*Cheap* replacement for CRSpotless

make sure the availability says "Available" and not "back order"



also, the Big Blue 20" filter housing is designed for 20" x 2.5" filters not the 20" x 5" filters



edit: here is an example from their page:



Custom Aquatic Page said:
20 in White/White Filter Housing, 3/4 in inlet-outlet port

Product #RO-FLFH-8000WW34PR



Availability: In stock

Description: 20 inch white filter housing with 3/4 inch FPT inlet and outlet ports. Includes a built in pressure relief. For Reverse Osmosis and D.I. water filtration systems. White housing body with a white cap

Brand: Generic





Product Information



Product Description:



20 inch white filter housing with 3/4 inch FPT inlet and outlet ports. Includes a built in pressure relief. For Reverse Osmosis and D.I. water filtration systems. White housing body with a white cap.



Shipment Dimensions:



* Weight: 3.6 lb

* Height: 22 in

* Width: 5 in

* Depth: 5 in



Product Shipping: Usually ships same day



Product # RO-FLFH-8000WW34PR



Notice above that it says designed for DI Water filtration systems, and the width is 5" to accommodate the larger 20" x 4" DI Filters I posted previous



Custom Aquatic Site said:
20 in Blue/Black Filter Housing, 1/2 in inlet-outlet ports

Back Order

Product #RO-CP158205



Availability: Back Order

Description: 20 inch Filter housing for 20 inch by 2.5 inch filter elements. Blue body with black top and 1/2 inch FPT inlet-outlet. This item is a special order item only

Brand: Generic





Product Information



Product Description:



20 inch Filter housing for 20 inch by 2.5 inch filter elements. Blue body with black top and 1/2 inch FPT inlet-outlet. This item is a special order item only.



Shipment Dimensions:



* Weight: 3 lb

* Height: 6 in

* Width: 4 in

* Depth: 2 in



Product Shipping: Usually ships same day



Product # RO-CP158205
 
well the filters on the first page are rated in grains about 300 grains per filter for a 10" x 2.5" filter, so by my estimates (note this isn't going to be really scientific) :)



you are doubling the length and adding 2" to the size of the filter (width).

I just hope I am right with this :) I know I'll be called out if I am not!!! :)



stay with me



300 grains / 25 (10" filter x 2.5" wide) = 12 grains per inch



so...

12 grains * (10 * 2) = 240 extra grains (10 = the extra length of the filter, and 2 = the extra width of the filter)



so



we know that 1 filter = 300 grains

2 is 600 and add the additional estimated 240 grains and you have:



600 + 240 = 840 grains????



with an average water hardness of 7 nationwide, 840 / 7 = 120 gallons of DI Water before replacement
 
Good heads-up on the size differences, for sure.



The inline TDS gauge they sell has John Guest quick-connect style connections on it. Not sure how to adapt those to fit a garden hose. I definitely want to do the inline TDS meter, though, as it's a big benefit to see how many GPM you can push through the system before the TDS starts to climb.



Really good stuff you've found here, bwalker25. Much appreciated.
 
no problem supe, just tryin to help out.



It says that on the inline meter its "sensors" on inside those John Guest quick-connects, what about taking the sensors out and drilling a hole in the hose pipe (inlet side) and seal it up with silicon caulking. and put the other on the outlet side same procedure and get double sided "servo" tape or adhesive tape if you will and mount it to the filter housing ???



I'd draw it all out, but it'd be even more confusing than that above post is :)
 
now that we all know the Custom Aquatic site, with the links to the products, how long before the enfamous Autopia Effect takes place?
 
Inline Dual TDS Meters DM-1 and DM-2 | Pet Solutions



there is a picture of the "same" inline tds meter, it says it includes two 1/4 John Guest Fittings. but It has a with the meter and the sensor leads...should be an easy tap and mount no hard work required! :)



91100005.jpg




note: the dm-2 inline tds meter has a more waterproof case and longer leads....



but I'd still buy it from Custom Aquatic, save some on shipping and buy it all from 1 place. Plus you have the option to make them "ship order complete" I dont like back orders and Its just a plus :)



i've got the filter and cartridge on order, let me know if you get the TDS meter ;) and how well it works
 
I use a company out of Orlando that drops me a set of DI tanks and about every 1100 to 1200 gallons of water produced with bringing a TDS from 550 down to 3. They charge me 134.00 with delivery each time. Easy for me.
 
PERFECTION1 said:
TDS from 550 down to 3.



Where does that water come from? Extremely hard water is in the 350-400 ppm range. 550 is insane. That would kill filters in no time.
 
bwalker25 said:
now that we all know the Custom Aquatic site, with the links to the products, how long before the enfamous Autopia Effect takes place?



If this was spring time, I bet they'd be sold out by now. :)



bwalker25 said:
Inline Dual TDS Meters DM-1 and DM-2 | Pet Solutions



there is a picture of the "same" inline tds meter, it says it includes two 1/4 John Guest Fittings. but It has a with the meter and the sensor leads...should be an easy tap and mount no hard work required! :)



91100005.jpg




note: the dm-2 inline tds meter has a more waterproof case and longer leads....



but I'd still buy it from Custom Aquatic, save some on shipping and buy it all from 1 place. Plus you have the option to make them "ship order complete" I dont like back orders and Its just a plus :)



i've got the filter and cartridge on order, let me know if you get the TDS meter ;) and how well it works



Oh, I'll definitely be getting at least the TDS meter, and probably some new filter housings and filters, too. Problem is it's gonna be spring before I get the stuff. As I write this, it's five degrees outside. Five. Man, I hate winter. But I'm bookmarked and subscribed... Thanks to your help, we're gonna have some CRSpotless killing machines come spring time.



I'd love to see how they integrated the TDS meter into a CR Spotless. Maybe we can get some rich (;) ) CRSpotless owner to take a few detailed pics.



Denzil said:
Hehe, I think I'll wait for Supe to compose his system and do a write-up/how-to. Is that alright Supe? ;)



LOL, but of *course*, Denzil! But I'm thinking we'll all be following bwalker25 on this one. Looks like he's putting together a very sweet system.
 
The DI filters can't be recharged right? But the anti sediment one's can???



I'm trying to understand all this, sorry about all the dumb questions. I'm thinking about getting two housings and setting one up with a DI filter and one with an anti sediment filter. I don't do detailing professionally, just my own cars. They should last a while I would think, right?
 
PistolWhip said:
The DI filters can't be recharged right? But the anti sediment one's can???



I'm trying to understand all this, sorry about all the dumb questions. I'm thinking about getting two housings and setting one up with a DI filter and one with an anti sediment filter. I don't do detailing professionally, just my own cars. They should last a while I would think, right?



Not dumb questions at all! :)



I've never used an anti-sediment filter. I know Auto Geek is really pro-sediment filter, and I think there's a couple Autopians that are, too, but IMO and IME, they aren't necessary. The most important thing, IMO, is to get good DI water to keep the dreaded water spots under control.



You are (mostly) correct that true DI filters can't be recharged, in the conventional water-softening sense of soaking them in salt water. They can be recharged using some strong acids and bases, but it's a dangerous process, and ends up being more expensive than just replacing the media. Alot of folks around here buy CRSpotless's bulk media, then just open up their filter cartridges, dump out the used stuff, and fill it up with the new media.



This here.... Costco - CR SPOTLESS De-ionized Water Filtration System is the Big Daddy of DI filters. And that link is the cheapest place to buy it at. Huuuuuuuge thanks to NSXtasy for providing that link. If you're gonna buy a CRSpotless, that link is definitely the place to do it.



And if you want to save a few bucks, you can throw together your own DIY system, as this thread describes. Although I think I'd wait and see how BWalker25's system comes together rather than doing the one that I describe earlier in the thread; his system looks to be quite a bit less expensive, and every bit as good.
 
bwalker25 said:
............I think if its good enough for a fish to live in its good enough to filter water for my car.
Good find bwalker25. I find it isn't hard to get the water quality we want, but getting it at an adequate flow to do a useful car rinse is the trick.



Even the Mr. Clean AutoDry filter prevents spots but the flow rate is anemic at best.



Then a vendor starts touting the "Rechargeable Water softening cartridge" as the answer to an economical spot-free rinse. Well, almost but not quite as I find out after using it and then reading SuperBees' same conclusion in his quest for the economical spot-free filter.



Then I built the same basic two filter system that Supe outlined in the beginning of this thread. The DI filters work pretty well but I have to guess at how much water pressure I can use. Too little and it's almost as frustrating as the Mr. Clean AutoDry. Too much pressure and the filters don't have the time/capacity to filter and you wind up with spots.



I guess the answer is a good in-line TDS meter, and now these larger capacity filters are looking pretty good. If someone doesn't figure out an easy way to do an in-line TDS meter I guess I'll just buy a cheap handheld and get some benchmark readings from it.
 
Thanx SuperBee that answers allot of my questions! I was at Lowes tonight and saw quite a few sediment filter systems that are big enough and efficient enough to filter an entire house water system of sediment and chlorine. They were no more than $50 or so bucks. I guess the difference is that they don't help with the deionizing. I always thought it was the sediment that caused the spots so this thread really schooled me.

I'll definitely be watching this thread.
 
SuperBee364 said:
I'd love to see how they integrated the TDS meter into a CR Spotless. Maybe we can get some rich (;) ) CRSpotless owner to take a few detailed pics.



Not one of the *rich* guys, but here are some pics. Let me know if you need more.



Yes, I know it's dirty. :D



IMG_0095.jpg




IMG_0092.jpg
 
hmm looks like they tapped the top of the filter housing and incased the wire leads in rubber heat shrink. an easy job if you ask me, simple silicon caulking (like used to seal bathtubs) should do the trick nicely. wouldn't take longer than 5 minutes to do.



for the record I didn't get the TDS meter. perhaps that will be my next purchase.



the caulking is for waterproofing, and to help hold the sensor in place (that or super glue).



edit: thanks for the pictures! Dont everyone thank me, its all Superbee's doings he started this thread, and this whole community has made me a better detailer! I am just doing my part ;) trying to help out. Thanks guys
 
For those who know: how many gals. of water for a "normal" wash on a car?



Just a thought - what if one were to use a lesser DI system than CRS and fill a tank then boost output w/ a 60-80 psi pump to hose end or pressure washer?



Also what TDS readings do you guys get w/ your DI water?
 
Eliot Ness said:
Good find bwalker25. I find it isn't hard to get the water quality we want, but getting it at an adequate flow to do a useful car rinse is the trick.



Even the Mr. Clean AutoDry filter prevents spots but the flow rate is anemic at best.



Then a vendor starts touting the "Rechargeable Water softening cartridge" as the answer to an economical spot-free rinse. Well, almost but not quite as I find out after using it and then reading SuperBees' same conclusion in his quest for the economical spot-free filter.



Then I built the same basic two filter system that Supe outlined in the beginning of this thread. The DI filters work pretty well but I have to guess at how much water pressure I can use. Too little and it's almost as frustrating as the Mr. Clean AutoDry. Too much pressure and the filters don't have the time/capacity to filter and you wind up with spots.



I guess the answer is a good in-line TDS meter, and now these larger capacity filters are looking pretty good. If someone doesn't figure out an easy way to do an in-line TDS meter I guess I'll just buy a cheap handheld and get some benchmark readings from it.



Those are my exact frustrations with the system I made. And it looks like both issues will be solved now. Thanks to Blk45's pictures, putting an in-line TDS meter in my setup will be cake. Replacing the filters with the larger ones from Bwalker25's supplier should solve our GPM woes.



FWIW, I've been turning off my PW, then just using line pressure through the PW when I'm using the DI filters. It's not alot of flow, but it *is* better than the Mr. Clean alternative. ;)



PistolWhip said:
Thanx SuperBee that answers allot of my questions! I was at Lowes tonight and saw quite a few sediment filter systems that are big enough and efficient enough to filter an entire house water system of sediment and chlorine. They were no more than $50 or so bucks. I guess the difference is that they don't help with the deionizing. I always thought it was the sediment that caused the spots so this thread really schooled me.

I'll definitely be watching this thread.



Yeah, it's the hard water minerals that cause the dreaded spots. Traditional soft water filters just end up leaving sodium spots behind. DI water is *the* ticket for spot free cars.



bwalker25 said:
hmm looks like they tapped the top of the filter housing and incased the wire leads in rubber heat shrink. an easy job if you ask me, simple silicon caulking (like used to seal bathtubs) should do the trick nicely. wouldn't take longer than 5 minutes to do.



for the record I didn't get the TDS meter. perhaps that will be my next purchase.



the caulking is for waterproofing, and to help hold the sensor in place (that or super glue).



edit: thanks for the pictures! Dont everyone thank me, its all Superbee's doings he started this thread, and this whole community has made me a better detailer! I am just doing my part ;) trying to help out. Thanks guys



Yup, should be a quick install! I was way off on how to do this... I was thinking about trying to adapt the John Guest fittings to a hose! Tapping into the housing is going to be much easier.



Blk45, those pics are exactly what we needed. Huge thanks! :D
 
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