Cleaning Microfiber
- Thread starter imported_suzukas2k
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Autofiber.com
New member
DFTowel said:
Maybe I can help explain why Micro-Restore is better than other detergents for cleaning microfiber than other detergents.
1. It is a very strong degreaser. If you notice when you get it on your hands, it really dries them out. In fact, the formula is a modification of a garage floor degreaser, and a wheel cleaner (removal of break dust).
This means that it is better at removing all of the tough oils, and grease that you get on your towels when cleaning a car. It is also well suited for removing wax and polish residue from your microfiber products.
2. The formula contains water softeners. Have you ever noticed that over time some of your towels seem to stiffen (especially some waffle-weaves), or become less absorbent? I have found that this is often caused by washing in hard water (water that contains high levels of calcium and magnesium). Just like fabric softeners, the calcium and magnesium minerals can clog the tiny pours in microfiber towels, making them more stiff and less absorbent. Micro-Restore makes sure these minerals are not left behind. Other detergents do not.
-Ian
SidiousXXX
New member
I use Castrol Super Clean, works great and low low cost.
SpoiledMan
New member
Good to see you around Ian!
BillyBarou
New member
Thanks Ian for that background. 
Evil Weevil
New member
Any UK suggestions?
I currently use Arial Handwash in lukewarm water. Gently rub any waxy/sealanty/cruddy areas, then leave for 30 mins. Then rinse under running cold water... lots... then leave in cold water for another few minutes before rinsing again. Dry outside in God's fresh air whenever possible.
What do other UK'ers do?
I currently use Arial Handwash in lukewarm water. Gently rub any waxy/sealanty/cruddy areas, then leave for 30 mins. Then rinse under running cold water... lots... then leave in cold water for another few minutes before rinsing again. Dry outside in God's fresh air whenever possible.
What do other UK'ers do?
superstring said:
Hot water will NOT harm any of your towels. NEVER. There is no way that the water is so hot as to cause damage, the most you have is maybe 140 F. You should see what is done to fabric in the final finishing process and the temperatures and pressures it goes through in a real live huge pressure cooker! The only reason why clothing makers recommed using cold water on some fabrics is that the dyes may not be colorfast or the fabric may shrink, you really don't care about either of those problems with your towels.
Autofiber.com said:
Well based on that explanation it is not a specific cleaner for MF at all It is either a solvent or a colloidal agent which holds oils, waxes, and grease in suspension. Have any tests been done on this mixture to determine the long term effects on petroleum based fibers such as polyester?
Autofiber.com
New member
DFTowel said:
Well...it was developed for the special needs of microfiber fabrics (in response to customer requests), but this doesn't mean that it can not be used for other applications. I don't know if this defines it as a "specific cleaner for MF", but it was developed and formulated for the special cleaning needs of microfiber fabric (that is microfiber in the common sense, not the DF microfiber, btw I dig your towels!).
We haven't done any scientific tests, but we do have about 3 years experience using the product on petroleum based fibers such as polyester (i.e. microfiber), with no adverse effects, only positive effects.
Remember, the formulation is concentrated, you only use 1-2 oz. of the product in an 8 gallon load. So the solution becomes quite diluted. There may be adverse effects if you soak your towels in pure Micro-Restore for extended periods of time, but this is not the recommended use of the product.
Hope this helps!
imported_lix
New member
Washing machine, regular detergent, 60degC, tumble dry until almost done then air. Some of my MF's have a 90degC on the label, but I never need to go that high.Evil Weevil said:
I save the Ariel Handwash for my wash mitts and foam applicators.
Evil Weevil
New member
Thanks lix - maybe I'll just byng mine in the machine - it would safe alot of faffing around! I'll give it a go.
Thanks for this thread. I've been wondering if what I'm doing is really the best, and you guys have given me some great ideas.
For background, I've been washing in a seperate load, using Tide's liquid detergent that doesn't have perfume, softeners, or coloring. Doube rinse cycle, then air dry on a rack. In FL humidity, that can take a while
Lately I've been adding Oxyclean in hopes of salvaging a few more smudge-stained MF towels. I'm not sure it's working. Being the paranoid sort that I am, I pre-disolve the powder in a glass of hot water to make sure I don't end up with undisolved oxyclean granuals trapped in my MF towels, but the Oxyclean seems to be outgassing a lot as I stir it up, so I'm probably not getting an effective dose.
Some comments/questions:
OK, not to be confrontational, but you do know that brake dust isn't greasy? It's a PITA to get out of MF - as bad as getting it off the wheel, but not because it's greasy. If it were greasy, it would make a lousy brake material. It's just a fine particle that's ideal for MF to latch onto. What's needed is to somehow "relax" the MF so it releases the particles. But that's only brake dust. I think grease (the black crud that seems to collect on the bottom edge of your body, and the bottom of doors) is what kills more MF towels prematurely.
So basically, then, any good degreaser is good. As long as it doesn't foam up and out of my washer, that is. Then I may be looking for a better degreaser than laundry detergent. So "Simple Green" or Castrol's purple A/P cleaner/degreaser ought to be good? Or Greased Lightening's "Orange Blast" A/P cleaner/degrease? "Orange Blast" degrease does a dynamite job on brake dust. I like it better than "Orange Blast wheel cleaner."
I'd describe local water supply as moderately hard, so this peaks my interest. The "red flag" that goes up in my mind, however, is that you're carrying through chemicals from the wash through the rinse cycles to treat the water. That doesn't sound good to me. I'd think you'd want a detergent that did everything possible to get the heck out of my MF towels, and not risk becomming a contaminant.
I can see adding vinegar to my rinse water. It'll tend to neutralize soaps if they're present (usually slightly caustic, but there's a difference between soaps and detergents), and it'll keep the minerals in the water disolved. It'll also evaporate easily, and as a side benefit, disinfects.
So if I'm worried about hard water during the wash cycle (since I'll now be using vinegar in the rinse), why not something like washing soda (Borax or Calgon)?
You might have a great product, but frankly, OTC stuff I can buy at the grocery store is a LOT more convenient. Unless your product can actually help me salvage some of those grungy MF towels we all seem to end up with sooner than we want, the convenience factor combined with shipping expenses dictate OTC solutions for me.
Thanks,
For background, I've been washing in a seperate load, using Tide's liquid detergent that doesn't have perfume, softeners, or coloring. Doube rinse cycle, then air dry on a rack. In FL humidity, that can take a while
Lately I've been adding Oxyclean in hopes of salvaging a few more smudge-stained MF towels. I'm not sure it's working. Being the paranoid sort that I am, I pre-disolve the powder in a glass of hot water to make sure I don't end up with undisolved oxyclean granuals trapped in my MF towels, but the Oxyclean seems to be outgassing a lot as I stir it up, so I'm probably not getting an effective dose.
Some comments/questions:
Autofiber.com said:
OK, not to be confrontational, but you do know that brake dust isn't greasy? It's a PITA to get out of MF - as bad as getting it off the wheel, but not because it's greasy. If it were greasy, it would make a lousy brake material. It's just a fine particle that's ideal for MF to latch onto. What's needed is to somehow "relax" the MF so it releases the particles. But that's only brake dust. I think grease (the black crud that seems to collect on the bottom edge of your body, and the bottom of doors) is what kills more MF towels prematurely.
So basically, then, any good degreaser is good. As long as it doesn't foam up and out of my washer, that is. Then I may be looking for a better degreaser than laundry detergent. So "Simple Green" or Castrol's purple A/P cleaner/degreaser ought to be good? Or Greased Lightening's "Orange Blast" A/P cleaner/degrease? "Orange Blast" degrease does a dynamite job on brake dust. I like it better than "Orange Blast wheel cleaner."
I'd describe local water supply as moderately hard, so this peaks my interest. The "red flag" that goes up in my mind, however, is that you're carrying through chemicals from the wash through the rinse cycles to treat the water. That doesn't sound good to me. I'd think you'd want a detergent that did everything possible to get the heck out of my MF towels, and not risk becomming a contaminant.
I can see adding vinegar to my rinse water. It'll tend to neutralize soaps if they're present (usually slightly caustic, but there's a difference between soaps and detergents), and it'll keep the minerals in the water disolved. It'll also evaporate easily, and as a side benefit, disinfects.
So if I'm worried about hard water during the wash cycle (since I'll now be using vinegar in the rinse), why not something like washing soda (Borax or Calgon)?
You might have a great product, but frankly, OTC stuff I can buy at the grocery store is a LOT more convenient. Unless your product can actually help me salvage some of those grungy MF towels we all seem to end up with sooner than we want, the convenience factor combined with shipping expenses dictate OTC solutions for me.
Thanks,
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
I feel it necessary to point out that it is my understanding that a primary function of most detergents is to soften the water to allow for proper cleaning, so Micro-Restore is hardly unique in that regard.
Autofiber.com
New member
Arved said:
I am not here trying to make a hard sell of the product. I am just answering questions about how MicroRestore is different than other detergents. The primary difference is the strength at which it cleans. I don't want to try and get into all the technical stuff, as I am not a chemist.
I am sure that if you spend enough time and effort you will be able to find the best way for you to clean your microfiber, weather that includes Micro-Restore I do not know, as with everything it is best to do what gives you the best results.
I have done lots of non-scientific tests that lead me to belive that this formula is "one of the best" for cleaning microfiber. Not to say that other products, or combinations of products could yield similar results. It was developed in response to customer (mostly professional laundries that wash thousands of towels a day, where each towel can be washed multiple times a day) inquiries about how to safely and effectively clean microfiber.
Truth be told, there are a lot of happy Micro-Restore customers out there, I get calls everyday from people to love the product. But there are also lots of skeptics, that think that it is a gimmik. Only you can decide which category you fall into. I am not trying to rip anyone off, just provide a solution to the problem of cleaning microfiber towels.
Thanks for your input Autofibre guy.
I don't use Micro-Restore...I use Pakshak's Micropak MF cleaner, which may be the same thing re-labled. :nixweiss
I use that, and another mild liquid laundry detergent. Of the two, Micropak works the best and leaves the MF cleaner and clingier with less rinsing - which is what defines a good result, to me.
The thing one must decide is the cost/benefit ratio of a product. IMO, specialised MF detergents will produce a better result with less effort, but at a much higher cost. Is it worth it? Maybe...depending on what you think is important.
For me, the cost of specialised detergents is very high (international shipping and currncy conversion), so when this lot is finished I'll be trying various supermarket liquids to see if I can get equal results. If my quest is unfruitful, I'll look at Micro-Restore or similar.
Arved, some input for you. You're right in being cautious about dissolving powdered detergents before adding it to the wash.
I spray the really dirty areas of my MF with a eucalyptus-based prewash stain remover (good for grease/wax and bought cheaply at the supermarket), and let them sit for a few minutes before washing.
I do a warm-hot water fill, then start the wash for a minute and pause it, then let them soak for an hour before re-starting. I add a splash of vinegar in the final rinse, and when that's finished I re-rinse with just water - two rinses in total. I line dry them until nearly dry, then throw them in the dryer (on warm) until they're dry, to fluff them up and restore the correct static charge.
They look and work as good as the day I bought them. :up
I hope this helps.
I don't use Micro-Restore...I use Pakshak's Micropak MF cleaner, which may be the same thing re-labled. :nixweiss
I use that, and another mild liquid laundry detergent. Of the two, Micropak works the best and leaves the MF cleaner and clingier with less rinsing - which is what defines a good result, to me.
The thing one must decide is the cost/benefit ratio of a product. IMO, specialised MF detergents will produce a better result with less effort, but at a much higher cost. Is it worth it? Maybe...depending on what you think is important.
For me, the cost of specialised detergents is very high (international shipping and currncy conversion), so when this lot is finished I'll be trying various supermarket liquids to see if I can get equal results. If my quest is unfruitful, I'll look at Micro-Restore or similar.
Arved, some input for you. You're right in being cautious about dissolving powdered detergents before adding it to the wash.
I spray the really dirty areas of my MF with a eucalyptus-based prewash stain remover (good for grease/wax and bought cheaply at the supermarket), and let them sit for a few minutes before washing.
I do a warm-hot water fill, then start the wash for a minute and pause it, then let them soak for an hour before re-starting. I add a splash of vinegar in the final rinse, and when that's finished I re-rinse with just water - two rinses in total. I line dry them until nearly dry, then throw them in the dryer (on warm) until they're dry, to fluff them up and restore the correct static charge.
They look and work as good as the day I bought them. :up
I hope this helps.
tom p.
Active member
^^^ up ^^^
citizen arcane
New member
Holy old thread Batman!
I wash mine in descending order of use:
Waffle weave drying towels first w/ the faintest amount of laundry detergent on cool/cold and extra rinse/spin.
On to plush polish/wax mfs w/ recommended amount of detergent on hot/cool or warm/cool depending on how long they sat and a double dollop of vinegar at the extra rinse/spin.
Utilities get hot/cool and and extra amount detergent and a dollop of vinegar at the extra rinse/spin.
Wool mitts get the last washing in cold/cold, no detergent and extra rinse/spin.
Drying:
Waffle weaves, polishing cloths and mitts get hung to dry in the garage - utilities go in the dryer at whatever the wife left it at last - watch out for the dryer sheets :heelclick
I wash mine in descending order of use:
Waffle weave drying towels first w/ the faintest amount of laundry detergent on cool/cold and extra rinse/spin.
On to plush polish/wax mfs w/ recommended amount of detergent on hot/cool or warm/cool depending on how long they sat and a double dollop of vinegar at the extra rinse/spin.
Utilities get hot/cool and and extra amount detergent and a dollop of vinegar at the extra rinse/spin.
Wool mitts get the last washing in cold/cold, no detergent and extra rinse/spin.
Drying:
Waffle weaves, polishing cloths and mitts get hung to dry in the garage - utilities go in the dryer at whatever the wife left it at last - watch out for the dryer sheets :heelclick