CarPro Essence & CQuartz UK 3.0

[SWETM]

Okey so they changed to the Sio2 based like Skin in the Syncro kit. It can be a homerun from Carpro if it`s like Skin. In that you can get it as a stand alone. Don`t think it takes a long time before Gyeon releases Skin to be bought alone. If Gliss v2 is alot like Skin that is.

Guz how do you think it`s going to be to refresh with Skin after it`s starts failing after a year or so?

Maybe it`s not going to be any problems to do. But it will not be degraded at the same level on the whole car. Would think it`s going to be impossible to strip only the Skin and just have mohs coating left. And is it any recommendation to when you are going to coat a new layer of Skin on the Syncro combo? Also thinking on how it`s going to look like when the Skin in some parts is gone and some is left. If you can see the difference between mohs and mohs+Skin. If you don`t reapply the Skin again that is. And it`s not only with the Syncro kit but also with a cquartz and Gliss combo. The top coatings has only the half of the longevity that the coatings has. Is it very noticeble looks wise when you have applyied either Skin or Gliss over the coatings?

I also think of some coatings that has the darkening effect. When those coatings starts to wear off. How it`s going to look. This is on those that don`t maintain their cars and not polishing the coating off. On the other hand those vehicals is often so dirty so you maybe don`t see the difference on them if it any.

 

[The Guz]

Okey so they changed to the Sio2 based like Skin in the Syncro kit. It can be a homerun from Carpro if it`s like Skin. In that you can get it as a stand alone. Don`t think it takes a long time before Gyeon releases Skin to be bought alone. If Gliss v2 is alot like Skin that is.

Guz how do you think it`s going to be to refresh with Skin after it`s starts failing after a year or so?

Maybe it`s not going to be any problems to do. But it will not be degraded at the same level on the whole car. Would think it`s going to be impossible to strip only the Skin and just have mohs coating left. And is it any recommendation to when you are going to coat a new layer of Skin on the Syncro combo? Also thinking on how it`s going to look like when the Skin in some parts is gone and some is left. If you can see the difference between mohs and mohs+Skin. If you don`t reapply the Skin again that is. And it`s not only with the Syncro kit but also with a cquartz and Gliss combo. The top coatings has only the half of the longevity that the coatings has. Is it very noticeble looks wise when you have applyied either Skin or Gliss over the coatings?

I also think of some coatings that has the darkening effect. When those coatings starts to wear off. How it`s going to look. This is on those that don`t maintain their cars and not polishing the coating off. On the other hand those vehicals is often so dirty so you maybe don`t see the difference on them if it any.

The issue I had with Gliss V1 was that a haze appeared 48 hours after application. There was never really a clear answer as to why this happened. Hopefully this gets resolved with V2.

I mentioned this on my thread about Gyeon Syncro. I have already started to see signs of it degrading on the side mirrors. I noticed it a month ago which would make it at 7 months as Syncro has been on this particular car for 8 months. There is literally no beading on the mirrors and the water has started to stick and sheet slowly. Mind you the entire car was prepped the same and it was finished off with Gyeon Primer. So does this mean Skin is completely gone and I am seeing the performance of Mohs? Or am I seeing the performance of degraded Skin? Hard to really say. But this just puts doubt in my mind that Syncro will make it to the claimed 2 years without the use of any maintenance spray sealant. I`m thinking 15-18 months and it will need to be completely redone.

The other thing I began to notice is the self cleaning effect is not releasing the dirt as good as it once was. Something I recently noticed. Something I will keep my eye on. But I am more than likely just going to top it for now just to see how Cure plays with Syncro.

Right now I am initially impressed with CQUK 3.0 as stand alone and also with Gliss V1 on top. But this is only at 1 month in going on 2.

 

[glfnaz]

It will ship out Tuesday because I`m moving my daughter this weekend and Monday is a Holiday. Maybe, might get it out tomorrow, if I get lucky. I`d love to hear your comparison!

Sure, I’ll do a side by side. Maybe I’ll get adventurous and throw Reload on a third, I got a sample when I ordered some other CarPro stuff. I’ll pm you my address.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Re: CarPro Essence & CQuartz UK 3.0

I always think of you budgetplan when I read something of Moonlight LOL. Can see you start shakeing a little and your palms gets sweaty LOL.

Will be interesting to see how you think of this products!

I wonder if I missed/gooned something up with Moonlight. Many find it delightful. Not me, however. User error?

I don’t recommend Reload because it is hit or miss depending on the batch. CarPro seems to be having similar problems with Hydro2. It’s hard to recommend a product when the formula changes so quickly. I didn’t buy Gliss but I would be kinda upset that they had to come out with V2 so quickly. They never said what was wrong with V1. It gets hard to trust a company that flip flops so quickly on its products. It took months of badgering before they said they had a bad batch of Reload a few years ago. I still use a lot of CarPro products, but if TAC Systems products were sold on Autopia I would buy them over CarPro.

The quick move from Gliss V1 to V2, a subtle acknowedgement that V1 isn`t all it can be, made using V1 a pointless exercise to me. I mighta jumped if V2 avaliable but apparently that won`t happen until stock of V1 is depleted.

That said, I`m looking forward to CQUK 3.0. It`ll be on a Fleet vehicle at work so a fire and forget, limited maint. going forward kinda thing.

Don`t think it takes a long time before Gyeon releases Skin to be bought alone.

...

The top coatings has only the half of the longevity that the coatings has.

I`m not so sure Gyeon will release Skin as a standalone anytime soon. Would think it might affect Syncro sales, depending on Skin standalone pricing. Also take away from the perceived synergy of the Syncro `kit` approach perhaps?

If the topcoats, especially Skin as part of the Syncro kit, fail to last as long as the claimed longevity of the base coating...that would kinda be a downer. Does Syncro as a whole really meet the 18-24 month claim if the appealing part of the kit (gloss, slickness, beading and self-cleaning) is gone before that time?

Unless they change the instructions to `Save your leftover Skin to top off in 12 months to maintain performance`, the true longevity of Syncro drops down to that of the weakest link, that being Skin. And if you used up your Skin and it`s not avaliable as a stand alone, what then? I guess it all comes down to finding out how long Skin actually lasts/performs...

The issue I had with Gliss V1 was that a haze appeared 48 hours after application. There was never really a clear answer as to why this happened. Hopefully this gets resolved with V2.

And yet they continue to offer V1, albeit as a freebie with CQ/CKUK purchase...in addition to being sold separately. Discomforting.

Can understand from a purely business perspective but still...

I mentioned this on my thread about Gyeon Syncro. I have already started to see signs of it degrading on the side mirrors. I noticed it a month ago which would make it at 7 months as Syncro has been on this particular car for 8 months. There is literally no beading on the mirrors and the water has started to stick and sheet slowly. Mind you the entire car was prepped the same and it was finished off with Gyeon Primer. So does this mean Skin is completely gone and I am seeing the performance of Mohs? Or am I seeing the performance of degraded Skin? Hard to really say. But this just puts doubt in my mind that Syncro will make it to the claimed 2 years without the use of any maintenance spray sealant. I`m thinking 15-18 months and it will need to be completely redone.

Mohs, while a nice product in and of itself, had somewhat unexciting performance visually unless topped with Cure or the like. The performance you see on the mirrors kinda reminds me of Mohs on own.

The other thing I began to notice is the self cleaning effect is not releasing the dirt as good as it once was. Something I recently noticed. Something I will keep my eye on. But I am more than likely just going to top it for now just to see how Cure plays with Syncro.

Troubling, especially only 6-7 months in on a vehicle in a nice climate that I`m guessing isn`t overly abused and maintained somewhat regularily.

I`ll have to have a closer look at the van at work that`s about 8500 miles into its Syncro application (no washing or maint. since application). While I do glance at it daily (and it appears relatively clean all the time) I havent thrown water at it in a while, nor seen it in the rain.

Coincidentally, the guy who drives the Syncro truck has a white Ford truck that I used Mohs + Booster on last November. Unfortunately he doesn`t drive the truck much or leave it parked at work much anymore since mice started gnawing his electrical parts when he left it parked for extended periods of time. I`d like to get a closer look at how that combo is doing compared to Syncro.

Right now I am initially impressed with CQUK 3.0 as stand alone and also with Gliss V1 on top. But this is only at 1 month in going on 2.

The more I dig into CQUK, the more I get the feeling it`s one tough customer. Regardless of Reload concerns, looking forward to using it and seeing how it does. The Cquartz `Classic` I used back in January 2017 was a quietly solid performer, if somewhat unexciting.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

I’m going with user error on Moonlight, just kidding. Products work differently based on so many variables we will never know why one product works for one person and streaks like crazy for another. The folks on Detailing World really like Moonlight and they can be very particular. One thing I have noticed is Moonlight has not hardened in the bottle at all. I do keep it indoors where the temperature rarely changes, but with its high SIO2 content I figured it would go bad quickly after opening. I want to get some Cancoat on my next order and compare the two since the descriptions of the two are so similar.

 

[SWETM]

I’m going with user error on Moonlight, just kidding. Products work differently based on so many variables we will never know why one product works for one person and streaks like crazy for another. The folks on Detailing World really like Moonlight and they can be very particular. One thing I have noticed is Moonlight has not hardened in the bottle at all. I do keep it indoors where the temperature rarely changes, but with its high SIO2 content I figured it would go bad quickly after opening. I want to get some Cancoat on my next order and compare the two since the descriptions of the two are so similar.

Think why Moonlight don`t hardened is to it`s more petroleum carrier IIRC. A weekend warrior here in Sweden apply it with a coating block and mf suede applicator towel. Work in small sections. And as you said it`s many variables that can cause a streaking mess.

The Moonlight works very well on plastic trim and even neglected ones. Have heard another sealant that is Angelwax Corona that also excells on plastic trim. And it`s many who likes it on paint too. As it`s has more at a carnuaba glow from it. And some like to have it as a base coat to there carnuaba waxes.

I don`t remember exactly where I heard about the longevity of Skin. Could be the Forensic detailing chanel maybe. Know that some of the top coatings with Gyeon does bonds with the base coating. So it`s gets synced in some way with it. This is if you apply in a certain time window. But it has me wondering between the different longevity from Syncro kit. I`m sorry if I missleading the claims from it. I will see if I can dig it up where I saw or heard it from. The same thing is to the Gliss on top of a cquartz coating. They too have a difference to the longevity. So wondering how it would be to reapply Gliss when it`s starts to degrade some. That would almost take away the benefit of the base coating and use the top coatings as stand alones.

Will be interesting to follow your results from the different coating combos.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Know that some of the top coatings with Gyeon does bonds with the base coating. So it`s gets synced in some way with it. This is if you apply in a certain time window.

That would be Gyeon Booster. Interacts with the base coating, changing its properties. Recommended usage within 1000km of base coating application.

From GYEON JEFF:

Q2 Booster, like Q2 Bead in DuraBead, is a Fluorine based top coat designed to increase surface tension and throw the water beading characteristics through the roof. The Fluorine base of Q2 Booster is performing a chemical reaction with the Q2 Mohs underneath, and is not a true additional layer. Q2 Booster also needs to be applied before Q2 Mohs has cured, so it is best to apply them as a system and in sequence. Q2 Booster will not do much good say 6 months down the road. It can also be applied over any high quality coating.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

Think why Moonlight don`t hardened is to it`s more petroleum carrier IIRC. A weekend warrior here in Sweden apply it with a coating block and mf suede applicator towel. Work in small sections. And as you said it`s many variables that can cause a streaking mess.

The Moonlight works very well on plastic trim and even neglected ones. Have heard another sealant that is Angelwax Corona that also excells on plastic trim. And it`s many who likes it on paint too. As it`s has more at a carnuaba glow from it. And some like to have it as a base coat to there carnuaba waxes.

I don`t remember exactly where I heard about the longevity of Skin. Could be the Forensic detailing chanel maybe. Know that some of the top coatings with Gyeon does bonds with the base coating. So it`s gets synced in some way with it. This is if you apply in a certain time window. But it has me wondering between the different longevity from Syncro kit. I`m sorry if I missleading the claims from it. I will see if I can dig it up where I saw or heard it from. The same thing is to the Gliss on top of a cquartz coating. They too have a difference to the longevity. So wondering how it would be to reapply Gliss when it`s starts to degrade some. That would almost take away the benefit of the base coating and use the top coatings as stand alones.

Will be interesting to follow your results from the different coating combos.

The whole idea of a “top coating” over a coating is something I’ve had a difficult time wrapping my head around. If coatings are so great and offer the best durability then why am I applying a softer coating over the durable one? I understand the top coat supposedly adds more shine but at the cost of durability are we falling into some kind of trap? For me it’s really no big deal as I replace my coating every year, but for a person that is expecting 3 or more years out of a coating (which I think is unrealistic anyway) they are being set up for disappointment.

I agree about the carrier in Moonlight being oil based may be the reason why it remains fresh so long. I wonder why other manufacturers haven’t used oil as a carrier for their coatings. I also apply Moonlight like a traditional coating and bypass the sprayer. I’ve heard the sprayer clogs up easy and by applying Moonlight as a normal coating you use much less. A few drops will do half a normals sized hood. I haven’t tried it on trim yet, I’ve seen what it does on glass (don’t try it) and I wonder if it will give trim a matte look.

 

[The Guz]

The whole idea of a “top coating” over a coating is something I’ve had a difficult time wrapping my head around. If coatings are so great and offer the best durability then why am I applying a softer coating over the durable one? I understand the top coat supposedly adds more shine but at the cost of durability are we falling into some kind of trap? For me it’s really no big deal as I replace my coating every year, but for a person that is expecting 3 or more years out of a coating (which I think is unrealistic anyway) they are being set up for disappointment.

Is adding a top coat really that much different than using a maintenance spray sealant? Just another thought.

 

[someidiot]

The Ech2o QD- 20oz water; 2oz Reload; 2oz Ech2o QD from Corey Caruth from CarPro is just magic. Leaves the surface super slick and glossy. No streaking issues since Reload is diluted.

Do you use this as a drying aid? Is this how I should maintain my CQUK/Gliss-coated car for durability?

 

[RaydiantDetail]

Do you use this as a drying aid? Is this how I should maintain my CQUK/Gliss-coated car for durability?

Yup use it as a drying aid/ gloss enhancer. It would provide some extra protection due to the reload. I can`t say how durable it is but I use it every 2 to 3 weeks so it`s really not an issue. I use it on the wheels as well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[rlmccarty2000]

Is adding a top coat really that much different than using a maintenance spray sealant? Just another thought.

They are similar as you are changing the water repellant properties but different in cost, durability, time to install, gloss. For me it’s like adding another layer of a less durable coating over your “super” durable coating. What are you supposed to do when this softer layer gets marred? You can’t just polish it off, you have to replace the entire coating. For a maintenance spray I just either reapply or wait for it to wear off. These new top coats may wear off, but I doubt they wear off evenly over the vehicle. If you are only keeping your coating for a year like me then top coating is ok because it provides more gloss. It may even make more sense to skip the coating and only apply the Top Coat. The stuff is so new I haven’t even thought about that.

 

[The Guz]

They are similar as you are changing the water repellant properties but different in cost, durability, time to install, gloss. For me it’s like adding another layer of a less durable coating over your “super” durable coating. What are you supposed to do when this softer layer gets marred? You can’t just polish it off, you have to replace the entire coating. For a maintenance spray I just either reapply or wait for it to wear off. These new top coats may wear off, but I doubt they wear off evenly over the vehicle. If you are only keeping your coating for a year like me then top coating is ok because it provides more gloss. It may even make more sense to skip the coating and only apply the Top Coat. The stuff is so new I haven’t even thought about that.

The thing about a top coat not wearing evenly can also apply to a maintenance spray as well. The maintenance spray does not add that much benefit in terms of marring protection. One thing I don`t buy into is the claimed hardness of any coating. They all marr to some extent so even having a "softer" top coat or maintenance spray. So if the base layer gets marred because the the maintenance spray is not providing any additional hardness, then that person is in the same predicament as a top coat being marred. Essentially needing to be polished off.

Another thing about a top coat is that they retain their hydrophobic properties and self cleaning effect much longer and better than a maintenance spray. I find the self cleaning effect of Gliss to be much better than Reload or Cure. Heck I don`t use spray toppers on my coatings like everyone thinks has to be done. Wash and EcH20 as a drying aid if I use towels or just wash and blow dry.

One other thing is that with a top coat one does not need a maintenance spray. An example of this is when using Gliss as a topper. So perhaps more cost in the short term but less cost in the long term.

Q. Can we top the Gliss with Reload?

A. Yes but it is not necessary. However if you choose to do so Reload can be applied after 12 hrs.

What I am getting at is that they are both similar and have their pros and cons. Without trying both combinations it is really hard to just speculate based on what others have said. Sometimes it is good to just take a leap and give it a go and not worry about all the hearsay.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

The thing about a top coat not wearing evenly can also apply to a maintenance spray as well. The maintenance spray does not add that much benefit in terms of marring protection. One thing I don`t buy into is the claimed hardness of any coating. They all marr to some extent so even having a "softer" top coat or maintenance spray. So if the base layer gets marred because the the maintenance spray is not providing any additional hardness, then that person is in the same predicament as a top coat being marred. Essentially needing to be polished off.

Another thing about a top coat is that they retain their hydrophobic properties and self cleaning effect much longer and better than a maintenance spray. I find the self cleaning effect of Gliss to be much better than Reload or Cure. Heck I don`t use spray toppers on my coatings like everyone thinks has to be done. Wash and EcH20 as a drying aid if I use towels or just wash and blow dry.

One other thing is that with a top coat one does not need a maintenance spray. An example of this is when using Gliss as a topper. So perhaps more cost in the short term but less cost in the long term.

Q. Can we top the Gliss with Reload?

A. Yes but it is not necessary. However if you choose to do so Reload can be applied after 12 hrs.

What I am getting at is that they are both similar and have their pros and cons. Without trying both combinations it is really hard to just speculate based on what others have said. Sometimes it is good to just take a leap and give it a go and not worry about all the hearsay.

What do you think about using Gliss as a stand-alone product? It’s supposed to last one year. Of course we should probably cut that in half based on past experience. Or does Gliss depend upon the coating as a base structure?

 

[The Guz]

CarPro Essence & CQuartz UK 3.0

What do you think about using Gliss as a stand-alone product? It’s supposed to last one year. Of course we should probably cut that in half based on past experience. Or does Gliss depend upon the coating as a base structure?

I am sure it will work just fine as a stand alone. But just keep in mind that CarPro states "they believe up to 12 months"` if washed with Reset. "Up to" being the key words. If it lasts a month it still lasted up to 12 months.

Q. How long will the durability last?

A. We believe up to 12 months, if well maintained with CarPro Reset.

If I am looking to go with a 6-10 month coating then CanCoat would be my choice.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

Re: CarPro Essence & CQuartz UK 3.0

I am sure it will work just fine as a stand alone. But just keep in mind that CarPro states "they believe up to 12 months"` if washed with Reset. "Up to" being the key words. If it lasts a month it still lasted up to 12 months.

Q. How long will the durability last?

A. We believe up to 12 months, if well maintained with CarPro Reset.

If I am looking to go with a 6-10 month coating then CanCoat would be my choice.

I always cut a manufacturer’s claim in half so I’m not disappointed. I was just looking at what would be the glossiest coating I could put on my car. From the pictures I’ve seen Gliss is glossier than the coating it goes over. I’ve used TAC Systems Topcoat 1.0 and it is much glossier than any coating I have used. CarPro and TAC Systems are tied together by DNA so I imagine Gliss and Topcoat 1.0 are very similar. My problem with Topcoat 1.0 is that it comes in such a large bottle that I would never use it all before it goes bad. Gliss comes in a 30m bottle, which is perfect.

On a side note, what do manufacturers do to keep coatings from hardening up before the customer opens the bottle? There is always some air already in the new bottle, so why doesn’t it go bad more rapidly? Anyone know?

 

[Rsurfer]

Re: CarPro Essence & CQuartz UK 3.0

I always cut a manufacturer’s claim in half so I’m not disappointed. I was just looking at what would be the glossiest coating I could put on my car. From the pictures I’ve seen Gliss is glossier than the coating it goes over. I’ve used TAC Systems Topcoat 1.0 and it is much glossier than any coating I have used. CarPro and TAC Systems are tied together by DNA so I imagine Gliss and Topcoat 1.0 are very similar. My problem with Topcoat 1.0 is that it comes in such a large bottle that I would never use it all before it goes bad. Gliss comes in a 30m bottle, which is perfect.

On a side note, what do manufacturers do to keep coatings from hardening up before the customer opens the bottle? There is always some air already in the new bottle, so why doesn’t it go bad more rapidly? Anyone know?

Nitrogen comes to mind, but not sure.

 

[someidiot]

Yup use it as a drying aid/ gloss enhancer. It would provide some extra protection due to the reload. I can`t say how durable it is but I use it every 2 to 3 weeks so it`s really not an issue. I use it on the wheels as well.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

one last question (sorry) - do you still dry with your regular drying towel (I use Dry Me a River from TRC) when using this, or do you use your normal "wipe off" type microfibers (eagle edgeless, e.g.)

not sure if the question makes any sense. is this just a product on top of your regular drying routine or do you treat it like you`re applying a wax/sealant that needs to be wiped off?

 

[RaydiantDetail]

one last question (sorry) - do you still dry with your regular drying towel (I use Dry Me a River from TRC) when using this, or do you use your normal "wipe off" type microfibers (eagle edgeless, e.g.)

not sure if the question makes any sense. is this just a product on top of your regular drying routine or do you treat it like you`re applying a wax/sealant that needs to be wiped off?

The key thing I forgot to mention is I blow off my cars with air as much as possible using the master blaster. So in my instance I usually use two rag company pluffles or two eagle edgle towels as I dont have as much water to pick up off the panel.

You could still use your dry me a river towel and follow up with a 2nd towel if you need to to pick up excess water and work the rest of the product in. If there is some light streaking I find it flashes away with no issue.





Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[someidiot]

The key thing I forgot to mention is I blow off my cars with air as much as possible using the master blaster. So in my instance I usually use two rag company pluffles or two eagle edgle towels as I dont have as much water to pick up off the panel.

You could still use your dry me a river towel and follow up with a 2nd towel if you need to to pick up excess water and work the rest of the product in. If there is some light streaking I find it flashes away with no issue.





Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

do you spray, then blow, then wipe, or blow, spray, and wipe?