Bulk Wheel Cleaner

How about you go for some Sonax Wheel cleaner? It's safe, it wont hurt anything and it work wonder.



Don't come to me and say it's expensive, I use about...8oz per car ( maybe less, in fact), get deal at 10 liters for 150$, it comes down to 2.5$ per car.. heck, you can even dilute it 1:1 so it cost you 1.25$ to clean a set of wheel. so if you can't afford 1.25$ to clean 4 wheels, then I think you should stop detailing and do another career.
 
Has anyone tried Tarminator on platings(namely chrome)? I have been using it as a pre soak for just about every dirty mess i come across: bugs, grime, tar, u name it.



I have so far been using it on dirty *** wheels as a prep before scrub down with dawn or milder car cleaners. Just like i do with bugs and tar
 
cobraa said:
IMO, you should call yourself car wash and not detailing then.
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IMO, your comment has nothing to do with the topic.



Didn't know there was titles involved here. I make money. Pretty simple.

Oh yeah, I do 4-5 full details per week as well.
 
Justin Murphy- Thanks for not taking my post the wrong way. Sounds like you're going about it properly, and I don't want to sound all Chicken Little about it or anything...



l DaChOsEnOnE l said:
What would you recomend Accumulator?
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I don't really *have* a recommendation! Heh heh...didn't stop me from :nono though did it :o



The only time I deal with nasty wheels is when I buy some used vehicle and decide to clean up its wheels intead of just replacing them or getting them refinished. For that I've stretched a gallon of TOL's old acidic product out over the last decade or more.



I'd *probably* lean towards recommending the ValuGard stuff just because their products do what they say and they're upfront about how you oughta use them.



But if it came right down to it and I had to do some nasty wheels tomorrow....I'd run out the the local autobody/paint supply place and buy that Wheel Brightener!



I feel like a better question would be asking whats a good sealant that can used on all wheel types? Being that I have many repeat customers and I can clean then and seal them so I can just clean them with car soap and water from there on.
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I have mixed feelings about LSPing wheels, even though I used to advocate it without reservation.



But OK, if you want to go that route- if you can swing/pass along the cost, the OptiCoat is impressing me more and more, really changing my opinion the longer I live with it on the Tahoe's wheels. Otherwise, FK1000P or even maybe...!gasp! NuFinish :eek: Hey, we're talking about durability with only one coat here and those are the two that come to mind.



cobraa said:
IMO, you [Justin Murphy] should call yourself car wash and not detailing then.
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Ouch, that must've hurt :( Just because somebody does x% volume work, that doesn't mean they don't deserve to be considered a "detailer".
 
We can use products and talk about them without slander. Pretty simple to me.



Accumulator, me and you are mature enough, seen enough, and done enough to handle our discussions like men.
 
I appreciate all the info guys im think im going to go with the valugard cleaner. Quick question, do you think if I put some nufinish on the wheels, then washed them with dawn dish soap would it wash the layer of protection off?
 
l DaChOsEnOnE l said:
I appreciate all the info guys im think im going to go with the valugard cleaner. Quick question, do you think if I put some nufinish on the wheels, then washed them with dawn dish soap would it wash the layer of protection off?
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Just to take this a step further-- if you use a longer lasting sealer or specific "wheel wax," would it be more resistant to wheel cleaners? Or will pretty much any wheel cleaner in general strip off any wax or sealant?



Adam
 
IME Most acids and petroleum distillates type cleaners with get through a wax or sealant no problem



There is also the factor on the type of cleaner/wash used> and the scale of abrasiveness applied



More importantly i use opti seal on polished alum, chrome, painted wheels.! I can get by with several washes during a month and still bead.!



I think some people love to use that fk1000p wax on wheels as well too with great longetivity results.



So yes- if you ask me, it matters what you protect it with.
 
cobraa said:
How about you go for some Sonax Wheel cleaner? It's safe, it wont hurt anything and it work wonder.



Don't come to me and say it's expensive, I use about...8oz per car ( maybe less, in fact), get deal at 10 liters for 150$, it comes down to 2.5$ per car.. heck, you can even dilute it 1:1 so it cost you 1.25$ to clean a set of wheel. so if you can't afford 1.25$ to clean 4 wheels, then I think you should stop detailing and do another career.
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That is expensive:) You are paying for a brand name more then you are the product. If you're in business you need to be smarter then that.



There are alternatives that are very similar yet less expensive. We use a product called Bright-O from Ardex. It is an Alkaline, non-acid based cleaner. $50/5 gal...8oz per car at 4:1 costs $0.16.





When we run into extremely neglected wheels we use Buster from Ardex as a pretreater. But I won't let my employees work on a wheel when it is sitting on it. they must rinse first. This stuff is STRONG, like it'll burn your skin strong.
 
l DaChOsEnOnE l said:
I appreciate all the info guys im think im going to go with the valugard cleaner. Quick question, do you think if I put some nufinish on the wheels, then washed them with dawn dish soap would it wash the layer of protection off?
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-AND-



A.Bursell said:
Just to take this a step further-- if you use a longer lasting sealer or specific "wheel wax," would it be more resistant to wheel cleaners? Or will pretty much any wheel cleaner in general strip off any wax or sealant?
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I've never used the Wheel Wax, but from what I hear it's not all *that* special and not in a different class from, say....FK1000P or anything. So extrapolating from my experience (and that of others like Tom P.) with FK1000P:



-Dawn doesn't strip LSPs all *that* great, but it is tough on them

-Durable LSPs can resist some cleaning with most "mild" Wheel Cleaners (e.g., Griot's, P21s) but only for so long

-Doing the "LSP them and the wash with shampoo" works a *LOT* better on vehicles that are kinda pampered than it does on vehicles that are, uhm...kinda neglected



Now OptiCoat OTOH, that stuff really *is* something different. I probably sound like I'm really gushing about it, but it's worked out so much better (during winter conditions where I'm not being all that Autopian with it) than I was expecting that I can't help but be all :eek: :bow about it
 
Justin,



I used to use a lot of Acidic Cleaners, and I still have them here in the shop. I wouldn't being using them for maintence washes. Acidics are great once in a while for a reconditioning job where the wheel has been neglected, but there are many other alternatives. Acid eats into your bones, and can do some real nerve damage in long term use. I'm a walking example of this. I hardly have any feeling in my hands anymore and its not from polishing and carprool tunnel . Acid has litterly eaten away at the nerves in my hands and its no longer repairable. I never really read all those health hazard labels that people put on bottles years ago. Wish I would have.
 
cobraa said:
IMO, you should call yourself car wash and not detailing then.
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A little unnecessary in my opinion. Justin has proven his detail ability already on the forum and I respect the hell out of his business acumen.
 
:eek: :soscared: Im very sorry to hear of the permanent damage to your hands, Barry. You have *many* years left in the business too :( I sure hope the debilitation doesn't get any worse.
 
HF also attacks and removes calcium from the bones, it "sears" the lining of the lungs when you breath the fumes, etc, etc.

Grumpy
 
Barry Theal said:
Justin,



I used to use a lot of Acidic Cleaners, and I still have them here in the shop. I wouldn't being using them for maintence washes. Acidics are great once in a while for a reconditioning job where the wheel has been neglected, but there are many other alternatives. Acid eats into your bones, and can do some real nerve damage in long term use. I'm a walking example of this. I hardly have any feeling in my hands anymore and its not from polishing and carprool tunnel . Acid has litterly eaten away at the nerves in my hands and its no longer repairable. I never really read all those health hazard labels that people put on bottles years ago. Wish I would have.
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Holy Hell Barry. I had no idea. Point taken and I'm man enough to look into other options.



What would you recommend for bulk then?
 
Damn barry. I feel ya though. my nervous system has been through hell with body shop chemicals. like ospho, hydrochloric acids, alum cleaners, 2k paints, laquers. u name it.



Dont forget about ammonia everybody that is pretty toxic in its pure form.
 
Accumulator said:
Now OptiCoat OTOH, that stuff really *is* something different. I probably sound like I'm really gushing about it, but it's worked out so much better (during winter conditions where I'm not being all that Autopian with it) than I was expecting that I can't help but be all :eek: :bow about it
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I agree! My current wheels (and entire car) and done with OptiCoat. My new wheels are done with Matrix Micro Coatings (John Kleven Recommendation). I'm looking forward to seeing how it works, as I am more than please with the OC. BUT, not everyone does this-- so I wanted to know what to really expect with other wheels. I have been sealing them, and using mild cleaners when necessary -- but mostly just car wash soap. Sounds like I am on the right track. Thanks!



Adam
 
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