***CLAY BAR - create new scratches????***

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imported_magnum

New member
I have never used clay before, everyone can't say enough about it. Can claying create new scratches? I know that I use it after the wash but do I do my entire car to ensure it is fully prepped for cleaner/sealant? Or, do people not clay the entire car?



My thought is that clay will trap dirt or contaminants that will stay in the clay. then when you continue to use the clay it will allow whatever is trapped to scratch the surface you moved to. Am I way off on this one?
 
magnum said:
My thought is that clay will trap dirt or contaminants that will stay in the clay. then when you continue to use the clay it will allow whatever is trapped to scratch the surface you moved to. Am I way off on this one?
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Your thought is accurate which is why you should constantly monitor your clay as you are working to pick out any contaminants and re-roll / flatten the clay..



To answer your other question the entire vehicle exterior should be clayed as needed. Get a platic bag, put it over your hand and gently swipe it on the cleansed paint, if you feel roughness it needs to be clayed
 
You are not way off ... you are right to be thinking about this. :think2



As your clay surface picks up contaminants, continually fold/knead the clay to expose a clean surface. After a certain number of uses, even this process won't allow you to create a clean clay surface and you should delegate that clay for the trash can, or maybe for glass or wheels.



If you ever drop a piece of clay bar, do not try to salvage it for use as you'll never get out all the grit.
 
You should clay your whole car if it needs it. One good way to tell if every area needs it is, place a plastic sandwich bag over your hand. Then run your hand over you ALREADY WASHED car surface. You will be able to feel the roughness and the grittiness on the paints surface if there are contaminants.



The key to avoid inducing new scratches is clay a small section and then *knead* your clay bar to create a fresh clay surface. Do not do your whole car without kneading your clay. By doing this the contaminants get embedded in the clay and it helps them stay clear of your finish. Once you are unable to obtain a fresh surface free of debris by kneading your clay, you should replace it. A lot of people break off pieces of clay and that seems to extend the life of the bar.
 
Also be sure to start with the right clay. Some clays mar paint quite easily and even Sonus green has been reported as having done it on very soft paint when the clay was used cold.



I use small pieces and then relegate them to wheels/etc., but I do go through a lot of clay that way.
 
What kind of car and what is the condition of the car?



If clay is not used properly, it will induce scratches/marring. Use a mild clay grade, and use LOTS of lubricant, especially if the car is in decent shape. Don't scrub your car with the clay with pressure. Let the clay glide on the surface until it is smooth.



Break up your clay into 3 peices and use one at a time. If you drop it, throw it out, you will pick up dirt/sand that will definitely scratch.



Motor City, Smprince, General Lee & Accumulator are spot on the advice.
 
these are some great suggestions!



I was planning on using meg's clay/spray. The car is an 05 nissan/white and just looks so dull. I was going to use something inexpensive such as this system:

1. wash

2. clay (if recommended)

3. megs cleaner wax step 1

4. megs polish step 2

5. NXT2.0 topcoat



I know there are better ones out but it is a daily driver. I would rather have durability with protection versus appearance. Let me know if I am off with this.
 
magnum- On a white vehicle I' *definitely* clay it. If you don't you could get "rust-blooms" from ferrous contamination. Not only do they look bad on white, but once they get established they can be very, very difficult to remove. Best to clean things before they get started.



When you said "Cleaner Wax Step One" did you mean the Step One Cleaner of the Deep Crystal system? OR did you mean another Meguiar's product that's actually a cleaner-wax (the DC Step #1 Cleaner doesn't have wax in it)?



I really don't like the Meg's Deep Crystal sytem as there are better approaches that are at least as easy to do. But as OTC approaches go I suppose it's not a bad choice. IF it were mine and I *had* to use OTC stuff I'd consider using Color-X instead and topping that with the NXT.



But then if it were me I'd find some Collinite 845 Insulator Wax instead of the NXT (it's available OTC in some areas) ;)
 
What brands of clay are less aggressive or less mar-inducing? I just clayed an almost new vehicle with 4 star clay and lube and got marring. I'll probably live with it until next year to give it a polish with a white LC pad, PC, and Ultima Paint Prep to see if that combo will take out the minor marring from the clay. It's a mini van so it has lots of surface area to polish. Other than the minor marring, the claying and UPGP made the red flake paint on the mini van look great and feel smooth.



The Mothers clay I used last year seemed extremely mild but I used it on an older car that was destined for polishing so don't know exactly how mild it was.
 
Rob22315 said:
What brands of clay are less aggressive or less mar-inducing? ...

The Mothers clay I used last year seemed extremely mild but I used it on an older car that was destined for polishing so don't know exactly how mild it was.
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The Mother's is a good choice for middle-of-the-road claying. It's not super-gentle like the Sonus green Ultra-Fine but it should still be gentle enough not to mar (ditto for the apparently identical Griot's clay). If you use them properly/gently they shouldn't mar normal paint (there are some stupid-soft clears out that that I simply dunno about, but these clays don't mar any of my vehicles when I use them).



I hear the ClayMagic Blue is safe but I haven't tried it.



But yeah, the clays that don't mar are sometimes too gentle for some cleanups, that's the catch-22.
 
Also, try to avoid claying in cold weather.



If you must, then keep the clay warm. I use a hairdrier or the cars heating.



Another thing is to keep the clay clean.



On the more neglected cars I do, say 2 years plus daily driver no claying before, I do 2 or 3 passes with the clay bar. first is super soft pass, only a few strokes to try an pick up the larger particles and, most importantly, identify where the scratch inducing particles are in the area I am working. I then wipe the clay with MF - picking ut any particles frm the clay.



Second pass is to take out the @audible@ paricles working the specfic area. If you listen when claying you will hear them. Final pass is to level the remaining.



Lastly, when I clay, I get up really close to the paint. If the angle is right and the light is good, you can see some of the imperfections and particles that the claybar removes.



Honda owner with super soft clear
 
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