Clear coating rims

D

davidl351

New member
Just recently I got some curb rash on my wheels with polished and clear coated lips. Last night I tried to sand the rashes down to make them less noticeable but failed. I've got the shallow ones down to a fingernail scratch, but there are still some deep rashes. Afterward I tried to re-polish and clear coat the rims, but the clear coat comes out ugly and runny (Rust-oleum Enamel Clear Coat can spray). I took the factory clear coat off with wet 400grit -> dry sand 1000g -> wet sand 1000g -> wet sand 2000g -> Mother's polish -> clear coat



I don't want to go with the polished look because of the maintenance and extra work to get the rest of the wheel uniform. How would you suggest layering on the clear coat so it doesn't come out runny and gloppy? Should I get the clear coat that comes in a bucket and slap it on with a brush? I was thinking of using a foam tip-thing and spreading it even. I tried to wet sand with 1000grit, but it still didn't get rid of the runs. Maybe I got the sanding process wrong pre-clear coat?



Any help would be appreciated!
 
I didn't know any clear coat comes in a bucket. 400 Grit Sand Paper wet cuts like 320 Grit Dry. For future reference you need to step through the Grits. 1000 Grit Sand Paper won't take out a 400 Grit Scratch. Wet or dry.



Real Clear Coat (the kind used on cars) can't come in a rattle can because it's a two part product (the Clear Coat + Activator) and once mixed it has a "pot life" measured in hours not days. That stuff in the rattle cans is usually Clear Enamel.



Now having said that, a new product came on the market a year or so ago called

Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat aerosol which is a two part Clear. Also there are some 1 part Clears that say they are as good as the two parts. In any case you would need to go to your local Autobody Supply Store and see what they got.



For your application problem I would say either the product wasn't thoroughly mixed (can not shaken enough) prior to use or the ambient air temperature wasn't high enough. You need air and part temps to be at or above 70 degrees.



Might also be your application method, holding the can too close to the part when applying, you need 6" to 8" inches between what your spraying with and the part.



Also look out for "Flash Time". This is the time between coats. It'll usually be listed on the product label. If you apply the first coat and don't wait long enough before doing another, that second coat won't have anything to "grab" on to and run off.



Greg
 
I didn't take the temperature into account. I did it in my open garage last night at about 12AM while it was drizzling outside.. I would say it was about 55.



Since you pointed out that the clear coat I have may be different from the wheel's factory clear coat, I'm wondering whether or not the clear coat will match up? Should there be any discoloration? And regarding the sanding: should I start at 400 -> 800 -> 1000 -> 1500 -> 2000, all wet? About how long should I be sanding down the area?



I didn't do a second coat after I saw how runny the first coat was.
 
Clear is Clear and there shouldn't be any issues with discoloration. However as I pointed out before the stuff from the factory is a two part Urethane Clear and the stuff in the rattle can is a 1 part Enamel.



You would only need to use the coarser grit of paper on the deep scratches or damage. But you used 400 on the whole wheel is that correct? Go over the wheel again with 600 wet then 800 wet and lastly with 1000 wet. That will take care of any sand scratches left from the 400 grit paper since Clear Coats can't "fill" that deep of a scratch.



Watch what your doing as you sand. You don't need to sand like forever but just till the scratches from the previously used grit of paper are gone.



55 degrees is too cold to paint. The part and the air need to be at least 65 degrees.

Shake the product well and pay attention to how close your holding the can to the part. If it's too close that can cause runs too. Should be about 6 to 8 inches away from the surface.



Greg
 
I do have some deeper sratches. With the 400, I did manage to reduce some of the finer scratches to a bare minimum. Now that I have the clear off the scratch areas, I'll do a better job of sanding.



So there shouldn't be a problem with the new clear molding with the old clear coat's paint edge? Should I sand them down if there are any even parts?
 
If you sanded one area with 400 grit paper you removed more material than what's left on areas that weren't. So in that respect you'll have a "hole" for lack of a better term.



Let's try to sum this up. If you sanded the entire wheel with 400 grit paper then go over the entire wheel as I suggested before 400-->600-->800-->1000 with the last 3 being used wet.



If you only sanded parts of the wheel with the 400 grit paper then go over those same parts with the same procedure until everything "feather's" out. There should not be any indication of where you started w/the 400 grit paper. That is no edges.
 
As MorBid mentioned, clear coat from the factory is different then the clear coat that you can purchase in a can. I've sanded out curb marks from polished lips of rims but I repainted the entire rim to change the color. I used DupliColor CC if that helps.
 
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