paint work.
I know I'm not using it in the proper manner, but for what I want, it does an excellent job.
Good for you Forrest. Most people on this board would have a major stroke with a paint protection film on our cars that showed bubbles, wrinkles or other imperfections.
As a side note, I had the guys from Xpel in San Antonio put on some X-Pel on the hood and front bumper. They did a decent job but did a horrible job on both side mirror housings. It was terrible. There was an awful looking line in both of them. I had them do it again twice. Even then I was not completely happy with the appearance. And these guys are the professionals who apply this stuff for a living.
As a side note, I had the guys from Xpel in San Antonio put on some X-Pel on the hood and front bumper. They did a decent job but did a horrible job on both side mirror housings. It was terrible. There was an awful looking line in both of them. I had them do it again twice. Even then I was not completely happy with the appearance. And these guys are the professionals who apply this stuff for a living.
imported_richy
New member
I shot a short video to demonstrate how little water is left after sheeting with Cquartz. I will READILY ADMIT I am usually too damned lazy to unravel the hose to do this and most of the time just rinse with the powerwasher. I proved to myself today that using the sheeting method is worth it and made me not be so lazy. All I had to do was blot the surface afterward. The ww was barely wet.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqTsM6N4U1g
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqTsM6N4U1g
bmw5541
New member
Nicely done Richy.
It seems to me that the industry is moving quickly to these new coating products like Cquartz and Optibond.
It seems to me that the industry is moving quickly to these new coating products like Cquartz and Optibond.
imported_richy
New member
Yes it does Barry; and there's the C1 by Gtechniq as well. I haven't had the chance to play with that one yet. They are a bit different to use, but like any new product, once you have the hang of it, you're golden. CQ needs to get more distributors as does Gtechniq b/c there is only one place to buy each of those products that I know of for the US. One is in New York and the other Hawaii. As long as OC is so restrictive to buy, their market will be very limited. I like CQ better. I did a jet ski with bad water marks and sealed it with OC and it was not slick at all. The CQ has it beat in my opinion. I can PM you the link to the jet ski if you want to see the job. I posted it at L2D.
bmw5541
New member
Richy,
I would love to see it. If you can PM me with the link, that would be great.
Thanks.
imported_rwright
New member
You have a pm
imported_richy
New member
Marc, you'll be the first that I know to do a comparison with all three. I would love to hear your thoughts on all three. It'll be cool to compare notes on your findings vs mine on the CQ vs OC. I have found a few differences but I'll leave it at that till you play with it. Make sure you do a 90/10 90% IPA to 10% Dawn or other highly alkaline soap mix to clean the paint prior to CQ. There are videos on youtube showing the application process. Let me know if you have any questions.
Barry, sounds like Richard took care of your request. Thanks Richard!
bmw5541
New member
I got it. Thanks Richard.
That was some nice work on the Jet Ski. It was hard to tell from the pics that it wasn't slick, but it sure did look good.
If you don't mind me asking, what does the CQ cost, and is it readily available?
Sounds great Richy. With products like this, I completely agree that the application is of the highest importance. We applied Opti-Coat to our work vehicle and didn't do a good job buffing off on an area of the chrome bumper. The next day it was looking hazy/cloudy, so Jacob took some mineral spirits to it to remove it so he could reapply it to the finish. To say the least, 20 minutes later it still didn't come off!
The side by side comparisons have us real excited and will likely be done on some black cars in order to show EVERYTHING. I'll surely try to keep posting on any findings I have.
imported_RaskyR1
New member
Nice!
I'm still waiting for an open weekend to apply the CQuartz to my wife's car so that I can compare it to OC.
imported_richy
New member
Help me to convince Jack to carry this line. There are 4 great products that I will not be without now. He needs to be on the cutting edge here and not let some other big organization scoop the line.