Blackfire Midnight Sun Batch Difference

Bobby G

New member
by David W. Bynon

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Every car finish shares a common enemy. It relentlessly pursues your car from the second it leaves the factory until your car meets its ultimate demise. The enemy is pollution. It's in the air we breathe, it's on the roads we drive, and it attaches to your car's paint, where it bonds and begins a process of oxidation.



When contaminates get a solid grip on your car's paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners, also, may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices, use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound. Clay is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminates.



One of the many reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust contamination, which attaches to painted rear bumpers and adjoining surfaces, is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively using clay. Likewise, clay is effective on paint over-spray. If the over-spray is particularly heavy, you may want to seek the assistance of a professional. Tree sap and tar specks can also be safely removed with a clay bar.



How do you know if you need to use a clay bar? After thoroughly hand washing your car, feel the surface. Do you feel bumps and rough spots? These bumps are contaminants attacking the finish of your car. Removing these surface contaminates (road tar, acid rain spots, bug residue, paint over-spray, brake pad dust, hard water spots, etc) will improve both the look and health of your car's paint. By the way, you can magnify your sense of touch by inserting your fingertips into a sandwich bag or a piece of cellophane.



No matter how well you hand-washed your car, many of the contaminants that have worked their way into your car's paint finish will remain. Have you ever looked at your foam wax applicator pad after applying a coat of wax? What do you think that black stuff is? It's dirt, and you're waxing over it, sealing it in.



Clay itself isn't new. In fact, it's one of the most common compounds on earth. However, it is fairly new to the car detailing market. Clay bars are made of fine clay particles in a soft, malleable "clay" medium that allows the bar to be formed and kneaded. Some clay makers add color to make the bar more attractive or to identify bars of differing strength.



Many clay products claim to contain no abrasives. This is stretching the truth. The reason most clay manufacturers claim they don't contain an abrasive is because the general public thinks the word "abrasive" refers only to aggressive, paint removing materials. The fact is the abrasives in most automotive clay products are so fine that you will not see any reduction in paint gloss. After several uses, paint luster may even improve.



Before using a clay bar on your car, you must thoroughly clean and dry your car to remove any loose dirt. Direct sunlight should not fall on your car's surface, and it's best if the work area is relatively cool to prevent rapid evaporation of the clay lubricant.



To use the clay bar, you spray a water-based lubricant on a small area of your car and rub the bar back and forth with light to medium pressure. If the lubricant begins to dry, you'll need to spray more. Clay bars are fairly sticky, and can not be used dry. Try using it dry and you'll make a mess.



After a few passes with the clay bar, rub your hand over the area to feel if the surface contamination was removed. Keep rubbing until all contamination bumps are gone. Finally, wipe the clay residue off with a soft terry cloth towel, and buff to a nice luster. Just like waxing, work in small areas.



Check the clay bar frequently for hard particles. When found, pick them off. Make it a habit to occasionally knead and reform the bar so that a fresh portion of the bar contacts your car's paint. If you drop your bar of clay on the ground, it's history, toss it out. Don't take any chances, discard the clay bar if it becomes impregnated with grit.



When you're finished claying your car, you should go over it with a pre-wax cleaner to finish cleaning the paint and restore essential oils. Then, protect your newly cleaned finish with one or more coats of rich Carnauba wax.



Clay products offer many advantages in the removal of surface contamination from paint. First, even in the hands of a lay person, it is difficult to do any damage to your paint with clay. Sure, if you use a dirty clay bar, scratches can result. However, compared to machine buffing, polishing or sanding, clay is much safer.



<font size="1">All products mentioned in this article are available from Classic Motoring Accessories and are used at the buyer's own risk.  Autopia is not affiliated with and does not represent Classic Motoring Accessories or the manufacturers of the products mentioned.</font>
 
I understand the need to thoroughly wash and clean surface prior to using clay. Not having attempted this as yet, I have been seeing references to using a "dawn soap wash" prior to using the clay. What I am trying to find out is if it is necessary to remove existing wax on the surface prior to using the clay, i.e., does the clay take off the wax coat as well as removing the effects of pollution, oxidation, etc?



Also is the "clay" product the same for clear coat and non-clear coat paint?
 
i got some pinnacle clay a couple of months back, and didn't have the time and/or the balls to try it on a car -- until last weekend.



it's awesome -- and fast and easy to use.



so here's what i did...



- wash a portion of the car

- rinse it off

- put soapy water / suds back on

- rub it with the clay

- wash and rinse again



you can really feel when the clay has finished doing its magic. it takes 3-5 light, fast passes over an area, and it's smooth as glass.



the next time i do it, i'll do the Dawn wash first, because i think i was picking up a lot of wax with the clay, probably shortening its life.



also, i'll keep an extra bucket of clean suds for clay lube. maybe a spray bottle. we'll see.



anyhow, the car's finish that i thought was permanently rough is so smooth, i love it.



it also gave me a chance to try out my new PC that i got for christmas putting wax back onto the car.



hopefully, if anyone else is sitting on the fence like i was, reading my experience will help to "see the light" and get that clay out!
 
The clay can get pretty sticky so I use thin latex (medical exam) gloves and spray the gloves with the lubricant before I pick up the clay. Keeps the clay out from under my fingernails too.



Take particular attention to the areas around tape pinstriping. You want to clay in the same direction as the tape or you will wind up with clay jammed under the edges of the tape. A real pain to remove. Easier to prevent than to correct. :xyxthumbs
 
Using Dawn is just another way of cleaning. I personally don't agree with the use of detergents. The are very hard on rubber and plastic. My preference is to wash with your favorite car wash, dry, clay and follow with a good pre-wax cleaner.



db
 
DavidB said:
Using Dawn is just another way of cleaning. I personally don't agree with the use of detergents. The are very hard on rubber and plastic. My preference is to wash with your favorite car wash, dry, clay and follow with a good pre-wax cleaner.



db



i just have to say this....



YOU ARE THE MAN!!!:bow, thanx for all the great info u provide :)



appreciated. im actually gonna try out that scratch repair thread tomorrow cuz i dented my bumper today :(
 
Should i use tar remover or solvents to remove all existing wax before claying? If not, wouldn't the clay will be loaded with the existing wax and thus resulting in its efficiency being reduced?
 
myauto said:
Do i need to remove all existing wax before claying using tar remover or solvents? If not, can the clay get to the contaminations embeded below the wax layer? If you say the clay can clean the wax at the same time, wouldn't the clay will be loaded with the existing wax and thus reducing its efficiency?



No need to strip wax before claying. When you apply wax, 98% of it comes right back off the car on the towel. The coating is very, very thin. Plus, clay only removes particles standing up on the surface. The clay floats over the paint surface on the lubricant. It sheers off anything that's above the paint surface.
 
DavidB said:
Using Dawn is just another way of cleaning. I personally don't agree with the use of detergents. The are very hard on rubber and plastic. My preference is to wash with your favorite car wash, dry, clay and follow with a good pre-wax cleaner.



db



this is what it says on the zaino site

"I don't advise making a habit of washing your car with Dawn. But for this scenario it's fine. High alkaline products like Dawn are tough on polishes. It will never harm the paint finish though. A car wash is made specifically to clean without removing durable polishes. ALSO, Make sure you remove any water spots, before you apply my products. Because Zaino has no abrasives or harsh solvents it will not remove water spots or stains. Z-18 ClayBar is great for removing any paint surface contaminants. Re-wash the entire vehicle with Z-7 Car Wash immediately after the ClayBar

Cleaning Process."



im guessing you dont agree right?
 
Sal Zaino has his own way of doing things. I'm not going to say it's wrong, it's just not how I maintain my cars. Even when I use Zaino polish, I clean my paint with a non-abrasive pre-wax cleaner, not with Dawn. Sal's right, Dawn used before polishing won't hurt the paint. It's not the paint I'm worried about... it's the rubber, vinyl and plastic.



db
 
DavidB said:
Sal Zaino has his own way of doing things. I'm not going to say it's wrong, it's just not how I maintain my cars. Even when I use Zaino polish, I clean my paint with a non-abrasive pre-wax cleaner, not with Dawn. Sal's right, Dawn used before polishing won't hurt the paint. It's not the paint I'm worried about... it's the rubber, vinyl and plastic.



db



o, i see your point. what does it do to the rubber vinyl and plasitc pieces on the outside of your car? will it also affect my headlights, tail lights, bumper lenses or more like the plastic or rubber side skirts and rubber along the edges of my windows?
 
We're all familiar with how dish washing detergent dries our hands and makes our skin red and chapped. It does the same to rubber, vinyl and plastic (to a lesser extent). There's no way to treat all of the rubber... you can only treat what is exposed.
 
DavidB said:
Even when I use Zaino polish, I clean my paint with a non-abrasive pre-wax cleaner, not with Dawn. Sal's right, Dawn used before polishing won't hurt the paint. It's not the paint I'm worried about... it's the rubber, vinyl and plastic.



db



I couldn't agree more. :xyxthumbs



I get best results when using a paint cleaner, regardless of the final protectant I plan to use.
 
What am I missing here? As I understand the Zaino process:



1. Drive the new car home from the dealer.

2. First wash with Dawn.

3. Clay with Zaino carwash/lubricant.

4. Zaino system after that (including clay, as needed, with Zaino carwash/lubricant).



I can't imagine any damage being done with ONE washing using Dawn in the life of the car.
 
I like a few products:



1. P21S Paintwork Cleansing Lotion

2. Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish

3. Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion

4. Platinum Polish



Take your pick... they are all a low abrasive polish (less than one micron polishing particle) and have a low solvent level.
 
Hey David,



I use Swissol. I've found it better than Zymol.



I use a 3M clay bar, and lube it with the car wash I use. Then wash the car again.



Then I use 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze by hand.



The Zymol HD Clense. (This is an awesome cleaner.)



Then Swissol Clener-fluid pre-wax oil



Then two coats of Swissol Canuba.



I pick up my new M5 in about 4 weeks and I am going to detail myself.



Question, After they have gernied it to remove the shipping wax etc, I will wash it again. I feel that I should clay the paintwork next.



A lot of people say not to clay brand new paint work. But I believe it will be filthy and the clay will bring out its true colour. Whats your take on this. :D
 
Mirror, congrats on your new M5. What a great machine.



I think new cars should be clayed to that you can remove contamination and put down a good layer of protection. Clay will not harm new paint, if that's what people are thinking.



BTW, I have old pictures of swissol products in the original "Zymol" packaging. Seems to me there is some connection.



Yes, you're right, I forgot to mention HD-Cleanse. However, I do believe the original HD-Cleanse formula (Meguiar's version) is much better than the current product.



db
 
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