black trim

If the trim is still in pretty good condition, I would recommend Ultima Tire and Trim Guard. It's a sealant that dries clear and provides the most durable protection I have come across in a trim dressing. I haven't tried it on trim that is in seriously degraded condition, so I do not know how well it restores trim to a more "like new" condition.



I have tried Meguiar's Gold Class Trim Detailer on degraded trim, and I was very pleased with the outcome. It also lasted longer than I expected.
 
What kind of black trim are you talking about? Is it plastic, rubber-ish, or something else? What kind of trim would make a difference in the type of product you would use for best results.
 
D Tailor said:
What kind of black trim are you talking about? Is it plastic, rubber-ish, or something else? What kind of trim would make a difference in the type of product you would use for best results.
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Some black plastic trim just doesn't accept the Klasse twins approach for some reason. I've never found a definitive cause why, besides wear; it almost always works if the plastic is in OK condition, but on rare occasions it just doesn't :nixweiss It's not something as simple as oxidation/minor wear either, as the runningboard faces of the Yukon accepted KAIO/KSG just fine after I cleaned them up and those were plenty abused by the time I bought it.



But generally, if the plastic is compromised (think abraded plastic wheelwell liners) then this approach won't work well. If it looks OK, the the approach oughta be worth a try if you want to try something other than the conventional dressing-based approach.



There are a scad of different plastic and rubber materials on the exterior of the Yukon, and I have the Klasse twins and/or FK1000P on all of them with the exception of two pliable rubber flaps on the cowling at the base of the windshield (I have Sonus rubber/trim sealant on those). I have the Klasse twins on all the exterior rubber/plastic of the MPV and it's been working fine for eight years.



I use Souveran on the Jag's exterior plastic/rubber (been using wax for that on it since the '80s, though it won't work on the foglight covers for some reason). I used 845 on the Blazer. I used both 845 and 476S(!) on the Volvo 240 wagon's rubber/plastic and AFAIK the current owner is still using 845.



The UPP I use on the S8 is a bit more finicky and doesn't work well on plastics with significant texture. The old liquid version worked OK.
 
Accumulator said:
Some black plastic trim just doesn't accept the Klasse twins approach for some reason. I've never found a definitive cause why, besides wear; it almost always works if the plastic is in OK condition, but on rare occasions it just doesn't :nixweiss It's not something as simple as oxidation/minor wear either, as the runningboard faces of the Yukon accepted KAIO/KSG just fine after I cleaned them up and those were plenty abused by the time I bought it.



But generally, if the plastic is compromised (think abraded plastic wheelwell liners) then this approach won't work well. If it looks OK, the the approach oughta be worth a try if you want to try something other than the conventional dressing-based approach.



There are a scad of different plastic and rubber materials on the exterior of the Yukon, and I have the Klasse twins and/or FK1000P on all of them with the exception of two pliable rubber flaps on the cowling at the base of the windshield (I have Sonus rubber/trim sealant on those). I have the Klasse twins on all the exterior rubber/plastic of the MPV and it's been working fine for eight years.



I use Souveran on the Jag's exterior plastic/rubber (been using wax for that on it since the '80s, though it won't work on the foglight covers for some reason). I used 845 on the Blazer. I used both 845 and 476S(!) on the Volvo 240 wagon's rubber/plastic and AFAIK the current owner is still using 845.



The UPP I use on the S8 is a bit more finicky and doesn't work well on plastics with significant texture. The old liquid version worked OK.
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Thanks again for giving the empirical response I was getting to. ALthough my question was meant for the OP's trim (not your Accumulator) it is actually the point I was making in my post. I use different kinds of items on trim from waxes to dye depending on the textile, texture, and desired look outcome. DO they want it shiney or matte, short term or permanent. Heck, awhile back I even posted how I used a heat gun. But thanks Accum. I love the way you state your advice with practical thought and how you've been experimenting with the use of products for decades. I always find something in your posts worth putting in my pocket.
 
I'm a fan of 303 Aerospace Protectant not only for interior vinyl and plastic but for seals, exterior plastics and tires! For exterior plastics and tires, I spray on then use a paint brush to get full + coverage. I leave it set pretty wet, then much later may gently wipe/buff with a MF towel. Comes out looking like new. Leaves tires looking like brand new tires, rather than plastic looking dressings.
 
RyanFee said:
What if im looking for something permanent, what are my options?
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Permanent in the sense of a dye/recoloring or permanent in the sense of KSG being a "semi-permanent build film" as, IIRC, Mike Phillips once called it.



I did the MPV's black trim over a year ago with many layers of KSG, and since then I've refreshed it maybe twice with Sonus Acrylic Spritz. Other than that I've just washed it and used FK425 when drying. Still looks like I just did it yesterday/ Heh heh, to *me*, over a year qualifies as "permanent".
 
Leatherique makes a Black Rubber Dye that I feel to be semi-permanent. I use it when restoring seals, the rubber surrounding door hinges, bumper trim, etc. You have to make sure to "stip" any type of oils from the surface for it to adhere well. I use a sponge brush for application.
 
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