Collinite 915 questions

G

Guitarist302008

New member
Hey all, this is the first time i've used Collinite products.. I bought the 915 as a durable topper to go over my already durable FK 1000p.



I've put 3 layers of the FK on my car... I just enjoy applying wax, so I just keep sealing lol.



Anyway my questions are... how long typically should I let the 915 dry?

Does it layer well?

I assume that I should wait 24 hours between layers?

Should I keep just the FK1000 on my wheels or is the 915 good for wheels as well?

The FK will remove tar with the solevents in it.. will the 915 also do that?



Any other advice about the wax would be appreciated as well.. thanks all!
 
Guitarist302008 said:
Hey all, this is the first time i've used Collinite products.. I bought the 915 as a durable topper to go over my already durable FK 1000p...
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Gee, I'd hate to top FK1000P, but if you're determined to do so, well, OK.



I've never actually used 915, but here's what I've heard from people I consider reliable:



Anyway my questions are... how long typically should I let the 915 dry?
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Until it passes the finger-swipe test.



Does it layer well?
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Supposedly not, at least not without spitshining.



I assume that I should wait 24 hours between layers?
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With the similar 476S, that wasn't always enough and I sometimes got pseudo-holograms when I tried to layer it; huge PIA that you sure don't want.



Should I keep just the FK1000 on my wheels or is the 915 good for wheels as well?
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I would never top the FK1000P on the wheels, not at all. More likely to have downsides than benefits.



The FK will remove tar with the solevents in it.. will the 915 also do that?
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Probably, most all LSPs will do that, even Souveran.



Any other advice about the wax would be appreciated as well.. thanks all!
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Repeating unsolicted advice against topping the FK1000P :o
 
hmmm that's interesting... howcome you wouldn't top it with the 915? I thought a lot of people topped their sealants with a carnuba wax?



I actually found one answer to one question... the 915 apparently has no other solovents, so it won't remove tar the same way that the FK will.
 
I wouldn't top FK1000P either. No one has been able to prove layering actually works, in fact its been proven that at "layer 3" you actually remove product. Two coats for even coverage and you are done. Otherwise you risk compromising the product. But don't listen to me, split your hood in 3 and do:



FK1000P x 2 coats

FK1000 + 915

915 x 2 coats



Let us know which worked best!
 
there is also that guy who put 51 layers on his car lol.



I didn't think that the 915 would even be able to remove product since it's just a solid carnuba wax with supposedly no other additives.. it doesn't have any sort of solvent smell either.
 
Guitarist302008 said:
I didn't think that the 915 would even be able to remove product since it's just a solid carnuba wax with supposedly no other additives.. it doesn't have any sort of solvent smell either.
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It has solvents in it, without a doubt. Pure carnauba is hard as a rock.
 
Accumulator, I forgot to mention that I also got the 915 for some scratch concealing.. they aren't bad enough that i'm going to strip all of my layers off and polish, but I thought a few layers of the 915 might help as i've seen some people say that it does fill mild scratches which is what I have.
 
Guitarist303008- The 915 might indeed hide some minor flaws that the FK1000P will not. That'd be a tricky call for me...minor marring on a FK1000Ped vehicle :think: I'd probably try to find a QD that helps conceal a little bit (FK146 does a tiny bit and I hear the 3D stuff does some too) and just see if I could live with that. If not, *I* would repolish and reseal, but that's just me and, well...consider how nutty I am about avoiding marring.



Generally, I don't top sealants with waxes because the minor diff in appearance (OK, sometimes it's not that minor) isn't worth sacrificing both a) the way the sealants behave (by themselves) and especially b) the ability to layer on more sealant later.



I'm not *quite* as categorically adamant as Yakky about layering being a crock, but I will say that sometimes it really works for me, and other times it doesn't. And to make it *really* work with regard to waxes, I'd spitshine (and gee, how hard to you want to work at this stuff?).



With regard to layering paste waxes...no, I've never had them mess with an underlying sealant. But I have had them mess with underlying waxes and there's no way I'd try to layer Collinite paste wax without spitshining it.



My usual Collinite approach these days is to layer it as follows: 845, then 476s, then more 845. And then I redo the 845 as needed until I decide I need to repolish. IME 845 *does* layer, despite being a liquid with all the solvents that entails.
 
well tonight I washed my Z. I had debadged the 370 z and the Nissan emblem. It left quite a lot of residue that I wiped down, but it really left a bad spot and you would see the 370 z. So I got out the Super finish and the white pad with the Flex and I figured that would do it... NOT! So I went back upstairs and got the SIP with the orange pad... 2 passes... NOT!!!!... finally I had to go all the way down to Intensive polish with the orange pad and then back to the SIP before topping it off with the FK. It did look quite shiny I have to say lol. Tomorrow there's going to be a huge shiny spot and i'll wind up redoing the entire car haha.



Anyway... I decided to give my Fiancee's car a quick wash and dry and applied the 915 to just the hood (it needs to be polished so I didn't want to do to much of the car).



I would have to say that the way the water falls off of the car is about equal to the FK.. but my hood is also layered 3 times, so perhaps the collinite would be better if the car had been polished first like mine was before I layered. Anyway.. without the car being in the light I couldn't tell you how it looks, both cars are white, but mine is a pearl white so it's a bit more cream colored.. her's is like a bright white.



The collinite doesn't seem any more slick than the FK though... it's probably close to the same, or perhaps even a lttle less. Application and removal is about the same was well provided that it is applied thin as with most paste waxes.. it feels as hard as a rock though, and I can see why it would be as durable as many claim.
 
Guitarist302008- IMO the diffs between Collinite waxes and FK1000P a) vary with the vehicle; sometimes it's a big diff other times it's not and b) can often become more pronounced over time. But as with "does topping improve the look?" and all the other aspects of this topic, sometimes we're really splitting hairs and that will matter more to some people than to others.



I think the idea behind FK1000P + FK Pink Wax is basically that they're designed to work together. Which isn't really all that big a deal IMO.
 
after having the collinite on the hood over night and part of the day (which was rather hot) when I touched it, it had almost a smearing effect that I don't notice with the FK. I don't like this and while I don't go around touching the car.. it does happen sometimes. Perhaps it takes a while to fully cure, or maybe that's how it always is... I can't say it's a quality I like however.



I washed the car tonight and pulled it into the garage and am planning on doing a full correction. I will add pics when I am finished, but right now I am leaning a bit more toward the FK. I have also used Duragloss 105 and applied it in multiple coats to my old Evo X and then added 2 coats of FK to the top of that and it held up VERY well, so I might try that as well. Not sure how the DG looks on lighter cars though.
 
Guitarist302008- That smearing oughta minimize as the wax cures more, but IMO it'll never be *quite* the same as the FK1000P.



If the DG/FK combo worked OK for you on your Evo, I'd just try that. I'm losing the whole "on lighter/darker cars" perspective in favor of "on this particular vehicle, and after I've lived with it for a while" approach. I was certain the FK1000P was the wrong look on my Yukon (after having used Collinite) but after a few months I was perfectly happy with it and never went back to the Collinite. Maybe it'll go the same way for you, maybe it won't, but I think it's worth a try.
 
yeah, I polished the hood so far today... now listen to this... with a Flex DA set on 5 with an orange pad and POWER GLOSS I had to make 3 passes in some areas, I can still see some deeper scratches, but very few. I don't have a paint meter so i'm afraid to make anymore passes on it, so I just went ahead with the super finish, which came out beautifully actually.. I thought i'd have to put a middle cut like the SIP or something on it, but no, it looks great.
 
Guitarist302008- Hey, there you go :xyxthumbs



Sensible to stop without getting the worst RIDS out 100%. Glad everything worked out so well.



Now for the tricky part...not marring it up again!



You gonna stick with just the FK1000P? I'd try getting a few layers on there, but only one at a time (next layer after the next wash).
 
Yeah, I think I will lay down some duragloss first, since it has some cleaners and a VERY minor polishes in it... it will make a good base for the FK1000 IMO. The pics here are hard to see... the car is VERY bright white, but has nice flake in it... I tried to pick it up as good as I can, but I don't know if it picked up the surface scratches or not, but there were quite a bit of swirls. Honestly... Mazda paint is a lot harder than I thought it was!



These are the only shots I could get that showed the paint condition.. hard to see, but at least you get an idea... the whole car is like this and the hood was even worse!



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Hood pics



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You can see some of the very nice flake this paint has here...



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The smearing is likely sweating. The high concentration of carnauba will sweat quite a bit hours later but should be able to wipe away with a clean microfiber towel.
 
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