Collinite selector guide

915 doesn't get the kudos that 845 gets, but it is amazing on dark and metallic flake. In fact it took 3rd place in a competition of waxes costing up to $5000 a can... on a black car. Not bad for $30 wax.
 
This is very helpful! I've been meaning to get a bottle of 845 but may also grab 915 too based on what silverfox said.
 
Huh, guess experiences differ...at least a little.

I've used Collinite 845 and 476S since forever. IME the 845 isn't as durable as it's reputed to be, or at least it's not in the same league as 476S. Not that is isn't pretty good in this regard, but I wouldn't expect miracles. Layering *does* help, but I'd wait as long as possible to avoid solvent-efect. I *have* done OK by topping 845 with 476S right away, and it can make things easier when working along the edges of pinstripe/PPF/etc.

FWIW, it was lack of durability that prompted me to quit using Collinite (on all but one vehicle) in favor of FK1000P despite sometimes preferring the look of the former. Simply no comparison with regard to durability IME, so heh heh..."if you think 845 is durable..." ;) The FK1000P doesn't look all *that* different from 845 IMO but the 476S is simply good-looking in the usual paste wax-sense. I've had "experts" (scare-quotes intentional ;) ) mistake 476S for a boutique wax when applied to a well-polished concours car.

845 is nice on trim (I'd use W-O-W-O), but 476S can often be used that way too (*definitely* gotta use W-O-W-O!! and maybe this is a "don't try this at home, kids!" kinda thing..). I'd pre-clean the trim with KAIO if using Collinite this way. IME neither lasts as long as Ultima's T&TG+ (prep for that with Griot's Rubber Prep instead of the KAIO).

845 is "brighter", more reflective, sorta looks like a (liquid version of) M16. 476S gives better depth and "jetting". The differences fade after a few washes.

With both products, using less makes everything go better.

I'd refresh both as soon as the (really impressive) beading starts to change, at that point I seldom bother claying/etc. I just put on another coat of the Collinite.

Oh, just FWIW, the last time I talked with the guys at Collinite, they *ALL* were using 476S on their vehicles.
 
Sort of embarrassing but would someone (Accumulator?) explain "jetting" please. Have searched it here in vain and even googled it. Nothing. I can't seem to get a feel for what the term implies. Thanks.
 
E-Jag said:
Sort of embarrassing but would someone (Accumulator?) explain "jetting" please. Have searched it here in vain and even googled it. Nothing. I can't seem to get a feel for what the term implies. Thanks.
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Heh heh, this "describe the most subtle of appearance diffs" stuff is tricky, that's why I put "jetting" in scare-quotes!

As I understand it, and somebody please school me if I'm off here, the jetting is that deep look that makes paint look a mile deep and (I suspect this is where the term comes from..) give that "oh, just look at how the panel contours flow!" type of look. The way the gloss enhances, rather than diminishes the "oooh, just look at that car's lines!" effect. Like...the opposite of the "eh, that looks sterile and lifeless" look that bright, really reflective LSPs give.

Noting your user-name...ya know how some LSPs just look *RIGHT* on an E-type while others don't? Like, they just accentuate the lines of a car with that sort of stying? It's that kind of thing.

I guess I keep getting back to the "looks right with the lines of certain cars" explanation.

Did that make any sense?!? Can anybody else do better? I suspect that somebody here can give a much better explanation :D

This Autopian-picky appearance stuff makes me kinda roll my eyes even when I'm contributing to it.

EDIT for even more of this stuff: The time I wowed people with 476S it was on my pal's MKII. It just looked *right*, made the style of the car come through, didn't just make it look nicely detailed. The "experts" were saying how "that must be DodoJuice...yeah, nothing else looks quite like that stuff, that's the right wax for a classic like that". It played to the whole period-correct presentation that Judges care about.
 
Accumulator, thanks. Yes, that helps. It's a term, then, that sort of aligns itself with depth and it's visual effect. Wouldn't have guessed that. I know exactly what you mean about LSP's on old cars (and your opinions on same). I typically use a carnauba based LSP, as opposed to a straight sealant, on the old E-Type. Super glossy just doesn't look quite right on it but I like the look on my Mazda 6. Thanks again.
 
ShaneB said:
This is very helpful! I've been meaning to get a bottle of 845 but may also grab 915 too based on what silverfox said.
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915 is THE cost/performance champ. Don't expect an oily rainbow of passion-fruit-scented unicorn tears. It's just plain awesomeness. Speaking to Accumulator's "jetting", yeah, 915 in spades. There is, however, a learning curve. THIN coats, not too long cure time, small areas. I've seen people leave 915 due to holograms and wax haze, but they didn't use it carefully.
 
I am a 845 homer love this stuff, but I have been wanting to try Wolfgang sealant, again I am a Wolfgang homer. So my plan is to lay down the WG and top with 845 I'm sure it's over kill but I've been wanting to do this for a few years.
 
I can't be the only one that noticed that they claim a 16oz bottle of 845 will do 6-12 mid sized cars.... I can't imagine using that entire bottle on only 6 cars. I feel like I got 15+ out of my current bottle. It goes on so thin and quick.

Although the paste waxes might be better, I have found I am not really a paste wax guy. So 845 is a good compromise for me.
 
TroyScherer said:
I can't be the only one that noticed that they claim a 16oz bottle of 845 will do 6-12 mid sized cars.... I can't imagine using that entire bottle on only 6 cars. I feel like I got 15+ out of my current bottle. It goes on so thin and quick..
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Well, they'd probably like for people to go through a bottle quickly and order another one ;) Yeah, on bottle of 845 will last a long, *LONG* time if you only use as much as you need. Not like it takes an ounce to do a normal-size car. I probably only used a little more than that to do the Yukon XLD (more than I use with KSG, but not *ounces* or anything...).

When you're done, see if you can squeeze any 845 out of your applicator pad; if so, then that's excess/wasted product.
 
WaxAddict, THAT is the reason I've resisted the urge to try 915. I've read that it isn't an easy product to use. I gather you think it's appearance is worth having to tip-toe around the application. Is it that much better than 845, which is sooo easy to use?
 
E-Jag said:
WaxAddict, THAT is the reason I've resisted the urge to try 915. I've read that it isn't an easy product to use. I gather you think it's appearance is worth having to tip-toe around the application. Is it that much better than 845, which is sooo easy to use?
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915 is exetremly easy to use. I think that myth may come from an older formula of 915 from years ago. I have a tub that's many years old and it's easier than most waxes. It doesn't buff off "smeary"; but it does buff off easy. 915 is an older product, and I'm sure the formula was updated at one point.

I encourage you to try it. It's very easy to use and very good.
 
Swanicyouth said:
915 is exetremly easy to use. I think that myth may come from an older formula of 915 from years ago. I have a tub that's many years old and it's easier than most waxes. It doesn't buff off "smeary"; but it does buff off easy. 915 is an older product, and I'm sure the formula was updated at one point.

I encourage you to try it. It's very easy to use and very good.
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The key to 915 is applying it thin. I apply to one panel and apply to second panel. Move quickly back to first panel as it hazes and buff off.

If you apply it to thick or let it sit to long it's a bear to remove.
 
Swanicyouth, consider me encouraged. And thanks, Pats300zx. Sounds like I just need to remember to not let it set up for an hour like I usually do 845. Sorta looking forward to this.
 
E-Jag said:
WaxAddict, THAT is the reason I've resisted the urge to try 915. I've read that it isn't an easy product to use. I gather you think it's appearance is worth having to tip-toe around the application. Is it that much better than 845, which is sooo easy to use?
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915 is absolutely NOT hard to use if you use it right. As usual, thin coats are the order of the day, but even more important is curing time. Just a haze, and wipe off. If it hazes in 4 minutes then that's your cure time. Don't be tempted to do large areas, or like someone I know, the entire car, before removal.

I also use and like 845, but 915 is the bomb on dark blue, black, and any very dark color. If you have silver, white, bright red... 845 is actually a better choice IMO.
 
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