Coating cure times

I`ll post back when I get around to polishing the spot. I will tape off so that I`m working with a really small area and stay only in recessed area. I did 3 cars so will probably inspect the others so I can knock them out at one time.

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c5longhorn- Fingers crossed that everything goes smoothly.

FWIW, I myself wouldn`t tape it, I`d just be careful about where I got stuff...
 
c5longhorn said:
You wouldn`t tape it to repolish?
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No.

I`d do the Polishing by hand since it`s a small area, and I`ve (literally, as best I can recall) never needed/used tape when doing that; I just avoid the areas I don`t want to mess with.

But that`s just me and I sure don`t want to give advice that could cause you trouble!
 
c5longhorn said:
You wouldn`t tape it to repolish?

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c5longhorn - I also never tape around any area to re-compound-polish-etc., it.. If you use a machine, and compound/polish all the way to the tape, you might leave a "ridge" all around that area when you pull the tape off..

I sometimes, use a 1-inch backing plate and pad and carefully, really carefully, touch that spot, just enough to take out very small, defects that somehow got missed..

Hand polishing with 1 finger and a very soft, clean, white, cotton, cloth has always been better for me, when even the tiny pad just can`t get in there..
Dan F
 
Thanks Accumulator and Stokdgs. I really appreciate the input. I did also consider polishing by hand, but dismissed it at first as I didn`t think I achieved much correction when polishing by hand. I have M205 and Griot`s Perfecting Cream that I could use by hand on either a Lake County White or Orange 3.5 in. pad. I also could use a soft cotton applicator. It would be much simpler for such a small area.

Any particular tips or techniques when hand polishing?
 
Stokdgs said:
c5longhorn - I also never tape around any area to re-compound-polish-etc., it.. If you use a machine, and compound/polish all the way to the tape, you might leave a "ridge" all around that area when you pull the tape off..

I sometimes, use a 1-inch backing plate and pad and carefully, really carefully, touch that spot, just enough to take out very small, defects that somehow got missed..

Hand polishing with 1 finger and a very soft, clean, white, cotton, cloth has always been better for me, when even the tiny pad just can`t get in there..
Dan F
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Dan,

What brand of 1 in. backing plate and pads do you use? I have a Griot`s 3.5 in. polisher that I could probably add a small backing plate and pad combo to for tight spots.
 
c5longhorn said:
I did also consider polishing by hand, but dismissed it at first as I didn`t think I achieved much correction when polishing by hand..
Any particular tips or techniques when hand polishing?.
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Yes indeed, it can take a long, *long* time :( But with today`s stuff it`s not as bad as it used to be back when I`d spend literally *hours* (and I don`t mean just two or three) on things like fingernail scratches behind door handles.

I have M205 and Griot`s Perfecting Cream that I could use by hand on either a Lake County White or Orange 3.5 in. pad...
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I wouldn`t even use a 1" pad by machine, I`d absolutely do this by hand. (Note that Stokdgs is a Rotary-Meister who`d do that little job with that machine.)

Regulars here can already hear my usual rant about how I hate M205...[INSERT usual rant...]. Specifically, I wouldn`t want to deal with the Polishing Oils (especially on this particular job) or bothering to finish up with something that leaves it nicer. OK..that`s just me again and others love the stuff (wish they`d buy my gallon!).

BUT...I wouldn`t immediately reach for M205 for this anyhow since you`re correcting a scratch. I wouldn`t expect M205, used by hand to be sufficiently aggressive, at least not for doing this in a timely manner. While people do sometimes go off-label and do Correction with it, it`s a *Finishing Polish* that I only use to refine things after using a more aggressive combo has done the actual correction (and then I still have to follow up with something that finishes out better as M205 has never really satisfied me).

I`d work by hand, using something with sufficient cut to do the Correction in a timely manner, and then follow up with a milder approach.

I also could use a soft cotton applicator. It would be much simpler for such a small area.
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Every time I`ve polished using cotton I`ve had to follow up with MF to get the optimal finish. That might make the initial/more aggressive work, where you`re actually correcting the scratch, go quicker, just switch the the MF or foam *just before* you have the scratch completely eradicated. Finish the Correction with MF (or a little piece of foam), and use something like that with your Finishing Polish. That`ll not only give a good finish, but oughta be a good way to split the diff between "aggressive enough" and "able to finish out nicely".
 
c5longhorn said:
Dan,

What brand of 1 in. backing plate and pads do you use? I have a Griot`s 3.5 in. polisher that I could probably add a small backing plate and pad combo to for tight spots.
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c5Longhorn -- I use Lake Country Backing Plates and Lake Country Hydro-Tech Cyan Pads for most correction work. You may have to look for these things.

I found here at the Autopia Store, these -- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/buff-and-shine-1inch-rotary-backing-plate.html#.XsMDXkSpH3g

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/uro-tec-maroon-1-inch.html#.XsMD-kSpH3g

https://www.autopia-carcare.com/uro-tec-yellow-1-inch.html#.XsMEJ0SpH3g

The Backing Plate is for a Rotary, so you will need this adapter -- https://www.autogeek.net/buff-and-shine-da-adapter.html

I assume, they do not make a Random Orbital backing plate in the smaller sizes, so the only other option is the adapter above..

Regarding the scratch on the Viper, is this scratch so deep it needs a machine to remove it? I would always first try to remove anything with the least aggressive process first, and if no results, start ramping up.. This also applies to the product you choose to use..

I think you are using Griot`s products, so perhaps their Fast Correcting Cream, or their Correcting Cream would work for you..

I cannot really see the scratch that well in your picture. I would always try to remove it by hand as I explained earlier, and be really, really, careful near any sharp edge, which will always have the least amount of paint on that edge..
Dan F
 
Thanks Dan. I tried to take some more pics but the scratch doesn`t seem to show up. I`m going to follow the advice of you and Accumulator and start mild since overall the car looks good.
 
c5longhorn- The way I`m reading this, you`re dealing with a flaw that only Autopians would really notice. That`s good news IMO. If you get tired of [messing] with it I bet you`ll still have made it sufficiently better that it`ll only be visible to you. And then it`s just a matter of only caring as much as you need to ;)

And Stokdgs` comment about how thin paint usually is on edges just reinforces my opinion that this is a by-hand job. I do like using small pads on my (NON-rotary) polishers, but not for this one...Heh heh, the only time I`ve damaged clear was with a small pad on a PC..and that was with a mild product too!
 
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