CarPro Trix help

reaper8253

reaper8253

New member
Hey guys. A little advice would be appreciated. I’ve used carpro trix with success in the past with no issues.
Today I followed the same procedure. Spray it on, let it dwell for five minutes, and hosed it off. And it seemed to have “stained” the paint. It was done in outside with some sunlight as I’ve done in the past and the paint was cool to the touch. I then continued with the normal wash and it still remained.

Have attempted to remove the spots with clay and also attempted to polish it out. Even with a microfiber cutting pad on a flex 3401, it doesn’t seem to remove it enough.

Any suggestions would be great. Thanks for your help in advance
Steve
 
No real advice except go over to the CarPro Forum and ask the question there and some from CarPro will answer. I’ve used Trix many times with no problems.

Just for information can you provide the make, model, year, and paint color of your vehicle?
 
The car is a 1970 Chevelle SS 396 in Mist Green Metallic with black stripes. I’m going to call carpro in the morning and see what they have any ideas.
 
No it’s has a few layers of clear. Not sure how many. It was repainted when it was completely restored in 1990
 
Is Trix the one that had the fluorescent green dye in it, in the early versions? Or was that only Tar-X? Have you used it on this car before? I can imagine that green dye being almost impossible to remove if it`s penetrated into the clearcoat. I seem to remember someone staining some plated metal like wheel weights or calipers with Sonax FE wheel cleaner which had a similar dye in it way back when.

Or is that not the kind of stain you`re seeing?
 
I haven’t used it on this car before and the there was no green dye. It turned deep red/purple when it activated.
 
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Ouch! I`d say the solvent in the Trix did something to the clear...you say the car was restored and cleared in 1990? Do you know if it was 2K clear?
 
I’m unsure. It was done by the previous owner and although I have a complete binder of every step of the restoration, it does not have anything about the paint.


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Wondering if it`s the tar remover solvents part that is what have what I think is a chemical etching. These applyied even on a modern clearcoat in the sun gets aggressive fast when the suns hits it. Tar removers can desolve some paints. And since it`s an old clearcoat I think that is what could have happened sadly.

I`m surely hope I`m wrong with what I think it is. Contact Carpro and see what they says. And or if anyone else have a knowledge of what it is.

To correct it if it`s chemical etching. It`s not more than compounding so you come down under the etching. Maybe even wet sanding if it`s a lot of clearcoat that needs to be leveled down. This is the last way out and see if you get any other suggestions that are more gentle. Do you have a paint thickness gauge PTG? Maybe not so much of help on a repainted car. If the restoration pictures you have don`t if the sanded the old paint off. But it can help you out with knowing the amount of clearcoat you abrade off. If you have an account on AGO maybe ask a question to Mike Phillips. And see if he has a better way to sort it out.

But contact Carpro first and see what they says about it.

Did you noticed if the TRIX did dry on the paint?

/ Tony
 
Thanks for the detailed reply Tony. I’m very careful in making sure it doesn’t dry and I really don’t think it did, but anything is possible.

I spoke with Corey from CarPro and he offered a few suggestions on what to try from
A cleaner polish to putting some trix on a microfiber and rubbing the affected area and quickly neutralizing it immediately after but none seemed to work. He was baffled regarding why this may have happened and advised that he had never seen this before. Ultimately according to Corey and the general consensus, it appears that it is going to need to be compounded and perhaps wet sanded like you said.


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It all depends on what type paint was used and if it had several coats of clear on top or was it just mixed in with the last layers of paint..

Certainly, back in the acrylic lacquer/enamel days, strong stuff like that would have probably torn through the acrylic lacquer for sure, perhaps not so easy on the acrylic enamel because it was not as soft..

After the above paints, the next thing that came out was Urethane (airplane paint), paint, and that is when I left the business because I didn`t want to die from inhaling that stuff..
Nothing could ever hurt that paint, I know this from Detailing a couple of Airplanes..

You mentioned going over it with microfiber - what level microfiber, and what product did you use on it ?

I know all about the Flex 3401VRG having purchased one right after they came out over 10 years ago..

If something like a Rotary and a compound does not even change this, I am also afraid it may have to be carefully wet-block-sanded down with a guide coat, (so you can see what you are doing), and hope that the product is removed.. You could perhaps find a spot down on the lower part of a fender, etc., and test a small spot there..

Sorry this had to happen to you and your car.. :(
Dan F
 
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