I am 79 years old....still love to make my car look great....years ago all I used was polish and wax....I have a 2019 white camry early this year I clayed my car and put put on wolfgang SI02 sealant...the car looks good...now it seems ceramic coating is what people are doing...now if I want to put on a ceramic coating...as far as I know I have to use clay or whatever to get rid of the sealant...and start over...what can I use to apply a coating ....a spray...don`t want to spend a whole lot of money
confused
- Thread starter maurofc70
- Start date
tom p.
Active member
Mauro, you might look at a product like CQuartz Lite. Easy to work with and you get a big bottle (several cars) to work with. However, it`s not a spray product.Coatings are typically removed by time or mechanical polishing.
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
Since we have never met, Welcome to the Forum, Maurofc70 --
This is what I have used for years to apply coatings, and it has always worked great for me --
https://www.autopia-carcare.com/tuf-shine-applicator.html#.Xx9RIFWpH3g This sponge is a very tight foam and does not absorb and hold liquids easily..
https://www.autopia-carcare.com/carpro-suede-cloths.html#.Xx9RvVWpH3g
You put the suede cloth over the sponge, overlap if necessary to make it tight, then, carefully apply your coating to 1 edge and wipe in straight lines over the vehicle.. You need good lighting to see where the coating is on the vehicle, and overlap that pass you just did and apply the next one..
Depending on the coating, you have to wait a certain amount of time, and then, using a very soft microfiber towel, carefully and lightly go over the coating passes you just did,to level them all off and make them even..
If you spot where the coating is not perfectly smooth and flat, you want to carefully wipe that spot/area away, so it is all level and evenly applied, before the coating sets up and cannot be touched until it dries..
There may some more preparation needed to get your paint ready for the coating process also.. Depends on what you did already, etc..
Last I checked coatings are not inexpensive, so good luck with that part too !
Dan F
SGM2008
New member
The Wolfgang SIO2 Sealant is “easy as pie” to apply, and it looks great. Unless you’re dying to enter the coating world, I’d stick with the sealant.
The Guz
Mike
I might get some flack for for this but look into the Adams spray coating. Super easy to work with. Hard to get this one wrong.
wannafbody
wannafbody
Wolfgang makes a SIO2 spray topper which should work over your Wolfgang sealant. Spray and wipe. I don`t think you really need a coating for basic protection.
Coatings=crack
Active member
Gyeon Cancoat is awesome. I also appied CQuartz UK 3 as my first coating and it was just fine. I had 2 panels i had to redo because of high spots but my fault due to bad lighting.
I would give Adams spray graphene coating a look.
As for applying I would give Autofiber saver applications apply. Universally loved by all who use
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I would give Adams spray graphene coating a look.
As for applying I would give Autofiber saver applications apply. Universally loved by all who use
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Desertnate
Active member
Not only is it really easy to apply, but from what I`ve experienced the water behavior is very similar (if not identical) and the look is just as good, if not better. The only down side is it won`t last years like a coating. If you`re happy with what you have now and don`t want to add the cost and additional work of a coating, I`d stick with what you have.
If nothing else, since you`ve already got the sealant on there let it run it`s course and once its worn out you can then worry about whether or not to coat the car.
Coatings=crack
Active member
Cancoat is $15 more for a bottle. It will last alot longer but has less applications. It literally is spray and wipe on wipe off. Cost will vary how you perceive it but work will be about same and less if you look at applications over two years. Anyone who can apply a sealant can apply cancoat
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Tc99m
Member
I second this statement. The only downside is a strong chemical smell.
Dan
Well-known member
Duragloss 101 isn`t a true polish. It is an all in one paint cleaner and wax/sealant. You`ll want to switch out for a more newbie friendly polish. Are you planning on doing this by hand or machine?
The Guz
Mike
I have seen your post over on Autogeek and I will post the same thing here. I understand you are looking to chemically remove any left over sealant/wax. The best way to remove it is to invest in an abrasive polish. There are plenty of options here. That will clean the paint of any remaining sealant/wax as well as remove defects (depends on doing it by hand or machine). It will also remove any clay marring.
Meguiar`s Ultimate Polish and M205 are available at your local parts store. I would recommend prep wiping a couple times with either of these.
I linked this poorboy`s product on your AGO post. Waxmode has used this more than enough to remove old sealant/wax.
https://www.autogeek.net/pb-strip-down.html
The other option is to find someone that can do the prep work for you and you put the coating on. Perhaps even a local forum member.
I would look into adding an iron remover into the mix as well. An example is CarPro Ironx.
Exactly this. You don`t want an all in one as the base. The coating won`t bond 100% or last as long.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Eh, I fear this might sound more, uhm..contentious...than I intend
But I`d worry about unnecessary thinning of the clearcoat. Yeah, even with M205 (the TSO in which drive me nuts, so I`d never use that before a coating anyhow).Noting that I`ve done that plenty of times, I would *not* polish through the existing LSP when it`s easy enough to simply wipe, or "wash", the residual LSP off with the right Prep Product. Even just wiping it with Mineral Spirits oughta do the job, then a *NON*abrasive Pre-coating Product should work, and IMO it`d even be faster/easier than polishing a whole vehicle.
The Guz
Mike
Eh, I fear this might sound more, uhm..contentious...than I intend
Noting that I`ve done that plenty of times, I would *not* polish through the existing LSP when it`s easy enough to simply wipe, or "wash", the residual LSP off with the right Prep Product. Even just wiping it with Mineral Spirits oughta do the job, then a *NON*abrasive Pre-coating Product should work, and IMO it`d even be faster/easier than polishing a whole vehicle.
Someone asked this same exact question on MOL with regards to UP. Polishing does not remove that much unlike compounding. It is not like the op is using ultimate polish every day. We also don`t know if the op will do this by hand or machine which will make a difference as well.
Link Removed
Everyone is looking for that short cut to remove LSP`s and they don`t always work. Polishing has been proven to work. These paint prep/panel wipe products are intended to remove polishing oils. Sure it may remove a degraded wax. But I would not want to have any residue and have a coating fail prematurely.
With regards to your dislike for M205, yeah you have mentioned this quite often. It works fine with a coating and I never had an issue with it. Many have used it and continue to use it. Have you used M205 with a coating to know it does not work?
I do understand that age of the op as it’s a lot of work. If there is no LSP left in the paint then sure why not apply a coating.
The Guz
Mike
PM me. I’ll send these two 303 polishes out to you.
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-detailing-product-discussion/188145-don-23.html