Collinite 845 vs Blackfire Wet Diamond, which is better?

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imported_RedlineIRL

New member
I have been using Collinite 845 for the past few years all year round on my car, and I have been looking to try something different. I've been sticking with the 845 because after trying many different sealants and waxes, not much else out there came close when it comes to the durability of it. A few things that kind of quirk me about it, the fact that it beads more water than actually sheeting it and that IMO it seems to attact a lot of dirt until after a few washes, has made me want to try something new.



I have been using the Collinite 845 mixed with Polycharger CH2, so the durability should be a little better than using just standard 845, but for those that have tried both 845 and BFWD could you tell me how both of these compare when it comes to the following and which is better?





Durability = This is going on a vehicle that currently sits outside 24/7 at the moment, and is exposed to the hot and humid temperatures of the southeast. I want something that can provide the maximum protection against the sun



Water sheeting = Here during the summer months it's not uncommon to get a passing storm that pours for 10 minutes, then the blazing hot sun comes back out again. I am looking for something that will sheet as much water off as possible that way the sun does not bake it in



Layering = I know that 845 looks better and lasts longer when applied twice, but does the same apply to Blackfire? Can another layer of it be applied directly after wiping the first, or is there a waiting time?



Overall shine, depth, and gloss = Of course, I want something that looks good too





Also, with Blackfire Wet Diamond, does the prdouct that has been applied previously make a real big difference in the durability of it? I usually like to apply Poorboys Carnuba Blue polish before going to my LSP. I find on my red car it give it some extra depth and gloss before going to the LSP. Do you all see any compatibility problems with the Poorboys Carnuba Blue being applied before Blackfire?





Sorry for all of the questions at once, but I am kinda new to Blackfire Wet Diamond and have become interested after reading many positive reviews. If you all could help answer these questions for me I'd really appreciate it, since I am looking to get a wax in soon and want to choose the better of the two. Thanks
 
I have the BFWD and I really like the slickness of it... it's just really incredible. The 845 is obviously going to be more durable IMO anyway. It's just a harder product. The blackfire looks great, especially on darker cars... I have never tried it on a light one.



As far as the layering goes... i'm not sure. I don't know if BF has any cleaners right off hand, but i'm sure that you could layer it as well ... i'd wait 24 hours for it to cure before layering.



If you have something out in the hot sun, I would consider the Finish Kare 1000p which is a lot like the 845, it's for higher temps of up to 250 degrees I believe. It lasts a long time before breaking down. I have 3 layers of it on my Z right now.



I'm not sure how well BF holds up to the heat as my last car I had cleaned, but a few coats of BF on it, but wound up trading it in before I could see the durability of it.



A few guys here feel like it's a bit oily and is more inclined to produce holograms because of this. I've never noticed it, but it sounds like a perfectly reasonable explanation for something that oily.



The Finish Kare is a good balance of what you are looking for I think. It does sheet water well, it's not the slickest finish out there, but it is good and even if you get water spots... with FK on there they basically wash right off.
 
Guitarist302008 said:
A few guys here feel like it's a bit oily and is more inclined to produce holograms because of this. I've never noticed it, but it sounds like a perfectly reasonable explanation for something that oily.
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I have kind of noticed this too when using 845. But I know that it's just hazing from appling too much product. The extra wax that bled through to cause this always washed off at the next wash. Is this the same with the Blackfire or is it related to something toally different?





Too bad the Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax wasn't offerend in a lqiuid. I have never been much of a fan of pastes. Anyone know the melting point of 845 or Blakcfire Wet Diamond? Depending on their limits, I may give the FK 1000P a try if it's a huge improvement
 
I wish I did know the melting point myself. I think the FK is higher than all others though don't quote me on that. They are all good products though.. you could always try them and just see how they work. I will tell you that one of my VERY favorite sealants is Duragloss 105... it's sort of an AIO, but it's claims say it can last up to a year. It's not real slick.. but I will tell you that it has a look sort of all it's own... to me anyway. It's candied looking on a finish and I personally love that. It's VERY thin... looks kind of like skim milk to be honest, but it works soooooooo well and i've always noticed that it kept the paint cleaner somehow.. it's just really great stuff. I'm putting it on my Fiancee's Mazdaspeed 3 as i'm detailing it now. It's also cheap for 16oz. it's 10-12.00.



The FK1000 can be applied with a DA polisher, but I do it by hand... it's not that bad, you just have to apply it really thin and even... I wait 20 minutes and it comes off pretty easily for me.
 
Blackfire, while a great sealant, isn't what I would consider a durability sealant. It is geared for looks, and it really delivers there. It is one of the first sealants to deliver a durable carnauba type look. It will last several months which isn't an issue for most autopians.
 
While I have used both and like both for different applications, BWFD does deliver awesome looks, and durability is pretty good. It is very easy to apply and even easier to remove and again, looks great. I have gotten about 5 months of durability out of it.



My new go to sealant, which I have gotten around 7 months of durability and which produces an amazing gloss and look (especially on metallic paints) is Autoglym SRP with Autoglym EGP. It's a two step process, but the "wow"factor on metallics is amazing.
 
Autoglym SRP, DWG 2.0 + BFWD = absolutely great looks on darker colored cars. I did this process on two of our vehicles and still am staring out the window after 4 weeks of application. One is a 24/7 vehicle the other a garage queen. I put BFWD on the garaged vehicle last year and had water still beading when I did the first prep wash this year - actually had to re-wash with a higher concentration of CG citrus wash to remove it.



I did put 845 on my mom's car and on my boat this spring. IMO, if you are after awesome durability with great looks, can't beat 845. If you want awesome looks and great durability, BFWD is want you want. Both are very very easy to apply and remove, though if 845 applied too thick will require a second wipe down the next day. BFWD will provide a slightly slicker surface initially but doesn't stay that way forever. Both appear to have the same water beading qualities and dirt attraction, I haven't seen an advantage of either one and they both bead very heavily, 845 maybe slightly more.
 
SO is BFWD different from BF All Finish Paint Protection? The latter boasted a very high melting/etc. point and I've used it on the brake calipers on vehicles that are driven hard.



The 845 "Insulator Wax" oughta be plenty heat-resistant too, given its original use.



For that matter, even "low melting point" LSPs (e.g., #16) work fine for me in this regard, only had minor issues with Souveran and hey, Scottwax likes to use it on black vehicles in Texas!



Autoglym SRP isn't the AIO I reach for on every vehicle, but for some applications it's perfect. I somehow never tried their EGP though :nixweiss One trick I used to hear about was mixing SRP + EGP to create a more durable "cleaner sealant" type of product. I think the idea was to use that when only minor cleaning was required, and to then apply another coat of straight EGP after the next wash.



For layering most *anything* I'd wait at least a day. Yeah, I've done KSG after maybe 16 hours, and waxes are a whole 'nother situation (generally involving spit-shining), but it's possible to layer all sorts of synthetics, including stuff with cleaners and abrasives that "shouldn't layer" (e.g., SRP) if you wait a day between coats and apply the second/subsequent coats very gently.
 
I think the advantage of BFWD is ease of application given the durability. You apply and almost immediately buff off and you have multiple months of durability.



It is a liquid so application is easy..no worries about application tips like "works fine if you apply thinly".
 
Accumulator said:
SO is BFWD different from BF All Finish Paint Protection? The latter boasted a very high melting/etc. point and I've used it on the brake calipers on vehicles that are driven hard.



The 845 "Insulator Wax" oughta be plenty heat-resistant too, given its original use.



For that matter, even "low melting point" LSPs (e.g., #16) work fine for me in this regard, only had minor issues with Souveran and hey, Scottwax likes to use it on black vehicles in Texas!



Autoglym SRP isn't the AIO I reach for on every vehicle, but for some applications it's perfect. I somehow never tried their EGP though :nixweiss One trick I used to hear about was mixing SRP + EGP to create a more durable "cleaner sealant" type of product. I think the idea was to use that when only minor cleaning was required, and to then apply another coat of straight EGP after the next wash.



For layering most *anything* I'd wait at least a day. Yeah, I've done KSG after maybe 16 hours, and waxes are a whole 'nother situation (generally involving spit-shining), but it's possible to layer all sorts of synthetics, including stuff with cleaners and abrasives that "shouldn't layer" (e.g., SRP) if you wait a day between coats and apply the second/subsequent coats very gently.
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Sometimes, I get the hankerin' to make a super glaze. 1pt danase wet glaze (original formula) to 2pts srp, a good lashing with the G6 (I got it, and I like it :D ), and top it with sumthin........But I keep forgettin to do it. :wall
 
stormsearch said:
I did put 845 on my mom's car and on my boat this spring. IMO, if you are after awesome durability with great looks, can't beat 845. If you want awesome looks and great durability, BFWD is want you want. Both are very very easy to apply and remove, though if 845 applied too thick will require a second wipe down the next day. BFWD will provide a slightly slicker surface initially but doesn't stay that way forever. Both appear to have the same water beading qualities and dirt attraction, I haven't seen an advantage of either one and they both bead very heavily, 845 maybe slightly more.
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Maybe I am looking at the wrong products then. Ideally, I'd like to use something that will sheet water off and not attract a lot of dirt. IMO, heavy beading and dirt attraction are just asking to promote water spoting and etching much faster
 
RedlineIRL said:
Maybe I am looking at the wrong products then. Ideally, I'd like to use something that will sheet water off and not attract a lot of dirt. IMO, heavy beading and dirt attraction are just asking to promote water spoting and etching much faster
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Understand exactly what you are saying, but we all would like that lol. When I wash my car the water does just sheet right off and looks really cool, but when it rains and it's just a slight drizzle, your always going to get water pooling unfortunately... BF is indeed very slick and probably has some of the best sheeting i've seen.
 
845 FTW, it's 1/2 the price and more durable. If you are worried about water spots, - carry a small bottle of QD and a MF in your trunk. I never let spots sit longer than 24hrs. With a good coat of 845, wiping off is a breeze. I used to be a FK#425 QD guy, but lately all I have used is Meg's #34, works just fine with 845.
 
silk said:
845.. I never let spots sit longer than 24hrs...
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Really?!? Good heavens, that's more effort than I'd ever put into it :eek:



But then I'm mar the paint if I tried that anyhow :nixweiss
 
Whenever I do a detail for pay, I've always been reaching for 845 as my choice of LSP because the clients love the initial look and can enjoy good durability for about half a year + hear in hot, humid Florida. Last time i saw it, the Mercedes ML I did with it looks great and that detail was back in October and the owner did several road trips back north this past winter.



I recommend it to folks who ask me about what they might be able to get locally they can apply themselves.



845 is also my current LSP on my wheels. I just washed them good and they still retain great loss and a silky feel. 845 is a great keeper, staple LSP. :xyxthumbs
 
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