Carbon Fiber haze repair

01integrase

New member
Hello,

I'm new to ths site and the past few days of just browsing, i've found A LOT of useful information when it comes to detailing. I love this site :yay

Now, i tried doing a search and i couldnt really find a good definate answer.

My problem is, I currently have a CF hood and Trunk on my car. They are couple years old and only driven in the summer time. (stored in winter) BUT last winter it sat outside in the snow, and for some reason, i got a white haze on both pieces.

If i was to spray water on the hood, the haze goes away until i dry it off. It seems like its just in the Gel coat/clear coat alone.

Any suggestions?

i've read that wet sanding and re clearing works, but shops around here charge $600+ to do so.

Would the M105/M205 with sealant have any effect on this?

I can probably scrounge up some pictures tonight if it may help.

Thanks guys! Hope someone can help
 
I'd first find out if it had a clearcoat on it (which I would assume it does). If so, then I would proceed as normal for light polishing on any other body panel and see where that got me. Pictures would also help in analyzing from a "keyboard warrior" standpoint.
 
I'll get some pictures tonight when i go back up to the shop.

As for clear coat, its a VIS hood. From what i read, they have a gel coat and no clear. I should've had it cleared to protect it from the UV raise. Oh well my wrong.
 
My guess is that you can carry on and polish it like you would any other panel on your car. Start using the least aggressive method and work your way up from there. Unless I am missing something - I know I've polished boats before (gelcoat) using the same products and methods I would have used on a vehicle paint finish.
 
Thank you!

I stumbled on this product from Meguairs

Meguiar's #49, HD Oxidation Remover

Its a product i saw local the other day, made for gel coats and fiberglass
 
I would start with a paint cleaner or PB Pro-polish and see how that works the last thing that you want to do is attack it with a aggressive polish
 
Ok, i'll take some picture of before and use paint cleaner. I have meguairs deep crystal Paint cleaner.

It probably will work, but the haze will come back in a couple weeks
 
Ok, i'll take some picture of before and use paint cleaner. I have meguairs deep crystal Paint cleaner.

It probably will work, but the haze will come back in a couple weeks

Make sure to use cotton to rub the cleaner in, MF applicators do not get the bite that you will need

Also work in 12x12 inch areas so that you can keep good control over the product.

Once you have it removed then apply either a wax or sealant that should help the hazing from returning

If it dose sounds like there is something else going on
 
If you believe it to have a gelcoat, then oxidation seems very possible (and to some point almost expected). I don't know anything about Meg's oxidation remover, but a conversation with someone on here who does a lot of work with boats and watercraft might be a good idea.
 
well i forgot to grab some pictures. I tried the cleaner, but only with MF cloth :( i didnt have time to run get a cotton one. Will it make thatr big of a difference?

It went away with the cleaner, but it did come back within 15 minutes.
 
well i forgot to grab some pictures. I tried the cleaner, but only with MF cloth :( i didnt have time to run get a cotton one. Will it make thatr big of a difference?

It went away with the cleaner, but it did come back within 15 minutes.

The cotton gets a better grip on the surface and cleans better

There is something else going on with that surface if it keeps coming back that quick

I'm starting to wonder if this is gel coated
 
The cotton gets a better grip on the surface and cleans better

There is something else going on with that surface if it keeps coming back that quick

I'm starting to wonder if this is gel coated

Im wondering the same. I knwo theres some products out there that remove oxidisation from gel coats (used for boats)

ill try remember to grab some pictures tonight.

Maybe the only thing to do is getting it wet sanded down and put clear on it
 
Im wondering the same. I knwo theres some products out there that remove oxidisation from gel coats (used for boats)

ill try remember to grab some pictures tonight.

Maybe the only thing to do is getting it wet sanded down and put clear on it

Gel coat is very hard and requires compounding in some cases

Is this an aftermarket part, and if so who makes it?
 
Its aftermarket company called VIS. They specialise just in Carbon fiber components for many cars.

They claim to put 3-5 layers of UV protection, but obviously they dont if mine fades like it is.
 
I had a Fiber Images carbon fiber hood on my last car. Being an amateur painter, I scuffed mine and gave her 4 heavy coats of clear to protect it as I had heard rumors of how bad most of those 'gel-coats' are. I owned her for 5 years and never had a lick of trouble with it.

Sorry, I don't have much to offer in the way of eliminating any haziness, but I will say, if you can get her cleaned up well, I'd certainly invest in a good clearcoat over top of it...it's the best way to protect the finish. Just like clearcoat, gelcoat's only so thick so I would imagine if you have to polish it every year to eliminate the haze you'll be buffing right through the gel-coat before long. Get a good clearcoat on it and save yourself the troubles.

Do you have any buddies who can paint that can hook you up for less than a body shop? I mean, it's seriously very little work...wipe it down with wax/grease remover, scuff it, shoot a little adhesion promoter, a few heavy coats of clear and bam! You could remove the hood and tape off the underside yourself to save the body shop some time. I did mine in an afternoon...probably spent more time taping up plastic in the garage than spraying the clear. ;)
 
I had a Fiber Images carbon fiber hood on my last car. Being an amateur painter, I scuffed mine and gave her 4 heavy coats of clear to protect it as I had heard rumors of how bad most of those 'gel-coats' are. I owned her for 5 years and never had a lick of trouble with it.

Sorry, I don't have much to offer in the way of eliminating any haziness, but I will say, if you can get her cleaned up well, I'd certainly invest in a good clearcoat over top of it...it's the best way to protect the finish. Just like clearcoat, gelcoat's only so thick so I would imagine if you have to polish it every year to eliminate the haze you'll be buffing right through the gel-coat before long. Get a good clearcoat on it and save yourself the troubles.

Do you have any buddies who can paint that can hook you up for less than a body shop? I mean, it's seriously very little work...wipe it down with wax/grease remover, scuff it, shoot a little adhesion promoter, a few heavy coats of clear and bam! You could remove the hood and tape off the underside yourself to save the body shop some time. I did mine in an afternoon...probably spent more time taping up plastic in the garage than spraying the clear. ;)

Thank you for the reply.

I'm almost thinking its going to be hard to save and ive noticed my trunk lid has a yellow tint to it now. From what i've read, people with similar problems had to get it sanded down and re cleared.

Fortunatly i know a friend who is a painter, and probably can do it in his garage.

I'll still grab some pictues tonight. I went around town and couldnt find a place that sold wool pads. :(
 
I've got both the VIS hood and trunk on my car. About 2 years after installing it I started to notice that the gel coat was getting dull in the center. I used an aggressive compound with a wool pad, then Fire Glaze with a soft foam pad, and finished with a Maguiar's Gold Class. The hood is now almost seven years old. Now I just keep it waxed and I've had no problems. Also, it after install the hood you didn't put some kind of heat barrier on the bottom it will yellow and haze much faster.

dcp_1345.jpg
 
how did you apply the compound with wool?

i noticed today that my trunk and some of my hood has a yellow tint to it now. :( I'll try find some wool buffing pads and give the cleaner a try. If not, then re clear it is.
 
I prefer to wet the wool pad, spin it up to get it evenly damp, apply the compound to the pad, and buff till it's clear. Obviously paying more attention to the the heavier oxidized areas. If your not use to working with compound start with a low speed and make multiple passes wiping off the excess with each pass.
 
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