Boiled Linseed Oil.......substitute for plastic dressing!

Lots of good products on the market but most of them remain oily and attract dust. They also wash off and you get varying levels of durability.

I think what most were looking for here was something that would last a long time on the cowl trim and lower black plastic trim. I have tried one area on my daily driver and we'll see how it lasts over the next several months. If it works as anticipated then I will use it in addition to some of the other products. It'd be great on some harder to reach areas if you only had to detail them once every 6 months.
 
since i saves everyone money and time by posting this old trick.....all donations can either be mailed in form of certified check, or paypal works too!





im glad people are actually seeing that this works, instead of flamming me for posting something kinda off the wall. thats why i like this forum....people are very open to ideas, esecially when they save time and money!
 
I tend to use up the stuff I don't like on wheel wells, Spray it up and around. It would only be a short time and the ww will be dirty again.

When using the boiled linseed oil you should give it at least 12 hours to dry. Otherwise it will attract and hold any dirt.
 
Blake said:
When using the boiled linseed oil you should give it at least 12 hours to dry. Otherwise it will attract and hold any dirt.
Click to expand...



x100. ive even heard as much as 20 hours, but it MUST be dry to the touch before you put it anywhere where dust, dirt, anything could land on it.
 
Ok so I tried this with a 60:40 thinner/boiled linseed oil mix. I ended up using too much. That's sort of my life story with car care products... Anyway... I have let it dry for a little over a full 24 hours and it is tacky to the touch. I took a piece that's not normally visible (under the hood) that I had put the oil on to examine. It has a fairly high gloss but when I use my finger and lightly rub, the top glossy layer comes off fairly easily. Sort of like rubber cement. Then it leaves a more flat black underneath. The good news is the flat black underneath looks good. The bad news is what to do now.



I tried rinsing it in soapy water. Didn't do anything. I tried APC. Nothing. Currently I'm letting it dry longer... Any ideas? I really hope I don't have to rub this top layer off manually since I put this stuff all in between the huge honeycomb grille on my Charger SRT. :doh
 
Are you sure you used boiled linseed oil as there is also linseed oil. If you used linseed oil instead of boiled linseed oil it will not dry anytime soon. Like maybe never. Ask me how I know ... we never discuss that! :chuckle:
 
teacherray said:
Are you sure you used boiled linseed oil as there is also linseed oil. If you used linseed oil instead of boiled linseed oil it will not dry anytime soon. Like maybe never. Ask me how I know ... we never discuss that! :chuckle:
Click to expand...



Oh man lol. Did you use regular linseed oil on your car?



I definitely used boiled linseed oil but I think my problem is using way too much. This is the stuff I used:



21bq3mKyYIL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
Dan79 said:
Ok so I tried this with a 60:40 thinner/boiled linseed oil mix. I ended up using too much. That's sort of my life story with car care products... Anyway... I have let it dry for a little over a full 24 hours and it is tacky to the touch. I took a piece that's not normally visible (under the hood) that I had put the oil on to examine. It has a fairly high gloss but when I use my finger and lightly rub, the top glossy layer comes off fairly easily. Sort of like rubber cement. Then it leaves a more flat black underneath. The good news is the flat black underneath looks good. The bad news is what to do now.



I tried rinsing it in soapy water. Didn't do anything. I tried APC. Nothing. Currently I'm letting it dry longer... Any ideas? I really hope I don't have to rub this top layer off manually since I put this stuff all in between the huge honeycomb grille on my Charger SRT. :doh
Click to expand...



Ok so since then I've let it dry for another day. I tried various cleaners to get the tacky top layer off with no luck. The only thing that has worked so far is a dry microfiber towel and a lot of scrubbing... White residue comes off and underneath is a really great looking black but it is taking a lot of time. Next time I will use MUCH less of the mix. :o
 
I think your problem was the 60% thinner mix you used. Thinner will eat away and soften plastic. I would think to be safe the mixture would have to be more linseed and less thinner.
 
It's a great tip, but if dust gets in it it is really difficult to clean out once it's dry. We use it on some of our older vans that still have the black plastic bumpers and it holds it's shine for ages. Previous to that we were using older style dressings that were basically silicone and they were slowly bleaching the colour. The oil stopped that and saves a lot of time on fleet vehicles.

I wouldn't recommend letting it sit for too long on anything other than the plastics that you want to add shine too though, even a thin layer can be difficult to clean off later. We had a VW dealer that used to use it but their in-house guys were pretty slap happy and would often get it on the filler panels between the bumpers and the lights. It made polishing pretty difficult.

How did we clean it? I can't remember, now we just make sure we don't get it on there.
 
I finally gave this a shot. My Avalanche cladding is extremely sun bleached and weather beaten. All other dressings like 303 and eagle 1 didn't last very long, my truck is awesome looking in all other respects.



I applied the linseed in direct sunlight, sparingly (and carefully) with an old Tshirt rag. I rubbed it into the cladding (thoroughly) and let it sit for 30 minutes or so before I went over it one more time with a clean rag to buff it in further. The linseed was dry in an hour and so far it looks spectacular.





This seems like a 5 star tip!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top