Clear coat failure, how to correct?

B

baseball07

New member
Hey guys, I just bought a used car and the clear on the hood is peeling pretty bad, but the color paint seems just fine under it. I am wondering what the best way to tackle this would be. Could I wet sand the areas of peeling, buff the whole hood out with a compound, then spray a fresh coat of clear over everything? The car is old so I am not looking for perfection, just something that is a DIY and will come out looking ok. I have a dual action buffer with buff and shine 5.5" orange and green pads. I have Meguiars UC and UP and an assortment of sealants.
 
A repaint is the only way to repair this. I have seen many try a re-shoot clear on top of old base coat but have not seen it to be successful.
 
Paul is correct. Once you open the base coat to weather it's all over. Needs to be repainted. You could certainly try to re-clear the hood but the simple fact that you are on this forum is a good sign that you won't be pleased with the result.

I assume you are not considering just spot clearing. If that is correct, then think about it this way. In order to re-clear your going to have to sand the hood to prep it correctly. Once it's been properly sanded it's all but ready for paint. Why wouldn't you then paint and clear when you're into it this deep?
 
Ok that's what I thought, thanks. How long after I apply the clear should I buff it (compound or polish)? If the clear is sprayed nice and even, is there any need to buff it?
 
baseball07 said:
Ok that's what I thought, thanks. How long after I apply the clear should I buff it (compound or polish)? If the clear is sprayed nice and even, is there any need to buff it?
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IF it's sprayed even and you are happy with the finish, then no, you don't need to sand/buff it. However, that is almost impossible to do with modern water-based clear coats, even when sprayed by an expert in a very controlled, dust-free paint booth.

How soon you can sand and polish depends on the amount of hardner mixed into the paint, the type of paint, and the environment it was sprayed. When I worked in a bodyshop we would sand, compound and polish 12 hours after painting.
 
Ok thanks, I am going to try and attempt this. I am going to use Duplicolor Universal Black and Duplicolor Clear Coat, both spray cans. The hood on my car (94 black Mercedes) is in such bad shape I think anything I attempt will look better.

My first concern is about the weather. It is going to be a high of around 55-60 degrees this weekend, humidity ~70%. Is this OK for painting or should I wait until the spring time?

My tentative procedure is the following.

1. Dry sand the clear off with 600 grit sand paper
2. Wipe the hood down with mineral spirits.
3. Apply first coat of base, let dry for 30 minutes
4. Apply second coat of base, let sit for 30 minutes.
5. Apply first coat of clear, let dry for 5 minutes
6. Apply second coat of clear, let dry for 5 minutes
7. Apply last coat of clear, let dry over night.
8. Wet sand with 1000 grit sandpaper
9. Buff with Meguiars UC and UP
10. Wax

Can anyone give some advice/suggestions? Are my sanding steps correct?

Also, would the 1 part clear be OK or should I invest in 2 part?
 
Are you sure you can lay down several even, wet coats of paint and clear with spray cans?

You are at the mercy of the nozzle, can pressure, and what exactly is in the can, how it was mixed and how much of each part was mixed to begin with...

I have seen people paint their cars with spray cans before and I have yet to see a good job..

The multiple coats of paint and clear have to be laid down as close as exactly the same, in a booth that is filtered and very clean...

Are you experienced in painting large panels ?

Dan F
 
rattle cans put out 1/2 the amount of clear as a body shop spray gun...pretty hard to get perfect gloss with rattle cans..don't ask me how I know...
 
glen e said:
rattle cans put out 1/2 the amount of clear as a body shop spray gun...pretty hard to get perfect gloss with rattle cans..don't ask me how I know...
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The closest one can currently get to a spray gun with an aerosol can is SprayMax 2K clear. It isn't a spray gun, but it's pretty darn close! Actually got a job offer from a body shop when they saw what I was able to achieve with a rattle can. No, the body shop was not Maaco... LOL
 
GearHead_1 said:
Paul is correct. Once you open the base coat to weather it's all over. Needs to be repainted. You could certainly try to re-clear the hood but the simple fact that you are on this forum is a good sign that you won't be pleased with the result.
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Let me say that I completely agree with this statement. ;)

Your on a detailing board because you appreciate a good paint job. What you are considering doing is about 10 steps down on the list of a good place to start. Even if you are able to lay the paint smoothly the durability isn't going to be there.
 
I appreciate the feedback. I have no prior experience in painting cars (except for a 4" x 4" rust spot I repaired and sprayed), However the hood is in such bad shape, a rattle job would look much better than how it looks now. I attached a pic of the hood. If the general thought here is that a spray can job is really THAT bad, then I will go ahead and either pay to have it done, or rent a booth and spray it the right way.
 

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Thanks for posting the picture of the Mercedes hood.

You would want to remove all the clearcoat, otherwise, it will start failing in the places that it was not removed, and ruin your paintwork..

In our Detailing world, the Preparation means everything..

How is the rest of the paint on the car? Have you polished it all so that it looks great ?

Is the rest of the paint starting to fail like the hood ?

Dan F
 
Paint on the rest of the car is great, swirl city, but there is no rust or any dents. I gave it a quick buff with UC and orange pad, but in the spring I am thinking to use a bit of a harsher product and/or pad to remove the rest of the swirls/scratches.
 
baseball07 said:
Paint on the rest of the car is great, swirl city, but there is no rust or any dents. I gave it a quick buff with UC and orange pad, but in the spring I am thinking to use a bit of a harsher product and/or pad to remove the rest of the swirls/scratches.
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That is great news that the rest of the paint is not failing !

Perhaps then you might be able to consider getting the hood (if that's the only place that is failing) repainted professionally and then the whole car would look super!

Good luck with this !

Dan F
 
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