SupeBee364 said:
It seems like Accumulator had a..."how to" for decon systems...
Yeah, I'm sure I've posted this before but searches never work all that great for *me* so I figure some stuff is worth rehashing now and then. So:
I've had enough rust-blooms on white and silver vehicles to be a firm believer in decontamination systems. And note that I've been claying since detailing clay came out in the early '90s. Clay, polishes, and paint cleaners simply do not, IME, work as well for this as the decon systems; I've *finally* put an end to recurring rust-blooms on my silver vehicles. The other approaches work great if/when the ferrous contamination is only in the LSP or only *very lightly* contaminating the paint, but for real *contamination* I'd recommend a decon system.
I've only used the AutoInt ABC system, I have the first/alkaline step of the FK one here but I got rid of the car I was gonna use it on. SO...I can only comment on the AutoInt/ValuGard system.
I've used this on a fair number of vehicles (including my beloved S8 when it was brand new) and I've never had any problems of any kind. BUT I don't use the acidic step on not-newish *Audi* vehicles that have aluminum trim for fear of what the acid might do to said trim should the factory finish (anodizing/etc.) be compromised, which is usually is. In a case of extreme oxidation I'd use it, I'd just take precautions regarding the trim, which wouldn't be all *that* big a deal. IMO it's using an acidic wheel cleaner on aluminum wheels that have a compromised coating...you can do it, but you need to do it *right* to avoid problems, and you shouldn't do it at all without a good reason.
The first/"A"/alkaline step is really just a super-shampoo that strips off (at least most of) whatever's on the finish (old wax/sap/tar/etc.). You mix it up in a bucket (don't try to make suds, they'll never stop
), wash the car in a conventional manner and then rinse it off. It cleans *VERY* well, *WAY* better than Dawn/etc. and sorta like a PrepSol wipedown It's never damaged any plastic/etc. for me but, like PrepSol, I wouldn't use it every week either
The second/"B"/acidic step is used straight, no dilution. I put it in a squeeze bottle and apply it with a terry-covered sponge. I try to keep it *off* the glass and brightwork but I don't obsess over it either. You have to keep it wet, don't let it dry on the finish. This proved easier in practice than I was expecting; doing the minivan in a fairly hot garage in the summer was no problem at all, but don't try it in the sun. While the acid dwells I also clay any areas that seem to need it- note that the clay doesn't last long when used this way. Then you rinse it off. I'll often do a second or even third application if there appears to be any trace of remaining ferrous contamination (rust blooms/etc.). IMO the acid is quite mild, much more so than I was expecting. I do wear gloves though, for both the "A" and "B" steps. Otherwise it smarts if you get it in an open cut and I have sorta sensitive skin anyhow. Note that "milder/easier than I was expecting" was my primary impression of this step.
The third/"C"/ph-neutral step is the regular Valugard shampoo, which doesn't impress me much. Note that, being ph-neutral, it doesn't really neutralize/counteract the acid, it just washes off whatever might remain following the earlier rinse. It has a cool green color and its relative lack of lubricity probably doesn't matter as everything is very clean by this point anyhow. But I just use my regular shampoos instead (I now only order the "A" and "B" products).
As I noted, I've only used the ABC, not the FK, but I *did* buy the FK alkaline step for a "super-shampoo" to use on used cars that I buy and other sorta-nasty detailing projects. We'll see if it's as horrible-smelling as I've heard (and I've heard it's mighty awful, as in, throw-away-that-mitt awful). I've discussed the two systems at considerable length with the people at both FK and AutoInt and, while I don't want to badmouth anything that I haven't tried, I am utterly confident that I didn't make a mistake going with the AutoInt ABC instead of the FK. I don't think anybody will go *wrong* with the FK system, but I decided to go the other way and I've been perfectly happy with ABC. So why did I buy the FK alkaline step? Because a) I was curious about it and b)I could get it in a small quantity.
Some people have implied that after decon you don't need to use a paint cleaner/polish/etc. but I dunno...I've always used at least a cleaner or very mild polish, even on brand-new vehicles. Yeah, things were squeaky clean but I still thought it'd be a good idea. And how many vehicles are *really* 100% marring-free
But if you don't have an issue with marring you could *probably* go straight to LSP. I myself...well, I'd always use at least *something* first and there are plenty of products that'd only take 10-15 minutes, even on something big like a Suburban.
Now if I can just remember this thread next time the topic comes up I can save myself some typing