blackfire????????

M

midyearroadster

New member
Here's my plan for winter washing, as its cold in Midwest in the winter.



I live in a ranch style home, I am on a corner lot, with a walk out basement, I have a double car garage on the main level,single car under the house .....14W X30 L .



Nothting in that garage but a work bench, one wall is concrete block, the other is drywall, ceiling is drywalled. The concrete wall is 90% under ground, there's heat on the drywall side it never gets below 45 degs, the garage has a heater that I can get the temp to 70, no matter what, there a great floor slope, from front to rear (garage door).



I am considering haveing a section of the concrete floor 4x12 cut and removed, 2 ft from the door, and from there I will install a 40 gal sump for water to drain into. Of course when the new concrete is poured, it will be formed to drain into the sump. A one inch plywood cover, will keep anyone from falling in.



I thought of installing a sump pump, to drain the dirty water, but the grit would ,shorten the life of the pump. So after a wash I intend to use a 10 gal shop vac to remove the water. I think I can rinse the car with 15 gals of water.



I think I can do all of this for under , $250. ..I'll do the labor. Naturally I won't be able to wash the car with a full force of water,a stream of one foot out the hose will work. Nor will I be able to let it run constantly.Just during rinseing. Am I crazy!





Sorry if I posted in the wrong place. Tom
 
If you spray inside, your going to get other things wet. Your going to spray the drywall and make a mess.



If your saying the place is heated, I would just roll the car outside, wet it, bring it in, get a bucket with water, soap up the car, bring it back out to rinse and bring it back in to dry and detail.



If your garage is 70 degre's then your car wont freeze.
 
Some people are going to disagree with it, but in some cases since heat is a catylist to oxidation, the car's rust faster. Especially where they use salt which can speed up the oxidation evenfurther.



Take a salted snowy car and put it into a 70°F garage (not washing it or anything) and it'll speed up the oxidation reaction reall quick), so maybe a lower temperature might be better.



But if it's clean and dry and you're waxing and stuff, then turn it up :)



As for the pump, it sounds cool, but as you said water will flow off anyways (I wash in my garage) and I don't use much water.
 
In lieu covering your pitt with wood may I reccomend a piece of 1" or thicker steel bar grating. Install a proper ledge and it will help in case you drive in the pit one day. I would use 2" though for a car. Like the car washes. IF the span is less than 24" you should be ok with the 1" and a normal car.



As for the pumps get a bilge pump from a local marine store it uses impellers so it will handle crud ok. plus hook up some hard piping through the slab so it can pump when the float switch is activated. This would be cool than you would not have to worry about too using much water. This could be cool.



Paint the walls with a gloss paint and it will deflect the water some what to lessen water damage or get some heavy vinyl wall paper. OR plastic tiles would help. But sheet rock eats up water and then gets moldy yuck!
 
to rinse the car in the garage.



At the present I have a 6in cedar base board on the drywall sided wall, with clear plastic 48inches stapled to the drywall.



When the house was built, I told the contractor pouring the floor to make a slope in the concrete next to the drywall.So When I wash the floor,water will notflow to that wall.



Both walls are painted with a semi Gloss paint.





I do have a de-humdifier I could run after washing, altho I was parking in that garage for a few winters,I never brushed off the snow before pulling in, moisture never seemed t be a problem.



I appreciate everyones comments, guess I will think about it more.
 
I rinse in my garage, in the winter, the air is drier (and not much mold problems in a naturally refridgerated garage :) ).



if you live in warmer weather parts, then wash outside!
 
I'm curently using Klasse aol & Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze 33 and would like to try BLACKFIRE for my toyota tundra and my Honda ST1300motorcycle(PLASTIC) and to get the 10% discount for Fathers day what should i order for a wax and sealant in the Blackfire product line and is it that much better than KLASSE?
THANKS
Dean:notworthy:
 
Our Blackfire products are the result yrs of research with top of the line polymers from Germany. BLACKFIRE waxes and sealants wipe on and buff off easily without streaks or hazy patches and with a shine that can last for six months or more. All BLACKFIRE products are surface-friendly and VOC compliant in all 50 states. These water-based formulas clean, condition, polish and protect without the strong solvents found in most car care products.

The Wet-Ice over Fire Shine Kit contains:

* 16 oz. Wet Diamond, All Finish Paint Protection
* 7 oz. Midnight Sun, Ivory Carnauba Paste Wax
* 16 oz. Deep Gloss Spray Sealant
* One Blackfire Gold Euro-Foam Applicator Pad
* Two Perfect Shine Buffing Cloths
* Instructions

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Introduced in 1979, Klasse's popular product, All-In-One polishes away oxidation and leaves a deep acrylic shine that can last for 6 months. All-In-One is not a wax, silicone or polymer but an acrylic formula. It really is different. All-In-One bonds to the surface like a regular car wax but doesn?t penetrate or change the paint in any way. It matches the depth and clarity of a high quality carnauba wax but lasts much longer. Two applications a year will keep your car looking great.

All-In-One contains a real polish. It removes minor surface films, old wax, minor swirls, and oxidation. It?s a true one-step product. It cleans, polishes and protects in one easy step. Use Klasse All-In-One on all one stage and clear coat paints, gelcoat and painted fiberglass, convertible windows, all clear plastic, finished wood furniture, porcelain, tile, marble, glass, chrome, aluminum, stainless steel and all metals. High Gloss Sealant Glaze, provides an additional protective layer over the All-In-One with an exceptionally brilliant mirror-like shine.


classic-motoring_2109_22235686.gif



Blackfire gets the edge in slickness, shine, feel, looks and durability but there nothing wrong at all using Klasse products.............:wizard:
 
great info!!! im also thinking some for myself(blackfire).
i have klasse and i idk if im putting it on wrong but i find it leaves streeks
 
Bfwd wow

The BFWD sealant is hands down a great product all around. Its also easy to apply and remove as well. I live in Maine and it stands up to the harsh elements and road conditions here as well. Sand, Salt, and the like, its a great product...

Depending on your enthusiasm you can top with wax or stand alone whatever floats your boat. I am sure it will be your go to sealant for a long time...:clap:Director:notworthy:
 
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