Careful with the PC's guys.. (not good)

When I wet sanded my Cherokee, I did burn through a small spot right on the curve on the top of the fender. I was using 3M rubbing compound and I must have been distracted when my neighbor's wife jogged by. If I learned from every one of my mistakes, I'd be the president of Mensa by now! Yes, you can screw up using a PC, even when you are paying attention. Anytime you on are a curved surface such as the top of a fender, make sure keep on your toes.
 
dlw said:
When I wet sanded my Cherokee, I did burn through a small spot right on the curve on the top of the fender. I was using 3M rubbing compound and I must have been distracted when my neighbor's wife jogged by. If I learned from every one of my mistakes, I'd be the president of Mensa by now! Yes, you can screw up using a PC, even when you are paying attention. Anytime you on are a curved surface such as the top of a fender, make sure keep on your toes.



Thanks for posting this DLW Make me feel a little better:sosad
 
I think many of us are guilty, as I was, of using the term "burned" incorrectly when speaking of using the PC. In my case, I just plain wore through a very thin clear/color area on top of a fender curve (keep in mind that I had also wet sanded this area). I have to agree that it would be next to impossible to "burn" paint with the PC, unless you are doing it on purpose, of course. When I was in the computer business, everyone that had a hard drive problem would tell me their hard drive "crashed" on them. Like me watching the neighbor lady in spandex caused me to leave the PC in one place too long, many of my customers hard drive "crashes" were due to doing something that could have been prevented with a little caution. I've wet sanded 3 complete cars now and used my PC to compound and SMR them, plus a few dozen PC jobs on friends and neighbors cars without any other incidents. Nothing is fool proof (and I've proved that many times in my 52 years), but the PC is really about as close as you can get. In redcar's case, I would say that he was more of victim of GM getting a bit stingy with the clear coat and even a pro with years of experience would have had the same problem. I'm really more afraid of screw ups when I'm hand rubbing/buffing than when using my PC!

Prelude_hood_shot1.jpg
 
So Showroom pointed out that I used the term "burned" incorrectly.

I thought that meant you broke through.

Does someone want to correct me on the terminology
 
That really IS a drag, but I must agree 100% with those who are arguing for _responsible_ PC use as opposed to _no_ PC use. I SMR'd my Miata by hand at 11k miles (PO had used a cover daily on a dusty car) and got about nowhere. 2 rounds with the PC at 45k and I'm showroom new (ok, not really :) but the PC worked waaaay better).



I have the CMA kit, and I notice that the backing pad is really about the same size as the pads, which would make it super easy to catch the backplate edge (which is nasty and hard!) on a projection that was tall enough. Anyone ever consider trimming the taper off the backing pad with a razor knife? I was thinking that a 1/4" of clearance all around wouldn't really affect the performance of the PC/pad but would give that extra bit of cushion for just such an occasion as this.... I know some use 6.5" pads which would give the same result, but I have a mess of 6" pads already.



Robert
 
Redcar GUY said:




I dont think so, But I could see how the paint would be verrrry thin in that part of the hood .........my bad:(



yes the paint is thin on those hoods, especially right around the scoop grilles. Something similar to this happened to me on my firehawk, I fixed it much like you did. I found out later that the backing pad had caught the paint with the velcro. Not good.



SLP does a fine job painting our hoods, but its THIN because its not the same paint as the rest of the car. ;)
 
:scared = i think i would cry and become unstable. I feel for you!

Never heard of the PC doing that before, but there is a first time for everything.

To all those who said they will not buy a PC now, you are wrong for thinking that.

I have detailed many cars with the PC and never had a problem, you will love the results it gives you. go get one and detail away.
 
Yes, definitely don't let this experience talk you out of getting a PC. I also disagree that anything you can do by machine can be done by hand.



I tried applying hand polish to remove swirls and scratches-tried several high line brands. no good. The PC provides even, deep coverage of products there is just no way you can do by hand, in my humble, apprentice opinion.



It was also mentioned that it was a fiberglass piece that this problem occured on. My whole car body is pretty much one big sheet of fiberglass, and I have used the PC on it twice, with absolutely stellar results.



AND, these were the first two times I had ever used an orbital. I totally believe that if you are using the right pads(I used Griot's), you can't screw up. I also agree that the backing plate may have made contact, especially considering how quickly the paint stripped off.



The backing plate touched the bug guard on my truck as I was using it and it did a number on the plastic for sure.
 
jimwh, yes, that's the infamous '93 Prelude I got for my son. Here's a little "before" pic of the hood (no, it's not an example of my handywork with my PC). Gimme a spray can, some 2000 grit and rubbing compound and I'll give you a sore shoulder! It's actually a letdown to be done with the car. I'm pushing my wife to get a car for my 14 year old daughter so I can get back in the game again.

Prelude_before_hood.jpg
 
Out of interest, how many time can you normaly 3m SMR your clear coat before you start to wear it to thin. Does anyone know the avg thickness of clear cost and how much one application of SMR would normaly take off.
 
DLW - that before picture proves it...you should be in the Autopia Hall of Fame. Your results look better than when the car was rolling out of the factory.



Now go work the wife over and get your daughter a new (old) derelict to work on! :D
 
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