brake material questions

M

medic

New member
So I got a brake inspection done at Midas and my front pads are down to 1/32 inch. I gotta switch the pads this weekend. They also said my front rotors aren't bad, but are too thin to be turned any more so I'll need to get them fixed. Also, there's a slight leak in the caliper, but not enough to register a change in the master cylinder level. Midas wanted over 700 for the parts and labor which is crazy for the generic stuff they sell.



Anyway, I need to know what material pads and rotors to get? I'm gonna buy the stuff from NAPA or some local auto store since I don't think I can really wait to get brembos in the mail. Also, I'm not looking for drilled or slotted since my car is all stock - it doesn't go fast enough to have to stop that fast



I haven't done a brake job before, but I've got a friend that's going to be around to help me if I get in trouble. But I do have a few questions that the search didn't answer. Should I be getting metalic, semi-metalic, or organic pads? Also, does anyone know what rotors are better - Napa United, Tru-Stop, or Beck Arnley? Also, do I need to get a new hardware kit or can I just use the ones currently on the brakes...they're not damaged in any way. If there are better brands like Raybestos I can get locally, I'd like to get those instead - cost isn't really the issue but I was good performance for everyday driving, low noise, and hopefully low dusting.



Sorry for all the questions, but once I have the car apart, it's not like I can go back to get the right parts.



Thanks. I have a 93 Maxima SE (fwd) btw - I posted in the maxima forums, but extra input is always good.
 
CERAMIC PADS



Raybestos Quiet Stop Plus pads are a ceramic compound and they stop even better than the Axxis Metal Master Pads I used to have and shed almost no dust.



Go with OEM style rotors (with the same style inner fins for cooling), or performance rotors. You might want to see if any wrecking yards have some with more meat on them than yours and have them turned.



Change the caliper or rebuild the leaking one. Don't cheap out on stuff like that. Rebuilt ones shouldn't be more than $50.
 
Hmm, I should pay attention to this thread too. In the spring I'll probably have to replace my rear pads.



The last thing I read on the Org was that OEM (organic) was the best balance between performance, dusting, and rotor wear. I don't like the idea of semi-metallic personally because they tend to squeal a bit when cold. I'll see what else is suggested here and X-reference it at the Org. :)



Ceramic pads don't wear the rotors more?



BTW, unless you have warped rotors or bad grooves in them, me and my father have NEVER had the rotors turned. We just replace the pads in the driveway and be done with it. It's never caused any problems. :nixweiss
 
I guess it depends on what you want the brakes to do. If you suffer from brake fade a lot, then you need harder pads but will tend to work less well from cold. OEM pads for some reason have a bad name but most OE pads are very good for a wide group of drivers. I would try a forum that talks about your car and the way you drive it and see what folk recommend. It is sexy to have super exotic brakes on your car but do you need them?



Steven
 
Most disc brake systems are not hard to work on. I replaced the front pads on my Town Car a few weeks ago. I just used OEM pads, I always had pretty good luck with them. They are an organic pad I believe. I would not go with a full metallic pad, they are way to hard on rotors. Ceramic pads don't fade and wear well, but they are also harder on rotors.



I'm not sure what is going on with your rotors. Does the car shake, or a pulse, when you apply the brakes? If the rotors meet minimum thickness specs and lateral runout is within spec then they don't need to be turned. $700 for Midas is a joke, you should be able to do front brakes (with Rotors) for less than $300 if you do the work yourself. Since you have never done this before it will probably take the better part of a couple hours, but it's worth learning. It will save you a bunch of $$$$$ down the road.
 
EDBSO said:
More than you ever wanted to know about brakes here.
Click to expand...
Hmm, thanks for the link, but keep in mind that they wrote that nice article with racing or competition driving in mind. It's not really the greatest article for "everyone". They seem to think lowly of normal organic pads, but for a lot of people and situations they do just fine.



I would think carbon metallic would be overkill for this application, and I'm pretty sure I've read about how people have experienced a lot of dusting with their Hawk and Porterfield pads.



Another thing I read about on the Org, and made me pause a moment, was how people reported they had to be careful with the first couple stops in the mornings with their performance pads (can't remember if these were the Raybestos QS's or Axxis pads). They only worked well once warmed up a bit.



I'm weighing between the Raybestos QS pads or OEM pads now. More braking performance would be nice, but I don't heat up my current brakes too much anyway.:nixweiss
 
HmM I use Endless 24slot Rotors and Endless Vita Nuova pads.. I think Im gonna upgrade to the NA Type Y for the next just to see how much better...





the VN pads kick ***.. I dont know what they are made of. but the dust is just about non-existant and my stopping power is sooo good and its quiet. not one peep.



I had the AEM or Axis Metal masters.(same thing just repackaged/renamed) and they sucked.. dusted and were noisy..

the braking was adaquate.. better then stock.. but not as good as the endless.. my only complaint is these endless ones were pretty pricy... 129 for the front but id get them again.



I heard good stuff about EBC pads too but never tried them
 
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