Collinite 845 by hand

N

Newtodetail

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What is the best way to apply Collinite 845 by hand. With a round foam “wax” pad, or MF “applicator pad”, or somthing else? Thanks
 
Whatever media allows you to get it on as THIN as possible. Other than that, IW doesn't really care what it's applied with. :)
 
Worked well for me with the MF applicator. The MF held the 845 as well in the fibers, so I could make another pass on a small area without reloading the pad.
 
lw81 said:
how do you know if you've applied it thin. can you tell by looking at it?
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IME 845 doesn't have to go on *whisper*-thin the way some sealants do, so it just oughta look like, well...not really thick. I really do think it'll be intuitively obvious- you don't want thick, white residue, you want to aim for just enough that you can see a light haze after it dries.



As long as you have 845 on the applicator, and you move the applicator across the paint, you'll get enough 845 transfer for things to be OK.



Just keep in mind that 99.9% of any wax/845/whatever you can see on the paint gets buffed off anyhow, think of LSPs as bonding at the molecular level.



It's not like you need to use a whole ounce to do, say, a Suburban, that's a whole lot more than I use.
 
Yesterday I waxed a Mercedes CLS and an Audi Q5 and measured the wax before and after... I used 1 gram per car :). You don't always have to apply it that thinly, but you'll know if it's too thick. I always use an applicator and spread it until it becomes less and less visible then I add a bit more and always overlap.
 
lw81 said:
how do you know if you've applied it thin. can you tell by looking at it?
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If you notice any liquid missing from the bottle when you've finished the entire car, you applied it too thick. :)
 
I use a foam applicator too, tried MF but like foam better with waxes in general. Got to be careful when you "pour" 845 on any applicator, don't want to waste product, it has a tendency to glide off the pad. I normally hold it up to the bottle and turn it upside down, that'll give you enough wax to work with. Just watch out for that white build up in cracks and around trim, wipe it off before it dries.
 
I always tell friends to apply it thin enough you could read through it if it. Two thin coats are much better than one thick one. I really like the collinite products but if you're not careful you can make a mess with the pastes by putting it on thick and letting it sit for a while. Tough stuff!
 
Accumulator said:
IME 845 doesn't have to go on *whisper*-thin the way some sealants do, so it just oughta look like, well...not really thick. I really do think it'll be intuitively obvious- you don't want thick, white residue, you want to aim for just enough that you can see a light haze after it dries.



As long as you have 845 on the applicator, and you move the applicator across the paint, you'll get enough 845 transfer for things to be OK.



Just keep in mind that 99.9% of any wax/845/whatever you can see on the paint gets buffed off anyhow, think of LSPs as bonding at the molecular level.



It's not like you need to use a whole ounce to do, say, a Suburban, that's a whole lot more than I use.
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well said :2thumbs:. i have applied 845 this way for 36 years.
 
RdRover said:
.. Got to be careful when you "pour" 845 on any applicator... I normally hold it up to the bottle and turn it upside down, that'll give you enough wax to work with..
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Yeah, good point- avoid the pouring.



And I don't even use *that* liberal of a method! I hold the applicator over the mouth of the bottle and give it a little shake, then I try to squeeze/scrape as much of the 845 as possible back out of the applicator. I repeat this as needed after folding the applicator in half and rubbing the two halves together.



You want just enough 845 (or whatever LSP) to lubricate the applicator so it glides smoothly across the vehicle; I apply LSP as much by feel as by any visual cues.



I would *NEVER* actually "pour" 845, can't imagine pouring *any* LSP onto an applicator.



.. Just watch out for that white build up in cracks and around trim, wipe it off before it dries.
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Anything like that would also indicate that you're using *WAY* too much product, so if I saw that I'd stop and make adjustments.



I use 845 as a base for 476S in part to head off product build-up around things like pinstripes; the 845 goes on so thinly that there's *zero* buildup along the tape lines (well, at least when I apply it properly, i.e., thinly).
 
If the buffing off process removes 99.9% of the product you have applied, why does it matter whether or not the application is thick or thin?



Obviously it is wasting product and hurting your wallet, but are there other adverse effects of applying too thick?
 
While we are talking about it, what pressure do you apply when applying it?



And x2 on the running off the pad. It liquified for me [finally] and it is soupy, haha.
 
RogueM3 said:
If the buffing off process removes 99.9% of the product you have applied, why does it matter whether or not the application is thick or thin?



Obviously it is wasting product and hurting your wallet, but are there other adverse effects of applying too thick?
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The buffing *should* remove almost all of the product, but if it's really thick that won't always happen and the excess residue will remain in micro-fissures, the texture of trim, and along tape/trim/emblems. Sometimes thick, dried-on wax can be surprisingly difficult to clean off.



Similarly, excess product can lead to trim staining issues that wouldn't otherwise occur and can be a real PIA in textured trim.



Too thick and it might not dry/cure as quickly and/or uniformly. This has (supposedly, never happened for me) led to KSG "blooming" several days after application. Much greater chance of streaking or other such issues.



The excess can load up/overload the buffing media and I don't like rubbing dried product, even just wax, against my paint any more than necessary.



If you use some sort of glaze/etc. (and 845 seems to work fine over top of such stuff), too much LSP is more likely to affect a solvent action and make for issues.



Any one of the above could be enough of a PIA to make properly thin application worth doing IMO. Especially with 845, where interfering with the user-friendliness would negate one of the product's best features.
 
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