Hey guys. I am new to the community and I am currently looking at products to by to take care of my vehicle. For the compounding step, if my car is badly swirled and requires a heavy cut compound...do I use the heavy cut compound and go straight to the final polish? Or do I use the heavy cut, then medium cut, then light cut, then the polish? Thanks
Compoud ---> Polish steps
- Thread starter xciii110
- Start date
It depends....you will want to do a 2ft. x 2ft. test spot, usually on the hood or trunk. Tape off the area and start with the least aggressive product and pad combination - does it met your expectations? If yes, then you have your combo, otherwise try a 2nd pass. If this looks good, maybe try a more aggressive pad/combo on a 2nd test area, and so on.
If you had to use an aggressive combo to correct the defects, use a 2x2 area to determine if a finishing polish will add more clarity. Sometimes the compounds finish well enough that the less aggressive combo does not improve the results.
There are so many variables (paint, product, pads, machines, etc.) there is no `standard` answer.
If you had to use an aggressive combo to correct the defects, use a 2x2 area to determine if a finishing polish will add more clarity. Sometimes the compounds finish well enough that the less aggressive combo does not improve the results.
There are so many variables (paint, product, pads, machines, etc.) there is no `standard` answer.
Mike lambert
New member
Exactly! Even if the paint is hazy when done on the first step after Griot’s fast cut I can go to perfecting cream with no problem.
Accumulator
Well-known member
xciii110- Welcome to Autopia! Yes indeed, this is one of those Qs where "it all depends.." is *not* just a blow-off response 
Since it sounds like you`re starting the product gathering from scratch, knowing what paint/vehicle you`re working on (and what polisher you`ll be using...not planning on doing it manually are you?
) might help us start you off on the right foot...well, at least generally speaking.
Since it sounds like you`re starting the product gathering from scratch, knowing what paint/vehicle you`re working on (and what polisher you`ll be using...not planning on doing it manually are you?
) might help us start you off on the right foot...well, at least generally speaking.Thanks guys for the quick replies.
I have a 2014 Acura ILX and from what I hear, Hondas and Acuras have soft paint. I bought this car used and it is in really bad shape. I am doing all the mechanical things first and then I`m going to give it a complete detail.
I`ve heard good things about Flex polishers so I was going to go with the XFE 7-15 150.
I`ve added a few pictures so you can see what I`m working with. It`s from the driver`s side trunk and c pillar. It`s the same all the way around the car.
Also...I used imgur to upload the pictures. What`s the best way to upload pictures so that they come out larger without clicking on them like in the click & brag section?
I have a 2014 Acura ILX and from what I hear, Hondas and Acuras have soft paint. I bought this car used and it is in really bad shape. I am doing all the mechanical things first and then I`m going to give it a complete detail.
I`ve heard good things about Flex polishers so I was going to go with the XFE 7-15 150.
I`ve added a few pictures so you can see what I`m working with. It`s from the driver`s side trunk and c pillar. It`s the same all the way around the car.
Also...I used imgur to upload the pictures. What`s the best way to upload pictures so that they come out larger without clicking on them like in the click & brag section?
Thanks guys for the quick replies.
I have a 2014 Acura ILX and from what I hear, Hondas and Acuras have soft paint. I bought this car used and it is in really bad shape. I am doing all the mechanical things first and then I`m going to give it a complete detail.
I`ve heard good things about Flex polishers so I was going to go with the XFE 7-15 150.
I`ve added a few pictures so you can see what I`m working with. It`s from the driver`s side trunk and c pillar. It`s the same all the way around the car.
Also...I used imgur to upload the pictures. What`s the best way to upload pictures so that they come out larger without clicking on them like in the click & brag section?
Hi. I did a Cadillac STS that was at least that swirled out and no kidding I used orange buff and shine with Menzerna HC400 and even though I could have, I didn`t need to use another `step` of polishing to reach the clarity I was after. Granted it was my aunt`s car but it turned out pretty good. Topped with 2 coats of DD Rainforest Rub and called it a day... so i suppose like others have said, it depends on what you find works on that paint/clear/car, etc... good luck
rlmccarty2000
Active member
I think a 2 step may be all you need. My personal choice would be Menzerma 400 followed with either Menzerma 3500 or CarPro Essence (if you are going with a coating). As has been stated, a test spot will give you a definitive answer.
Mike lambert
New member
My only advice would be before you buy Flex look at all your options. We switched from Rupes to all Griot’s machines and liquids. Can’t beat the warranty!. Also don’t worry about what’s soft or hard, it makes no difference , your car could be completely different than the car that came before or after on the line. Concentrate on technique and residue control which is what causes people the most problems. Good luck and welcome.
Civicclutch
New member
I agree with menzerna 400 as a starter and use the b&s euro fiber pads. I’m currently working on a f350 that’s white and it’s working well as it’ll be a one step more likely here’s a 50/50 of the white with the combo mentioned above
Mckeeys fast compound works well too and finishes off really well too.
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Mckeeys fast compound works well too and finishes off really well too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
WaxAddict
New member
On Honda paint, Menzerna 2500 could very well be a one-step solution if you are reluctant to buy the well-advised 400 + some finishing polish.
LEDetailng
New member
I agree with menzerna 400 as a starter and use the b&s euro fiber pads. I’m currently working on a f350 that’s white and it’s working well as it’ll be a one step more likely here’s a 50/50 of the white with the combo mentioned above
Mckeeys fast compound works well too and finishes off really well too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You nailed that one!
Great one step results and perfect photo showing results. Too bad it’s an F350 and you’ll be polishing it until March
Two steps is all you will need. Especially on an Acura and in the condition that paint is in. That said, I would bet you could complete that in pretty easy fashion. Key is product and pad combo. If you want something easy and locally sourced, Meg`s Twins, Ultimate Compound and Polish are excellent and will do the trick for you. I love Menzerna products and if you have their polishes, they will finish out a little better but IMO the VERY best I`ve found for Honda and Subaru paints is Scholl`s S30 polish.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Different compounds/polishes can be, well....different..with regard to how user-friendly different people find them.
Eh, that doesn`t sound too helpful I guess but FWIW I find certain perfectly good products that others really like (e.g., Menzerna and certain from Meguiar`s) to be frustrating in the extreme whereas I find other products (HD and other stuff from Meguiar`s) to be incredibly simple and easy. Those specific preferences are just me, but it wouldn`t surprise me if others were just as opinionated (if maybe about different stuff on either side of the user-friendliness fence).
Do you want diminishing abrasives or NONdiminishing ones? Long work time or short? Care about the Polishing Oils content? Gonna use Eraser/etc. after each pass to check progress or need to work around that? Planning to do some stripping (of oils/etc.) between the polishing and the LSPing?
I`d get Qs like those figured out before buying.
Eh, that doesn`t sound too helpful I guess but FWIW I find certain perfectly good products that others really like (e.g., Menzerna and certain from Meguiar`s) to be frustrating in the extreme whereas I find other products (HD and other stuff from Meguiar`s) to be incredibly simple and easy. Those specific preferences are just me, but it wouldn`t surprise me if others were just as opinionated (if maybe about different stuff on either side of the user-friendliness fence).
Do you want diminishing abrasives or NONdiminishing ones? Long work time or short? Care about the Polishing Oils content? Gonna use Eraser/etc. after each pass to check progress or need to work around that? Planning to do some stripping (of oils/etc.) between the polishing and the LSPing?
I`d get Qs like those figured out before buying.
briarpatch
New member
What he said about the polisher. I use a Griots Garage DA, and could not be happier with it. So far, it`s handled everything I`ve thrown at it
Accumulator
Well-known member
Whereas I found the GG6 to be superior to the PC, better suited to Final Polishing than the Flex 3401, but not the be-all/end-all answer. If buying today, I`d be looking at long-throw units (like that Flex).
Mike lambert
New member
The Griot’s 15 and 21 is what I was referring to as far as long throw machines.
A long throw machine is just a DA with a larger orbit. While a standard DA has a 8mm orbit the long throws have a 15 or 21 mm orbit.