Buffing into/off edges

rusty bumper said:
Wouldn't it be a good idea to tape the edges for safety's sake?



you want to buff off the edge to make it look like the rest of the panel but buffing onto the edge makes to much heat and can burn threw easy
 
rusty bumper said:
Wouldn't it be a good idea to tape the edges for safety's sake?



you want to buff off the edge to make it look like the rest of the panel but buffing onto the edge makes to much heat and can burn threw easy
 
atticdog said:
you want to buff off the edge to make it look like the rest of the panel but buffing onto the edge makes to much heat and can burn threw easy

That makes sense, but I was thinking that a person could remove the tape and work the edges with a PC, or maybe by hand.
 
atticdog said:
you want to buff off the edge to make it look like the rest of the panel but buffing onto the edge makes to much heat and can burn threw easy

That makes sense, but I was thinking that a person could remove the tape and work the edges with a PC, or maybe by hand.
 
STICKY Please!!!!!!!!







Great Illustration Animes2K!!



I'm very glad to have another autopian concept clarified in my mind. Props 2 ya.
 
STICKY Please!!!!!!!!







Great Illustration Animes2K!!



I'm very glad to have another autopian concept clarified in my mind. Props 2 ya.
 
merci said:
Isn't it that you can tilt the rotary to avoid hitting the panel edge for both cases?



In my experience (which is by no means all-encompassing! I don't mean to sound like a know-it-all) no matter how you tilt the pad, working against the edge is more likely to cause trouble than working off it. I believe this is because of the way the direct-drive nature of the rotary works coupled with this- you *have* to get it onto the panel in a way that facilitates polishing but you can get it *off* the panel in a way that does *not* facilitate polishing.



Trying to move onto the panel without polishing and then "tilting it back" to start polishing once you're on the panel is problematic at best, at least for me. It seems to lead to "gouging" the paint. One way or another the pad has to come onto the panel to start polishing whereas going off the panel, you don't have to worry about continuing to contact/polish.



When you're working off the edge you can pretty much just "float over it"- tilting and lifting the pad so that it's barely contacting the panel at all in that area; I've had cases where shallow little scratches in that area didn't get buffed out. But when you're moving onto the edge the tilting seems to just move the contact from one area of the edge (the top corner) to another (the " back flat"). Dunno if I'm expressing myself clearly :o



I tried to key in explanatory diagrams but they didn't turn out remotely right :o
 
merci said:
Isn't it that you can tilt the rotary to avoid hitting the panel edge for both cases?



In my experience (which is by no means all-encompassing! I don't mean to sound like a know-it-all) no matter how you tilt the pad, working against the edge is more likely to cause trouble than working off it. I believe this is because of the way the direct-drive nature of the rotary works coupled with this- you *have* to get it onto the panel in a way that facilitates polishing but you can get it *off* the panel in a way that does *not* facilitate polishing.



Trying to move onto the panel without polishing and then "tilting it back" to start polishing once you're on the panel is problematic at best, at least for me. It seems to lead to "gouging" the paint. One way or another the pad has to come onto the panel to start polishing whereas going off the panel, you don't have to worry about continuing to contact/polish.



When you're working off the edge you can pretty much just "float over it"- tilting and lifting the pad so that it's barely contacting the panel at all in that area; I've had cases where shallow little scratches in that area didn't get buffed out. But when you're moving onto the edge the tilting seems to just move the contact from one area of the edge (the top corner) to another (the " back flat"). Dunno if I'm expressing myself clearly :o



I tried to key in explanatory diagrams but they didn't turn out remotely right :o
 
Accumulator said:
In my experience (which is by no means all-encompassing! I don't mean to sound like a know-it-all) no matter how you tilt the pad, working against the edge is more likely to cause trouble than working off it.



Hmmm... So how do you buff the passenger's side doors? The example shows how to buff off the edge of the driver's side doors. :confused:
 
Accumulator said:
In my experience (which is by no means all-encompassing! I don't mean to sound like a know-it-all) no matter how you tilt the pad, working against the edge is more likely to cause trouble than working off it.



Hmmm... So how do you buff the passenger's side doors? The example shows how to buff off the edge of the driver's side doors. :confused:
 
rusty bumper said:
Nice software!



CAD I presume?



nope. started in Photoshop then realized Illustrator was the better option.



thanks to everyone. I can see some ways to refine this. Perhaps there are other concepts I could illustrate :)
 
rusty bumper said:
Nice software!



CAD I presume?



nope. started in Photoshop then realized Illustrator was the better option.



thanks to everyone. I can see some ways to refine this. Perhaps there are other concepts I could illustrate :)
 
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