Bye Bye 3m Trizact! Hello Norton Dryice

Thanks for the write up Barry. I love the 3m Trizact but will have to try the Norton Dry Ice. Will they work on the Hook It II interface and backing plates?
 
EliminatorXP said:
Thanks for your feed back Barry, much appreciated!



I would definitely recommend the "Mirka" for the Headlight lens restoral. I also started a second business as you know almost 2.5 years ago dedicated only to this rapidly growing problem...

Headlight Lens Restoral and I agree smaller is better in this game....that with a good pneumatic set up (Snap on, Blue Point) as I see you are using, my choice as well!



Like I mentioned above, since the Abralon are a mesh/foam construction, they are longer lasting, generally I can get 4-6 lenses restored per disc...box of 20 ussually cost less that $30.00
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David, do you prefer the 3M for the lower grits (320,500,800)? Have you ever used the Mirka Abralons for all the steps when reconditioning headlights? I have tried the Mirka Abralons myself (500,1000 and 3000) and I like them, however if I compare a 500 grit Abralon disc to the 3M P500 it feels like a much finer abrasive, the 3M is coarser.
 
:lol:lol:lol:lol
Accumulator said:
But, uh...Barry posted this back at the beginning of October!
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Barry, at this point, I'm inclined to think that the majority of us here wouldn't be the least bit surprised if you were to have a quality 1-stop-body/detail shop franchise in the near future



at this point I dare say that I wouldn't really think twice if you were to say you needed a blowtorch/jackhammer/ and a ban saw to do something to my car lol



Thanks for the write-up
 
I also like the Mirka Abralon 4000grit. It really lasts along time and with the sponge backing pad, if you have to hand sand a small area, it works excellent.
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
:lol:lol:lol:lol



Barry, at this point, I'm inclined to think that the majority of us here wouldn't be the least bit surprised if you were to have a quality 1-stop-body/detail shop franchise in the near future



at this point I dare say that I wouldn't really think twice if you were to say you needed a blowtorch/jackhammer/ and a ban saw to do something to my car lol



Thanks for the write-up
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Im thinking more of the lines of a shop that runs about 40 - 60 cars a week!!!! :grinno::grinno:



Im just getting started, already looking for something bigger!
 
rescuenut10 said:
I also like the Mirka Abralon 4000grit. It really lasts along time and with the sponge backing pad, if you have to hand sand a small area, it works excellent.
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Yeah, even their 2K works OK by hand as long as you, uhm...keep thinking. When doing the Crown Vic I'd just pull the disk off the machine, fold it up, and do spots by hand. Yeah, I can hear it now "never sand without a backing pad!!", but as I think Barry can tell ya, all sorts of "awful" stuff works just fine as long as you don't get careless. IMO the foam backing makes a big diff and goes a long way towards making them, uhm... Accumulator-proof.



Yeah, OK, I know, I know..."don't try this at home, kids" ;)
 
Wow, I can't believe I didn't see this thread until now Barry! I'm definitely going to have to add these into my testing.



A friend recently sent me a ton of various samples to try out (Trizact, Megs, Abralon, Abranet...). I've tried the 3000 grit Trizact and the Abralon before and like them both a lot. I've been using the 3M P1500 disks you pictured above dry for the initial cutting as I found them to leave pig tails when used wet. I talk to a 3M guy at SEMA about the pig tail problem and he said the Trizact 1500 should work much better and not leave pig tails. He also said the Trizact were only to be used wet...not a big deal for me since dry sanding makes such a mess.





That's a pretty thick interface pad you have there...is it on the firm or softer side? The Mirka one I have seems a little more firm than my 3M one and I think I like it better for that reason.



I really want to do some testing on hand/block sanding vs. DA sanding. We all know DA is faster but I don't feel it works as well in overall leveling. Sure it knocks down the orange peel really well but I also think it makes the paint have a "ripple" look to it. Most probably would never see the difference though....





Cheers,

Rasky
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, even their 2K works OK by hand as long as you, uhm...keep thinking. When doing the Crown Vic I'd just pull the disk off the machine, fold it up, and do spots by hand. Yeah, I can hear it now "never sand without a backing pad!!", but as I think Barry can tell ya, all sorts of "awful" stuff works just fine as long as you don't get careless. IMO the foam backing makes a big diff and goes a long way towards making them, uhm... Accumulator-proof.



Yeah, OK, I know, I know..."don't try this at home, kids" ;)
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I actually cut up my used Abralon disks and use them as a soft sanding block when when working on curved tight areas. ;)



IMG_3402.jpg




IMG_3405.jpg




IMG_3406.jpg




IMG_3407.jpg




IMG_3408.jpg
 
RaskyR1 said:
I really want to do some testing on hand/block sanding vs. DA sanding. We all know DA is faster but I don't feel it works as well in overall leveling. Sure it knocks down the orange peel really well but I also think it makes the paint have a "ripple" look to it. Most probably would never see the difference though....





Cheers,

Rasky
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If it makes any difference that has been my experience too. I find even leveling with 2k grit via block generally leaves a more level surface than 1500 by DA. Of course, as you mentioned it takes a lot more time and the overall benefit is minimal...but we're all about that last 1% here, right? :D



One thing I find helps a lot with the DA/ripple thing is going from 1500->2k->3k as opposed to 1500->3k, for example.
 
Picus said:
If it makes any difference that has been my experience too. I find even leveling with 2k grit via block generally leaves a more level surface than 1500 by DA. Of course, as you mentioned it takes a lot more time and the overall benefit is minimal...but we're all about that last 1% here, right? :D



One thing I find helps a lot with the DA/ripple thing is going from 1500->2k->3k as opposed to 1500->3k, for example.
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Yeah, since i picked up the Abralon stuff I have been doing 1500>2000>4000. I really think a lot of it depends on the paint though.



Lately my old man has been using the DA with 1500 for the initial leveling on his cars and then going back over it by hand with a long block and 2000. It's funny because you will have the surface smooth with the DA (no more low spots showing like you see in the pics above), yet when you go back over with a long block you will see the high points. I think a lot of it has to do with the interface pad too. I gave my old man a bunch of large cookie sheets to paint when he has left over material and I plan to do some testing on them once I get them back. (Thanks KB for the idea) ;)



2Sanding.jpg
 
Barry...those Norton 3000 disks do look a LOT like the Abralon though....







Trizact left, Arbalon right



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IMG_3208.jpg




close up

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Thanks for the heads up Barry. Definitely will look into the Nortons. BUT, have I been gone so long that folks are DRY-sanding?:noidea: I would've never considered this. Obviously this works out ok; do you sand the same way but with no water? I'll have to do a search. Great thread. :bigups



Derek
 
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