Compounds with Diminishing Abrasives...

In Todd Helme`s write up of FG400 vs M105, it looked as if FG featured clumps of SMAT abrasives, that "diminished" into true SMAT. I believe the term is agglomorated abrasives.

I also believe that Rupes Zephir is oriented similarly, as per an AGO forum member`s posting.

http://www.autopia.org/forums/detai...nd-vs-menzerna-fg400-fast-gloss-compound.html

It has to contain smat since Todd Helme used water to improve its working time, just like KBM on Megs smat abrasives.
 
I honestly think M105 was designed to work inside a shop with the a/c running. Because unless you use water, it will dry up and stick to a car like a magnet. And whatever is underneath it will not get any correcting because it has a layer of protective compound covering it.

This and the fact that it doesn`t have the nicest finish has me looking elsewhere
 
Heh heh, I must be some kind of outlier on M105 as it never stuck to the paint or otherwise caused me issues. But then I only work it for a *VERY* short time and always buff it off while it`s still wet.

My only issues with it (and "issues" is way too strong) were wanting more cut and the micromarring from never breaking down. That last bit isn`t really a problem IMO as I *ALWAYS* follow up with a milder step (or two or three) anyhow.

danlc95 said:
In Todd Helme`s write up of FG400 vs M105, it looked as if FG featured clumps of SMAT abrasives, that "diminished" into true SMAT. I believe the term is agglomorated abrasives.

True vs. ?what?...quasi/pseudo/SMAT? Heh heh, I`m somehow not getting this...do the abrasives break down to a limited extent and then remain constant?

joel79 said:
It has to contain smat since Todd Helme used water to improve its working time, just like KBM on Megs smat abrasives...

Nah, some of us have been adding water to increase both the cut and work time since forever, long before SMAT abrasives; I`ve been doing it since the mid-`70s.
 
I honestly think M105 was designed to work inside a shop with the a/c running. Because unless you use water, it will dry up and stick to a car like a magnet. And whatever is underneath it will not get any correcting because it has a layer of protective compound covering it.

This and the fact that it doesn`t have the nicest finish has me looking elsewhere

Tried M105 a month or two ago to see what all the hubub was about; after one section I tossed the bottle. Had read all the tips/tricks/spritz/work fast/combine with {whatever} on pad but in the end, not worth all the trouble when I can just drop some M101 on a cutting pad (foam) and take care of some pretty severe oxidation/defects in 4 passes w/ the Flex and a LC Force Gray heavy cutting pad...and it finishes pretty well considering its ability as well. When I want to get something `heavy` done relatively quickly and neatly and Megs D300 w/ microfiber cutting discs does not apply, M101 fits the bill. Have Menz FG400 as well but, depending on task at hand, SMAT is quicker than working DAT thru it`s cycle, especially when a follow up polishing is in the cards.

For whatever reason, since acquiring the Flex 3401 and Rupes LHR15 Mk 2 a few months ago, I like DAT w/ the Rupes (aside from the D300 combo on the Rupes) and SMAT with the Flex. :shrug:
 
My favorite DAT compound is FG400. I hate the smell, but it leaves a great finish and is just consistent. I have heard BOSS Fast Correction Cream works very similar to FG400 but I haven`t had time to try it yet. I also like Sonax Cutmax and Rupes Zephyr Coarse.
 
Heh heh, I must be some kind of outlier on M105 as it never stuck to the paint or otherwise caused me issues. But then I only work it for a *VERY* short time and always buff it off while it`s still wet.

My only issues with it (and "issues" is way too strong) were wanting more cut and the micromarring from never breaking down. That last bit isn`t really a problem IMO as I *ALWAYS* follow up with a milder step (or two or three) anyhow.

Alright then you come down here to Florida in the middle of 90 degree heat and try to compound a car outside like I do, I bet you won`t last.

But I have came to the realization that full polishing is always going to require at least 2 steps. Maybe it`s better to have an arsenal of products instead of just 1 product that you depend on. But I would consider this my rebuilding of the arsenal stage for better products. Because detailing is like painting a canvas, the more paint and tools you have the better the picture will be.
 
Yep, the clumped abrasives in FG400 break down into a SMAT type of product.
OK, thanks for confirming. Nice feature for those who like DAT.

Addicted 2Bling said:
Alright then you come down here to Florida in the middle of 90 degree heat and try to compound a car outside like I do, I bet you won`t last.

Heh heh, my days of detailing in anon-climate-controlled environment are long behind me :D My last shop got into the triple-digits in the summer (which caused the overhead door`s motor to quit, making for more work) but it lacked the humidity that you guys in Florida have to deal with.

Situational factors like that can make all the difference, huh? I bet the "outside in the heat" is exactly what you *don`t* want with M105. And I sure agree with you regarding the finish it leaves (follow-up or not), don`t know how some guys get it to finish nicer but I just can`t.
 
I wonder how 101 would compare to d300? D300 is made for cutting with a microfiber pad and is a favorite. I`ve never used 101. I`ve been sticking with Rupes blue, FG400, or D300. I have a small bottle of HD Cut, but I`ve never got around to trying it out. Too many compounds, not enough beat up cars.
 
I wonder how 101 would compare to d300? D300 is made for cutting with a microfiber pad and is a favorite. I`ve never used 101. I`ve been sticking with Rupes blue, FG400, or D300. I have a small bottle of HD Cut, but I`ve never got around to trying it out. Too many compounds, not enough beat up cars.
Been messing around this winter with some fleet vans, from good condition to really beat. Have been using a lot of M101 on foam and D300 on microfiber (never thought of M101 on microfiber). All things NOT being equal Flex/M101/foam heavy cutting pad was 4 passes to clean up what took Rupes 15/D300/micro cutting discs 6 passes...assuming same general arm speed. That said, The Rupees was much less taxing so it probably evened out over the course of the entire (large) van.

Probably not that skilled yet with Rupes and Flex is more grab and go so a real Pro could likely move faster (and feel better) with the Rupes/D300.

Finish was pretty darn good with both...not much of a real difference.
 
In my opinion d300 and m101 are not very close in terms of cut although they leave a very similar finish. D300 cuts very well with a microfiber cutting pad because of it`s longer buffing cycle and minimal dusting, but on a foam cutting pad I feel like D300 is a very light compound or extremely heavy polish.

On my personal compound aggressiveness scale (when paired with foam cutting pad) from 1-10 both HD cut+ and D300 are a 7; Scholl`s S20 Black, Blackfire SRC Compound and Wolfgang Uber Compound are a 7.5; FG 400 and 3D 501 cutting compound are an 8; M100 and Scholl Concepts S3 Gold are a 9; and Menzerna SHC300 & M101 are 10. Menzerna SHC 300 does cut more than m101 but it`s the only compound in my arsenal that is impossible to use as a 1-step compound (I understand that none of us would do a 1-step with anything other than a finishing polish on our personal vehicles, but as a business owner I have 1-stepped all of these other than SHC300.

I wonder how 101 would compare to d300? D300 is made for cutting with a microfiber pad and is a favorite. I`ve never used 101. I`ve been sticking with Rupes blue, FG400, or D300. I have a small bottle of HD Cut, but I`ve never got around to trying it out. Too many compounds, not enough beat up cars.
 
I wonder how 101 would compare to d300? D300 is made for cutting with a microfiber pad and is a favorite. I`ve never used 101. I`ve been sticking with Rupes blue, FG400, or D300. I have a small bottle of HD Cut, but I`ve never got around to trying it out. Too many compounds, not enough beat up cars.

HD cut is very pleasant to use, but doesn`t offer enough cut to be a true compound imo. For silver cars and such, it`s great with a mf pad as a 1 step. Finishes well enough and will knock out a fair amount of swirling. Probably not ideal on black or for a show finish, but for the average person will be lsp ready.
 
Been messing around this winter with some fleet vans, from good condition to really beat. Have been using a lot of M101 on foam and D300 on microfiber (never thought of M101 on microfiber). All things NOT being equal Flex/M101/foam heavy cutting pad was 4 passes to clean up what took Rupes 15/D300/micro cutting discs 6 passes...assuming same general arm speed. That said, The Rupees was much less taxing so it probably evened out over the course of the entire (large) van.

Probably not that skilled yet with Rupes and Flex is more grab and go so a real Pro could likely move faster (and feel better) with the Rupes/D300.

Finish was pretty darn good with both...not much of a real difference.

I have had good luck on light colored metallics with 2 drops of D300 + 1 drop of M105 on a Meg`s MF pad. Knocked the swirls on my son`s Civic, when no foam pad/polish combo would. This was several years ago, before the latest polishes were out.

Currently Scholl`s S3 on a Spider foam pad or an MF pad is my go-to polish. I can usually get it to finish down without an additional step.
 
My favorite DAT compound is FG400. I hate the smell, but it leaves a great finish and is just consistent. I have heard BOSS Fast Correction Cream works very similar to FG400 but I haven`t had time to try it yet. I also like Sonax Cutmax and Rupes Zephyr Coarse.
What pads are you using? m/f? Which of the 4 do you like/prefer? I have not used Cutmax or the FCC. I like the WG uber over the Zephyr, seems like a tad bit more cut w/ the Boss m/f pads.
 
What pads are you using? m/f? Which of the 4 do you like/prefer? I have not used Cutmax or the FCC. I like the WG uber over the Zephyr, seems like a tad bit more cut w/ the Boss m/f pads.

Strictly depends on the paint I am working with. I haven`t used Cutmax in some time. With Zephyr I only use on Rupes pads. FG400 I use on LC HD pads or Meg`s MF if I need it. They are the only foam pads that tend to stand up to the solvents in FG400. I am using a lot of Angelwax Resurrection on B&S Uro pads currently. Cuts more, leaves a great finish, and wipes away easier.

Angelwax Resurrection and B&S Uro Maroon.
c6b55234c2c860c97c39b45c04cffbd6.jpg
 
Back
Top