Bird poop... removing..

:sign

bird2.jpg
 
Once the poop dries, it is dried and the etching is done. It is doubtful that cleaning the poop is going to reactivate acid that will damage the paint. If there was a reactivation of (evaporated) acid the poop is being removed faster than any significant damage can occur. With baking soda be careful. It can be classified as an abrasive. Without acccess to a lab, water is probably the best know way to neutralize acid.
 
I just spray the poo w/ some Meg QD let it sit for 15-30 seconds and gently wipe it off w/ a MF cloth, carefully so as not to scratch the paint.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Unless the alcohol is combining with the acid in some way, even if it is "mixed" with the acid, only the alcohol wil evaporate, leaving the acid still there (IMO). That's like saying if you wash oil off something with a volatile solvent, and let the mixture evaporate, that the oil will evaporate with the solvent...if things worked that way...there would be no such thing as vapor degreasiing.

I have some scepticism about this as well. But, if alcohol didn't take something with it when it evaporated, then all distilled alcoholic beverages would be vodka.



What is vapour degreasing?
 
I'll use the IPA mix, it's dirt cheap and if there's any hint to truth that indeed QDs arent good for removing bird crap, I've avoided that by using the alcohol.
 
If you have something dissolved in a solvent (like alcohol), if you limit the temperature of the mixture to that of the boiling temperature of the solvent, you will selectively evaporate the solvent, I guess that would be the definition of distilling. If you increase the temperature, you will volatilize other portions that have higher boiling points. So I guess if you put the alcohol on a hot car surface, you might draw out some other contaminants when it evaporates.



(Vapor degreasing is a process where a "dirty" part is immersed in the vapor of a boiling solvent. The solvent condenses on the colder part, washing off soil (grease) as it drips back into the boiling sump. Because the temperature of the boiling sump is limited to just above the boiling point of the solvent, the soil, which has a higher boiling point, remains (to a very large degree) in the sump and not on the part. Eventually, contamination of the solvent will raise the boiling point, at which point the solvent must be changed)



Sheesh...all this science for bird poop!
 
Well, time for more science...I borrowed some litmus paper from work...wetted a bird pee (not poop) stain on my car with some water...and found the solution didn't have a different pH than water (I don't know if this was a good test, since they were small spots).



I then checked my Poorboy's BSR and S&W for pH. Within the resolution of the pH paper, the S&W seemed to be neutral to very slightly alkaline. The BSR seemed to be slightly to the acid side of neutral (please note that tap water is usually slightly to the acid side of neutral). Detergents are alkaline.



So...what did we learn from this?
 
Well, time for more science...I borrowed some litmus paper from work...wetted a bird pee (not poop) stain on my car with some water...and found the solution didn't have a different pH than water (I don't know if this was a good test, since they were small spots).



How do you know it was bird pee?



Birds don't have a pee hole and a poop hole, it is a combined hole and they will always poop and pee intermixed.
 
I consider bird pee to be the more transparent stuff, as opposed to the white stuff. I have a dark car, and this stuff is deadly because it is hard to see/know it is there.
 
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