cant get rid of holograms

Guitarmageddon said:
I figure I`ll go through the full prep process as planned Saturday morning and see if I can make the hood work. If not....I`m lost here. Does autogeek take returns? Hah

If my paint was THAT soft that anything I do caused holograms, wouldn`t I see paint transfer ? I`m getting none
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You are not getting paint transfer because you don`t have single stage paint, but rather bc/cc paint.
 
I watched your video and those look like holograms to me. Not that it is importantant, but where did they come from? Ok, the more important thing is to get rid of them. Jetta paint is usually very hard so I would go with a microfiber pad and FG 400 and follow it up with 4000 on a medium pad. The 400 on the microfiber pad should remove the holograms (or any type of marring) and finishing up with the 4000 should remove the micromarring from the 400. I hope this works and helps.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
I watched your video and those look like holograms to me. Not that it is importantant, but where did they come from? Ok, the more important thing is to get rid of them. Jetta paint is usually very hard so I would go with a microfiber pad and FG 400 and follow it up with 4000 on a medium pad. The 400 on the microfiber pad should remove the holograms (or any type of marring) and finishing up with the 4000 should remove the micromarring from the 400. I hope this works and helps.
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Thanks for the input. I will post some progress pics in the morning.
 
So i took almost the whole day yesterday doing EVERY combo I could. Ended up doing half the car and getting it to look way under par. Going to post some pics when I can get a sunny day. This car totally beat me and about 8 different pads/5 different polishes. Never had this hard of a time on any car before , I don`t get it. It`s like 50 guys with rotaries had an orgy on it but it`s never even come close to one in its life.
 
Sorry you are having such a tough time. I wish I was nearby to see this in person. It sounds like you have tried just about everything. What happened with the 400 and 4000 combo? The 400 should have left it almost LSP ready. I`m assuming your pads are clean? By now you are getting into a spot where you might be close to compromising your clearcoat. You might want to take it to a pro with a paint thickness gauge before compounding much further. If all else fails there is wet sanding as a very last resort, but I would take it to a pro before attempting this on a new car. Can you post a few more pictures of what it looks like now? Good luck.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
Sorry you are having such a tough time. I wish I was nearby to see this in person. It sounds like you have tried just about everything. What happened with the 400 and 4000 combo? The 400 should have left it almost LSP ready. I`m assuming your pads are clean? By now you are getting into a spot where you might be close to compromising your clearcoat. You might want to take it to a pro with a paint thickness gauge before compounding much further. If all else fails there is wet sanding as a very last resort, but I would take it to a pro before attempting this on a new car. Can you post a few more pictures of what it looks like now? Good luck.
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Yessir will do. Here in VA we`ve got some crappy weather for the next few days so Wednesday i`ll put some pics up. So aside from wet sanding, I`m wondering if a sealant or wax will help me mask it somewhat? Something that I can machine apply? Anyone in northern VA with some experience want to take a look to sanity check me? If it`s my gear or technique believe me I`d love to correct that.
 
Guitarmageddon- Sorry, but not surprised, to hear it didn`t go better. Regulars here know that I`m pretty fanatical about preserving clearcoat thickness, but this is just so similar to what I`ve gone through (i.e., I had to *hammer* "light holograms" with M105 for the first step) that I still think I would`ve just used something more aggressive after the first few tries on the test-spot didn`t work.

I *am* assuming that you worked the test-spot with varying combos until it got OK. If it never did get OK then something`s wrong and you gotta reassess. On a hard clearcoat *that I had no reason to suspect is very thin* by the third combo I`d be using something

I sure wouldn`t wetsand it as the sanding scratches are gonna be *more severe* than the current problem. Don`t try to resolve marring by instilling *more and worse* marring :D Well...OK, maybe there`d be a net gain with 4K but unless you`re *VERY* experienced with wetsanding *that particular paint* I`d still rather just use something like M101 (NON-diminishing abrasive so you can stop at the exact point that the problem is resolved rather than working through the breakdown-cycle) on a MF Cutting Disk and then clear up the micromarring from that with a Finishing Polish (again, I`d use a NON-diminishing abrasive for the same reason) on a regular polishing pad.

Eh, I guess I keep returning to solutions that involve buying different products from what you currently have, but it doesn`t sound like you`re all that satisfied with how things are going.

Oh, and..heh heh, I`d try to purge your memory of those "one pass success stories" as this Jetta is a whole `nother ballgame.
 
Poorboy`s Black Hole might be what you are looking for to fill/hide those swirls and give it a wet look. If no one suggests a Detailer here from N. Virginia try the forum on the sister site Autogeek as I believe they have a list of detailers by state.
 
Wonder how it`d go if a small area were done by hand. I`m just thinking how fingernail scratches behind Audi door handles by hand used to take me a full afternoon (yes, hours of work for a few square inches), but now such work is quick and easy thanks to today`s products. I`m kinda fixating on getting *some* test-spot fixed, even if it`s just a really small area.

If the clear on this Jetta is too thin for this problem to be corrected, well...I`d be making a different sort of plans. I doubt that, but without an ETG it`s maybe a hard call. Eh, I`d work one small area *by hand* until it`s OK even if that took [however long it takes]. Which shouldn`t be all *that* long, not hours like in the old days.
 
*To me* those marks in the video look like some of the damage I`ve seen when someone gets too aggressive by hand and/or wipes down a dirty dry car. Like mentioned, I`ve never seen a DA make a mess like that. If the OP is still using his "old stuff," it may have deteriorated to the point where it`s either completely ineffective or super harsh. My vote is ineffective since they don`t look like a DAs pattern of hazing or *scratching.*

I think it would be worthwhile to get some new product (whatever he feels comfortable using) and starting with a mild/medium polish, not an compound and see if that nets him any improvements.
 
So I finished the hood, roof, and driver/passenger front doors. I tried different methods for each and I am happier with the hood results. That was a lake country blue with fg400 followed by medium cut and a Polish pad followed by super finish on a finishing pad. Yes they are still there slightly but way better than that first pic. I messed with other combos for varying degrees of satisfaction for the other areas. And then on the trunk I used sonax perfect finish which came out looking like the three step process on the hood... So wierd the varying examples on just one car. I couldn`t get sunlight pics today but I want to post for your thoughts everyone
 
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