Legacy99 said:
But we will get a bias answer from Anthony. I would rather get it from you Scott.
Fair enough.
This is one of the reasons why I rarely post anymore on forums, everyone thinks or hints that I am some sort of paid Optimum (insert company here__________ ) troll. I don't wish to turn David's post into anything other than his original intention so please excuse the small rabbit trail......but I test and help Doctor G out with products as do several other people. I want products to simply work as it not only benefits me but others also. So if a product I am helping Doctor G to develop or improve upon is not working properly I am not going to tell him it works if it doesn't just because I am afraid to crush his feelings nor would he want me too.
There is always new stuff on the horizon.
David, forgive my rabbit trail. Now to the Opti-Coat application.
1) Do all your prep work to get the paint to your level of personal perfection. (washed, clayed, buffed)
2) Make sure you give all panels an alcohol wipe down.
3) My applicator of choice is an airgun but since not everyone has an airgun the next best method is application by hand. A suede microfiber cyclo pad placed over an orange 4inch foam pad is my choice of applicator by hand. I also have used a very dense low pile microfiber "sock" which also works nicely. Don't use anything that absorbs too much product.
4) When applying use it sparingly, applying only to small sections. So on your fender for instance, apply it to the whole fender working the product in until almost evaporated. Then taking a soft towel buff that panel down. Don't allow it to dry or set too long before buffing down as you'll notice streaks that dry and set which will then have to be machine buffed off.
By doing sections you'll avoid "start and stop lines". So if your hood, for example, has a body line that separates the two sides then apply the right side, buff down and then do the other side. This is best rather than trying to apply it to the whole hood. The problem with applying to a large area is that the product will dry and set before you can properly work the product over that large area. It's much like Opti-Seal in application in that as you apply it it begins to evaporate.
5) If you wish to layer the product it can be done but do it shortly after the first coat. I have had some instances where it layers and others where it doesn't and can be finicky when being applied over itself.
6) Cool temps are best for application.
7) Don't wash or get the surface wet for at least 48 hours.
8) Opti-Coat can be waxed after application, it can even be lightly polished with something like FPII and a finishing pad.
9) The product is safe and is not explosive nor corrosive. Opti-Coat will clog the needle though so clean it promptly after each use with some paint thinner.
10) Lastly just take your time. You'll soon develop your own method of application after some trial and error. I hope it works well for you.
As for the 3 year claim, I have had it on cars longer than 3 years BUT I am not running these cars through car washes that use harsh soaps. It has been on portions of my wifes car for over a year now and those portions when washed show it going strong still. It has far outlasted any wax or polymer sealant that I have also applied on her car. It has gone through a few automated car washes when I have been too dang lazy to wash it myself.
Next up is the interior.
Anthony
