Best products to use for exterior protection?

A friend of mine asked me if I could wash and add some sort of LSP protection to his Victory Red (birght red) Chevy Cobalt tomorrow to which I agreed. The car sits outside and never sees a garage, but he does hand wash it which is usually once or twice a month. So it does see the typical Tennesse heat and humidity during the day and morning dew on it. Being a red car that is daily driven is does have some light micromarring, but no major swirling or anything like that, and nothing that he wants to do a machine correction with. Durability is the most important factors in the LSP, since colder months will be coming up before too long.



I am thinking of using the following products I have, but between which of these will provide the best protection against the elements on a daily driven car, and how many months could I expect using each combo?



Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish w Blackfire Wet Diamond (Applied twice) (Actually have not tried this stuff on a vehicle yet)



or



Poorboys non abrasive polish w Collinite 845 mixed with Polycharger CH2 (Applied twice)





What will be the diffence in color using the two, since Blackfire is a sealant while 845 is a carnuba like wax? Does Blackfire make the finish more brighter while 845 darkens and deepens it?
 
Right off the bat, I would not use something with fillers before applying your sealant/wax if you're looking for durability.
 
The BF GEP doesn't seem to diminish LSP durability IME.



I'd go with FK1000P or Collinite 476S, but the 845 sometimes lasts a nice long time (and other times it doesn't).



IME 845 looks kinda "bright, reflective, and sealanty", so I sure wouldn't think of it as a "carnauba", not even close. It does not do the "rich, dark, deep" thing the way waxes like Meg's #26 do. IMO 845 is much more like a sealant than a wax, lots of "not carnauba" stuff in it; that's why it lasts so long.



I haven't used BFWD, but their older sealant All Finish Paint Protection (is the product different, or just the name :nixweiss ) actually looked a lot more "wax like" than the 845. Lots of darkening from the oils. Not too durable (and yeah...I tried it without the GEP and there was no diff).
 
Accumulator said:
The BF GEP doesn't seem to diminish LSP durability IME.



I'd go with FK1000P or Collinite 476S, but the 845 sometimes lasts a nice long time (and other times it doesn't).



IME 845 looks kinda "bright, reflective, and sealanty", so I sure wouldn't think of it as a "carnauba", not even close. It does not do the "rich, dark, deep" thing the way waxes like Meg's #26 do. IMO 845 is much more like a sealant than a wax, lots of "not carnauba" stuff in it; that's why it lasts so long.



I haven't used BFWD, but their older sealant All Finish Paint Protection (is the product different, or just the name :nixweiss ) actually looked a lot more "wax like" than the 845. Lots of darkening from the oils. Not too durable (and yeah...I tried it without the GEP and there was no diff).

Is there any kind of reasoning or factors you found for 845 to not last long at times?



So you think the Poorboys polish may hinder the durability of 845? I want to apply something before LSP since it's not a concours perfect car without and kind of light scrtches and mircomarring. The Poorboys stuff seems to really bring out the clor in darker vehicles, so that why I thought that this was a good choice





wascallyrabbit said:
how about opti seal then get him to buy some opti car wax so when he washes the car it stays waxed.

Ideally that'd be the better choice, but since I am doing this tomorrow I don't have time to order online and wait for something to ship to me
 
Out of your lists above I think either BFWD or 845 would be a good choice, if you can not polish before hand I would just do an IPA or similar wipe down after washing and then apply either with no products on before to hinder the durability
 
1 coat of wet diamond, and 2 coats of 845(12 hours respectively apart), I believe will give you the best look and also the best protection!
 
I vote for more frequent washings. Getting the offending contaminents off the paint os the most important thing you could do
 
The BF GEP doesn't seem to diminish LSP durability IME.

20.creation.jpg
 
Accumulator said:
I'd go with FK1000P or Collinite 476S, but the 845 sometimes lasts a nice long time (and other times it doesn't).



+1. FK 1000p is my top pick. However, from the viewpoint of simplicity, the Collinite 845 might be the best recommendation if y'all are trying to keep it real simple.



You'll need some sort of pre-step (polishing, cleaning, etc.) to optimize your result, Mr. Redline.
 
RedlineIRL said:
Is there any kind of reasoning or factors you found for 845 to not last long at times?



Nope, it's a genuine mystery! It wears like iron on some applications and needs redone pretty often on others, and I'm pretty confident I've considered all the relevent factors. It's sorta like it just *works better* on some paints, and/or othe surfaces, than on others.



I'd at least give it a try; my niece-in-law is very happy with 845 and FWIW she lives in Memphis.



Tell him to redo the 845 when the beading changes. Hey, it's not like it's any big chore. IF he's unhappy with the durability tell him to try 476S instead (and if he gripes about it I'd be thinking along the lines of "do your own [darn] car..." :chuckle: ).





So you think the Poorboys polish may hinder the durability of 845? I want to apply something before LSP since it's not a concours perfect car without and kind of light scrtches and mircomarring. The Poorboys stuff seems to really bring out the clor in darker vehicles, so that why I thought that this was a good choice



-AND-



careboy said:
The BF GEP doesn't seem to diminish LSP durability IME.



If I had to guess I would expect the PB would *NOT* diminish the durability. I've used various glazes/etc. under Collinite and it doesn't seem to hurt anything. I've had oily concealers actually quit hiding stuff while the Collinite on top of them was still OK! Yeah, weird, but that's how it worked out. Having glazes/etc. under Collinite simply never had a downside for me and that combo was my friends-and-family approach back when I did cars for others.
 
No need to add Polycharger to 845...it won't do anything. PC works with siloxane-based LSPs, whereas 845 is a Polyethylene-based LSP, from memory. Won't work with Klasse either for the same reason.
 
+1 on the Fk1000. In Florida it is my go to Lsp on everything but black, blue, and silver. On those I use HD POXY......then top it with FK1000 12 hours later if possible.
 
Something relatively easy to use and durable.



845, or any of the collinite, or any of the DG 105/501/111 sealants are awesome. And they aren't tempermental.



Or like the other guys said, something like the additive effects of OCW or Optiseal since it takes longer to dry a panel than it does to wax an entire car with the stuff.
 
Kolokefalo said:
+1 on the Fk1000. In Florida it is my go to Lsp on everything but black, blue, and silver. On those I use HD POXY......then top it with FK1000 12 hours later if possible.



Ah, no issues topping with FK1000P like that, huh? I never know what will/won't work under it...
 
lostdaytomorrow said:
I'd go with the Collinite 476s (watch for problems with layering, ie. very annoying slick holograms) or collinite 945.



If don't the 476S that pseudo-hologram issue is sooo problematic (IME) that I'd just do one coat and then reapply after a while. Yeah, one coat will provide plenty of protection, or you could top it with 845 after the next wash and then just refresh that as needed.



My usual Collinite approach is a "sandwich" of 845 then 476S then 845 (the latter refreshed as needed until I redo the whole thing after a long, long time).
 
I think as long as you clean the car thoroughly, prep it, and throw down any sealant listed above you will get great results and your friends will be happy. You can put alot of thought into it or you can flip a coin but as long as you follow the fundamentals you cant really go wrong.
 
Back
Top