sammo123321
New member
I'm looking way into the future, but any suggestions or instructions on how replace the brakes on an 2002 Acura TL base type NOT S-Type. Also any suggestion on brake pad brands or types? Any help would be wonderful!
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Brake Replacement
- Thread starter sammo123321
- Start date
Sounds like you are going to DIY. Two things a DIY guy needs is a good repair manual (like the one from Acura) and some research resources such as forums (of course, on any forum, there is good and bad info).
I have done a LOT of brakes. Just not on your TL! Some basic info. Be sure you clean everything (non-cholorinated brake cleaner and various brushes). Be sure you get new backing plates, clips, anti squeal what ever your car has. Be sure you use the proper 'lubes' for caliper mating points, guide pins, pad backings, etc. Remove all the fluid from the master cylinder before you start.
Your rotor is probably held on by a screw that often will require and impact driver. At the very least, have some PB blaster or similar product on hand. A propane torch from the local hardware can at times come in handy as well with rusted bits as well as a BFH (big f'ing hammer!). The rotors also often rust to the hub. Have anto seize on hand so you can coat the hub and set screw when you replace and after you have cleaned up all gunk and corrosion. If you have electronic wear sensors, replace them. Replace the rotors. Sure you may be able to get away from not doing so but the cost of replacements for many cars is so reasonable, I just don't bother any more. Brembo blanks are hard to beat. Besides, to properly grind a rotor it should be blanchard ground and good luck finding some one to do it at at good price. Brembo's are already blanchard gound. Have and use a torque wrench to proper specs.
You do have proper jack stands and tire chalks do you not? I always give the car a good bump from a couple of angles once in the air to make sure it is going to stay that way, in the air! Never put a car up on stands on anything but a 'level' concrete surface. Place the tires under the frame when removed. It not only get them out of the way but should the car come down, hopefully it will come down on the rims and not on you.
Have a proper bleeder screw wrench. No need for a special piston tool, a C-clamp and block of wood works fine. Bleed yours brakes when done. No need for a special bleeding system, power bleeder, mitivac or any one of a number of other fancy tools. Just a couple hoses, jars, fresh brake fluid and your hand... yes, your hand. Crack the bleeders ONLY enough to allow fluid to pass, be sure the bleeder is always covered in fluid (get clear hose), be sure the end of the hose in the jar is always immersed in fluid. Pump slowly by hand, do not let the master cylinder run dry, continue until you see fresh, bubble free fluid. Close bleeders and feel the pedal. One person job. Personally, I use ATE Super Blue. But for half the price, Valvoline Synpower (not a synthetic) is readily available and an excellent value. Check your owners manual for the type of fluid required. DOT 3, 4 and 5.5 are compatable. DOT 5 (synthetic) is NOT with the others. Do not mix 5 with 3, 4 or 5.5 or the other way around and do not change over from one to the other. Besides, not a synthetic brake fluid fan myself.
While you are under there, take a good look around. Inspect struts and boots, suspension pieces, hoses (particuarly the brake flex hoses) and thing you can see or get your hands on. And since this is a detailing forum... well, you know what to do!
Take it easy on the brakes for a couple hundred miles or learn how to bed them properly.
Have your favorite beverage and enjoy!
I have done a LOT of brakes. Just not on your TL! Some basic info. Be sure you clean everything (non-cholorinated brake cleaner and various brushes). Be sure you get new backing plates, clips, anti squeal what ever your car has. Be sure you use the proper 'lubes' for caliper mating points, guide pins, pad backings, etc. Remove all the fluid from the master cylinder before you start.
Your rotor is probably held on by a screw that often will require and impact driver. At the very least, have some PB blaster or similar product on hand. A propane torch from the local hardware can at times come in handy as well with rusted bits as well as a BFH (big f'ing hammer!). The rotors also often rust to the hub. Have anto seize on hand so you can coat the hub and set screw when you replace and after you have cleaned up all gunk and corrosion. If you have electronic wear sensors, replace them. Replace the rotors. Sure you may be able to get away from not doing so but the cost of replacements for many cars is so reasonable, I just don't bother any more. Brembo blanks are hard to beat. Besides, to properly grind a rotor it should be blanchard ground and good luck finding some one to do it at at good price. Brembo's are already blanchard gound. Have and use a torque wrench to proper specs.
You do have proper jack stands and tire chalks do you not? I always give the car a good bump from a couple of angles once in the air to make sure it is going to stay that way, in the air! Never put a car up on stands on anything but a 'level' concrete surface. Place the tires under the frame when removed. It not only get them out of the way but should the car come down, hopefully it will come down on the rims and not on you.
Have a proper bleeder screw wrench. No need for a special piston tool, a C-clamp and block of wood works fine. Bleed yours brakes when done. No need for a special bleeding system, power bleeder, mitivac or any one of a number of other fancy tools. Just a couple hoses, jars, fresh brake fluid and your hand... yes, your hand. Crack the bleeders ONLY enough to allow fluid to pass, be sure the bleeder is always covered in fluid (get clear hose), be sure the end of the hose in the jar is always immersed in fluid. Pump slowly by hand, do not let the master cylinder run dry, continue until you see fresh, bubble free fluid. Close bleeders and feel the pedal. One person job. Personally, I use ATE Super Blue. But for half the price, Valvoline Synpower (not a synthetic) is readily available and an excellent value. Check your owners manual for the type of fluid required. DOT 3, 4 and 5.5 are compatable. DOT 5 (synthetic) is NOT with the others. Do not mix 5 with 3, 4 or 5.5 or the other way around and do not change over from one to the other. Besides, not a synthetic brake fluid fan myself.
While you are under there, take a good look around. Inspect struts and boots, suspension pieces, hoses (particuarly the brake flex hoses) and thing you can see or get your hands on. And since this is a detailing forum... well, you know what to do!
Take it easy on the brakes for a couple hundred miles or learn how to bed them properly.
Have your favorite beverage and enjoy!
A couple of more thoughts.....
If you are new to forums, the bad advise responses usually go something like this: "Dude you totally got to get the crossdrilled, slotted, performance package i got off ebay! Reduced stopping distance by 100 feet!" Nope, not going to happen. The contact are between the Tires and the road surface stop a car. If you can lock them or the ABS engages, no amount of improvement to the brakes is going to reduce stopping distance. None (OK so cars have to much front bias from the factory but that is another topic). It may help with other things but claims of reduced stopping distance is marketing.
Pads. Used them all. Unless I am trying to cure and issue (balance, fade, dust, whatever) I normally just use OEM and almost never but from the 'stealership'. Good pads usually are tapered, slotted and fully bonded (haven't seen a rivited one in years), flat CF curve over a wide range of temps. For instance, on my 740, the OEM bads dust like nobodys business. Great pads but the dust was rediculious. So, after much research I went with Akebono Euro Ceramics. While they don't have the same initial 'bite' as the OEM, the perform well and are nicely progressive. Be aware that if you change the CF of one set of pads you are messing with your brake balance. Another reason to generally go OEM unless you are doing a four wheel job and matching sets.
Since I don't expect you to do this, consider this more of an endorsement. I always inspect rotors for core shift (VERY rare these days) and axial and radial runout. I also index when possible. Not as common as it used to be but I have rejected brand new rotors for excessive runout. But, I don't recall in 30 years ever rejecting a Brembo (that was the endorsement part). If you want to be all sporty and go with slotted or drilled rotors, go for it. Just buy from a quality manufacturer and don't expect improvement in braking although you may experience reduced pad life and increased braking noise. Personally, I think crossdrilled rotors look cool, but that is about it, they just look cool.
If you are new to forums, the bad advise responses usually go something like this: "Dude you totally got to get the crossdrilled, slotted, performance package i got off ebay! Reduced stopping distance by 100 feet!" Nope, not going to happen. The contact are between the Tires and the road surface stop a car. If you can lock them or the ABS engages, no amount of improvement to the brakes is going to reduce stopping distance. None (OK so cars have to much front bias from the factory but that is another topic). It may help with other things but claims of reduced stopping distance is marketing.
Pads. Used them all. Unless I am trying to cure and issue (balance, fade, dust, whatever) I normally just use OEM and almost never but from the 'stealership'. Good pads usually are tapered, slotted and fully bonded (haven't seen a rivited one in years), flat CF curve over a wide range of temps. For instance, on my 740, the OEM bads dust like nobodys business. Great pads but the dust was rediculious. So, after much research I went with Akebono Euro Ceramics. While they don't have the same initial 'bite' as the OEM, the perform well and are nicely progressive. Be aware that if you change the CF of one set of pads you are messing with your brake balance. Another reason to generally go OEM unless you are doing a four wheel job and matching sets.
Since I don't expect you to do this, consider this more of an endorsement. I always inspect rotors for core shift (VERY rare these days) and axial and radial runout. I also index when possible. Not as common as it used to be but I have rejected brand new rotors for excessive runout. But, I don't recall in 30 years ever rejecting a Brembo (that was the endorsement part). If you want to be all sporty and go with slotted or drilled rotors, go for it. Just buy from a quality manufacturer and don't expect improvement in braking although you may experience reduced pad life and increased braking noise. Personally, I think crossdrilled rotors look cool, but that is about it, they just look cool.
sammo123321
New member
Thanks for such a heft and speedy reply! I think I may have a auto shop do the brake work on my car! I had no idea how intricate it actually was, and I really don't want to mess anything up especially when it comes to my ability to brake!