Black Lexus Paint

[RAG]

When I detailed this Lexus quite some time ago, I couldn't figure out if it was tinted clear or single stage paint because I got a "moderate" amount of color on my pads. Subsequently there's been a lot of speculation regarding black Lexus paint - though I don't know which models/years is applies to, I can no say with confidence that they use a new kind of single stage paint...basically clear coat mixed with base coat. I think Toyota also uses this same SS paint, as I got the same result when detailing a black Highlander.





Trunk before (again, I had to sand some rust out]:

Trunk after:

Rear fender before:

Front fender after (this picture was actually taken before polishing, right after compounding with PG!):

 

[RAG]

On a positive note, I have not found this form of SS paint particularly difficult to finish down on halogram-free with a rotary...but man does the PC leave a haze of micromarring (I even tried PO85RD with various pads). Some SS paints can be miserably tough to finish down on halogram-free. Also, I bet one can safely remove more paint (like .5 mils or more) over the long haul without comprimising longevity.



Overall, I think I like this paint...though one must keep in mind that ALL black paint is painfull to maintain.

 

[Bigpoppa3346]

Interesting thoughts on the base mixed with the clear. I spoke with a BMW salesperson and they say they mix their base with the clearcoat-clearly he was incorrect, because I have compounded/polished a few 06' black BMW's and there was no color transfer. IMO Toyota/Lexus has really got their act together with their paint. Great work, paint looks really clear and defect free.

 

[Driven-528e]

I had the exact same thing happen to me while buffing a black lexus SUV. It really was odd. Thanks for finding out more about it and nicely done with that car! Im impressed you finished PG down so well. I had trouble finding a combo that was aggressive enough that didnt leave bad holograms, on the lexus I did.

 

[RAG]

Interesting thoughts on the base mixed with the clear. I spoke with a BMW salesperson and they say they mix their base with the clearcoat-clearly he was incorrect, because I have compounded/polished a few 06' black BMW's and there was no color transfer. IMO Toyota/Lexus has really got their act together with their paint. Great work, paint looks really clear and defect free.

Yeah, everybody and their mother's has a BMW here in SoCal and I've never once come across one with integrated clear; though many of the older white ones are/were standard SS paint.

 

[RAG]

I had the exact same thing happen to me while buffing a black lexus SUV. It really was odd. Thanks for finding out more about it and nicely done with that car! Im impressed you finished PG down so well. I had trouble finding a combo that was aggressive enough that didnt leave bad holograms, on the lexus I did.

I ultimately finished with FPII after PG, but on the "after" side shot you see , the pic was taken before finishing off...in direct sun the halograms would have been present for sure. I used a "polishing" pad with PG...specifically the white LC VC which helps finish down a lot better than if one uses a cutting pad. In fact, on hard to get to spots, I actually had to hit it with FPII twice to completely removing the halograms left by PG, as even though PG finishes off very nicely, going from PG to FPII is a big leap on black paint. If I had to do it over again, I'd got PG/RMG, IP/RMG, them FPII (or PO106FF).

 

[SpoiledMan]

When I detailed this Lexus quite some time ago, I couldn't figure out if it was tinted clear or single stage paint because I got a "moderate" amount of color on my pads. Subsequently there's been a lot of speculation regarding black Lexus paint - though I don't know which models/years is applies to, I can no say with confidence that they use a new kind of single stage paint...basically clear coat mixed with base coat.

I was told by someone "knowledgeable" that it was tinted clear. After removing a deep scratch from my sisters '02 black IS, I can say with confidence that it is SS paint. This was a good test as she was going to repaint the panel if I couldn't get it out so I could get as tough as I wanted with it. It came completely out and there's no other evidence of the scratch other than the dent. SS paint for sure!

 

[Envious Eric]

you know what on that prius I did, there was a lot of paint transfer from the pg/rmg mix and removing all the water spots and scratches....so I guess it was tinted clear

 

[SDLexus]

The Lexus black being a ss base mixed with clear has been pretty much common knowledge within Lexus owner's circles. The question always comes up though.

 

[RAG]

you know what on that prius I did, there was a lot of paint transfer from the pg/rmg mix and removing all the water spots and scratches....so I guess it was tinted clear

I think that was actually integrated clear (a new form of SS paint). I'll see, cause I'm detailing my first black Prius in about a week.

 

[imported_mburnickas]

[quote name='RAG']When I detailed this Lexus quite some time ago, I couldn't figure out if it was tinted clear or single stage paint because I got a "moderate" amount of color on my pads. Subsequently there's been a lot of speculation regarding black Lexus paint - though I don't know which models/years is applies to, I can no say with confidence that they use a new kind of single stage paint...basically clear coat mixed with base coat. I think Toyota also uses this same SS paint, as I got the same result when detailing a black Highlander.





Trunk before (again, I had to sand some rust out]:

Looks like a free wash job from Lexus.

 

[Driven-528e]

I ultimately finished with FPII after PG, but on the "after" side shot you see , the pic was taken before finishing off...in direct sun the halograms would have been present for sure. I used a "polishing" pad with PG...specifically the white LC VC which helps finish down a lot better than if one uses a cutting pad. In fact, on hard to get to spots, I actually had to hit it with FPII twice to completely removing the halograms left by PG, as even though PG finishes off very nicely, going from PG to FPII is a big leap on black paint. If I had to do it over again, I'd got PG/RMG, IP/RMG, them FPII (or PO106FF).

Thanks for the info! I wouldnt have thought to use the white pad for the heavy polishing step.

 

[RAG]

Thanks for the info! I wouldnt have thought to use the white pad for the heavy polishing step.

Yeah, I'm a big fan of using "polishing" pads for compounding...once the compound breaks down, it allow you to finish down quite nicely. On the other hand, with a rough cutting pad your are limited to how well you can finish down by the pad - even a final finish polish with a cutting pad usually leaves the surface pretty tore up. On the other hand, if you plan on performing a 3 or 4 step buffing process, then you mine as well get the extra cut from the pad...at which point I usually break out the lambswool.