Black NSX, 56k warning

sftempest66

New member
I was kind of disappointed with this outcome, no matter what I tried, I couldn't eliminate the micromarring that I was encountering with the PC, I really think I'm going to step up and learn how to use a rotary to try and finish down cars nicer, especially when they are this bad...Now you may say that under the halogens the car looks perfect, well it did, but under my Xenon light, I could still see a decent amount of micromarring that I couldn't get rid of....I'm not sure if the batch of OP that I'm using is bad or what lol, but the car was just not finishing down like I wanted it too, Orange LC Pad/OP took pretty much everything out, and then I'd try to work in the OP on a white LC pad but even then it still wouldn't eliminate the micromarring, it didn't even seem to help??? I ended up going with this:



Exterior:

Wash with NXT wash

Spot Clay (Pinnacle)

LC Orange pad/OP via PC

LC White pad (only on a few select areas, didn't seem to do anything???)

LC White pad Optimum Poliseal

Black Pad/P21 S



Interior:

Vacuum

Leather with Pinnacle's leather conditioner

Poorboys Trim restorer

etc....



Before/Afters..

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Here is the OP completely broken down...

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Here is the hood after...Sorry for the weird angle!!!

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Now here is a picture of the micromarring, this was a bad area, most of it was not THIS bad, but it was still evident, which was extremely frustrating and I'm still unhappy/upset about giving him back the car with the micromarring, I really hate putting out crappy quality work but I tried my best and I just could not get it to come out...I'm very pissed off to tell you the truth lol



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But what was funny, is that the sun peaked out, and I inspected it thoroughly in the sun and I couldn't find it at all...which was strange as you can see here



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Anyways, onto some more afters...

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After Poliseal/P21S

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Any advice on what rotary/pads to purchase would be greatly appreciated, and I'd like to switch lines, I haven't been that pleased with the Optimum line that I've been using for the past 6 months lately, I think it's time for me to switch it up
 
I don't have any advice for you, but i can say that you did a great job. If it was my NSX i would be very happy with you. Very Nice work bro!:goodjob
 
ttsoca said:
I don't have any advice for you, but i can say that you did a great job. If it was my NSX i would be very happy with you. Very Nice work bro!:goodjob

The owner was ecstatic, he wasn't the kind to really care about the swirls, but I know the micromarring is there and I just would have liked to finish the car out a little nicer and yes I know its older paint (original 70k miles) and all, but it's still eating at me! Thank you though! It was a neat car and fun to drive, the owner and I "swapped cars" for the day :chuckle:
 
Looks awesome! Thats about as close to perfect as it gets! :thumbup:



How old are you? You look pretty young to be a detailer.
 
Car came out super! For rotory, I use Presta Ultra Cutting Creme Light. It cuts fast and removes defects quickly and it will leave a bright and clear gloss. For heavy correcting I also use a wool pad and then switch to a pc with a polish pad and make it swirl free. The results are amazing!
 
Looks very good to me as well. I would be happy with the way it came out.



I have not polished any NSXs, I wonder how 106FF and a green or white pad would of finished up with the rotary?



I have used the P2 green pads from exceldetail.com. Not sure if Patrick still sells the P2 pads or not. Anyway with a soft pad like the Green P2, it would be hard to do any damage with a rotary. Its a nice combo to learn with.
 
Fixing micromarring with a rotary is a double edged sword - if the paint marrs with a PC, it will likely trail something awful with a rotary.



On cars that won't finish down perfect, I like either Vanilla Moose or a 50:50 mixture of CG Acrylic and PO106FF. You've got it 95% of the way, you just need a little bit of ultra-fine polishing agents and maybe some filling to put you over the top.



I like the Makita 9227 and Lake Country CCS pads. If you want to give em a shot for a day, let me know - I'm in Jupiter all the time (IIRC you're somewhere in that area).
 
silvergray said:
Looks awesome! Thats about as close to perfect as it gets! :thumbup:



How old are you? You look pretty young to be a detailer.

Thanks silver! I'm 18 and I'll be off to college in August!



themightytimmah said:
Fixing micromarring with a rotary is a double edged sword - if the paint marrs with a PC, it will likely trail something awful with a rotary.



On cars that won't finish down perfect, I like either Vanilla Moose or a 50:50 mixture of CG Acrylic and PO106FF. You've got it 95% of the way, you just need a little bit of ultra-fine polishing agents and maybe some filling to put you over the top.



I like the Makita 9227 and Lake Country CCS pads. If you want to give em a shot for a day, let me know - I'm in Jupiter all the time (IIRC you're somewhere in that area).

When going with a product like Vanilla Moose (is it a gloss, or just a very fine polish like you said) what pad would I be able to apply it with? White/Black Lake and Country?



I've seen a lot of people using the Makita, so I might be in the market for one quite soon, and I live in Jupiter so I might give you a call sometime (I'll PM you) Its nice to know that someone is close!
 
You know what? that last bit just might not be correctable. Not all paint is %100 correctable. You did a damn fine job and as hard as it is, should be stoked on your results.
 
thesacrifice said:
You know what? that last bit just might not be correctable. Not all paint is %100 correctable. You did a damn fine job and as hard as it is, should be stoked on your results.

Thanks guys :D
 
sftempest66- I'm finally getting to this, and sorry again for not being of any help yesterday.



Could be that you just need a finer final polish, either something that starts out milder than the OP or something that finishes out better. I've yet to really "master" OCP, and as I don't go for products that *require* mastering, well, we'll see if I ever really get a handle on it. I probably would've reached for 1Z Pro MP or BF Finishing Polish for SRC if I thought the issue was very soft paint.



The VM has just a tiny bit of cut, that too might've been a solution. And it does a bit of concealing too, so that might've been a good choice...somehow I just never end up reaching for it myself. Not sure how different it would've been from the PolySeal though, doesn't that have a tiny bit of cut too?



Considering how terrible it was when you started I too think you did a great job.
 
OP with a polishing pad leaves light micromarring on my paint if I don't follow with OP and a finishing pad. My paint is just so soft, not much I can do about it. However, on the repainted hood and fender, the paint is noticably harder and OP finishes down perfect with green Cyclo polishing pads.



OPS and a polishing pad should have removed the micromarring though. If not, then maybe Vanilla Moose or Menzerna 106FF would work. Every once in a while, you are going to run across some finicky soft paint that is very tough to finish out.



I do think you did an amazing job on that NSX, especially in light of the before shots. :)
 
Great Work,



What year was the NSX? I've been in your situation last summer. I had a 94 Black NSX who had been neglected pretty badly. In Full on Sunlight it seemed there were Medium amount of swirls, but up close with 1000W Halogens, swirl galore! Ended up doing HyperCompound, Opt Polish x2, Adam's Brilliance Glaze, and 476S. Here were the results:



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Results? Well during polishing I was literally going crazy, since the micromarring wasn't going anywhere. I did research after telling the owner that it was simply not possibly to go further without risking some prolonged damage. (He was happy nevertheless). NSX paint I believe is done in a 27 step (really have to check, but it's quite different). Also add the body is aluminum, and you get some tough conditions.



Definitely need another chance at the paint, but if terms of preserving paint life it works out. I'll have to explore the micro finishing via Rotary/Glaze.



Pedals in that car are ridiculous.
 
SilvaBimma said:
Great Work,



What year was the NSX? I've been in your situation last summer. I had a 94 Black NSX who had been neglected pretty badly. In Full on Sunlight it seemed there were Medium amount of swirls, but up close with 1000W Halogens, swirl galore! Ended up doing HyperCompound, Opt Polish x2, Adam's Brilliance Glaze, and 476S. Here were the results:



Results? Well during polishing I was literally going crazy, since the micromarring wasn't going anywhere. I did research after telling the owner that it was simply not possibly to go further without risking some prolonged damage. (He was happy nevertheless). NSX paint I believe is done in a 27 step (really have to check, but it's quite different). Also add the body is aluminum, and you get some tough conditions.



Definitely need another chance at the paint, but if terms of preserving paint life it works out. I'll have to explore the micro finishing via Rotary/Glaze.



Pedals in that car are ridiculous.



Wow, that car looks great! I believe it was a 96??? I'm not too sure but it looks to be identical to the one that you did. I was also going crazy from the micromarring, I'll be taking care of his cars now (He has 5 of them!) and the next time he brings me the NSX, I'll be trying a glaze via finishing pad or light polishing pad to see if this helps finsh down nicer/fill in some of the micromarring!



His NSX had over 70k on it and had a little bit of clutch chatter...clutch was definately slipping and needed to be replaced but it was still a quick car, but not as fast as my Mach :grinno:
 
Hmmm. I did 2 of those years ago and I did not remember having any problems. I wish I could remember my process. I know on some of these soft paints you can not use any finish polish with grit. A chemical polish is the way to go and let the grade of your pad do the work. Even 106ff will marr the surface and leave ultra fine squiggly little effects.



Both look super though!
 
Beautiful work inside and out! It looks 100 x's better vs. the before shots!:2thumbs:



I would recommend picking up Menzerna FPII or 106FF as they are 2 of the best performing, easy to use finishing polishing that you can find. I use a finishing pad via rotary @ 1000-1400 depending on the paint, and a polishing pad via PC @ 5. I've had the best luck using Lake Country 6.5" flat pads.
 
mgm121499 said:
Beautiful work inside and out! It looks 100 x's better vs. the before shots!:2thumbs:



I would recommend picking up Menzerna FPII or 106FF as they are 2 of the best performing, easy to use finishing polishing that you can find. I use a finishing pad via rotary @ 1000-1400 depending on the paint, and a polishing pad via PC @ 5. I've had the best luck using Lake Country 6.5" flat pads.

Alright, I think I'm definately going to order some 106FF as I have been seeing and hearing great things about it, what would I use this product with? Could I use one of my Lake and Country 6" White LC polishing pads???
 
Wow, great job.



I second the Vanilla Moose though. I'm going to be new to 106FF as I just received some, yet to use though.



Great job on the swirl removal though. That car needed the work.
 
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