Best Products and Techniques for Older Paint

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Sharpie1

New member
I currently own a 1983 Mercedes-Benz 300D. The car has a paint color of light ivory and is the original paint on the car. The overall appearance of the paint is good – however there is some cracking noticeable when examined closely. I drive the car often (at least 3-4 days per week) and I would like to preserve the originality of the car, including the paint, as long as possible.
I have been using Klasse acrylic paint sealer about every other time I wash the car – and I sometimes use Pinnacle Souveran wax over that. I apply the Klasse with a microfiber or foam applicator – then buff off with a microfiber cloth. I apply the Pinnacle Souveran wax similarly, but buff off with a random orbital polisher with a microfiber bonnet.
After doing more research, however, it seems this might not be the best combination. This is chiefly because it appears the Klasse is for newer paints – not a paint finish from 1983. A quote from the website indicates Klasse is “…for new cars and oxidation-free surfaces…”.
My goal is primarily to preserve and protect the original paint as long as possible. That said, what are some recommended products and/or techniques to best care for this type of paint?
Helpful comments from this knowledgeable community are appreciated.
Thanks…
 
Welcome to AutopiaForums Sharpie1, as far as I can tell you are doing the right thing but when the paint has some type of cracking aka Crows feet or checking there's no product that will stop it from happening, it might prolong it but IMO you will have to get it repainted some thing down the road. All you can use is a wax like Colinite that last a very good time for your finish.
 
That's a 32 year old paint. Maybe the oldie's Meguiar #7 or 3M IHG and just a carnauba wax of your choice.

If it were me and I was to keep the car long-term, I would search out a restoration shop for a re-painting like OP said above.
 
Ok - I did a little research on "Collinite", "3M IHG" and "Meguiar's #7".

It would appear that Collinite insulator Wax (No. 845) is the bees knees - and pretty much exactly what I'm looking for. I realize it's old paint and that it isn't going to last forever, but everything on the car is original and in extremely great condition - and even the paint shines up well with some care. I just want to keep that going as long as possible.

I am curious about why Meguiar's #7 and the 3M IHG would be recommended. According to the product descriptions, they're designed for brand new paint??

i am wanting basically a hard shell that goes over the paint that is almost like a second layer of paint.

I may get the Collinite 845 - unless there is something else that's comparable and better? The other products didn't seem to be as relevant for what I'm trying to achieve, Although I could be wrong about that.

thanks - and keep the input coming. It's much appreciated!
 
Sharpie1 said:
Ok - I did a little research on "Collinite", "3M IHG" and "Meguiar's #7".

It would appear that Collinite insulator Wax (No. 845) is the bees knees - and pretty much exactly what I'm looking for. I realize it's old paint and that it isn't going to last forever, but everything on the car is original and in extremely great condition - and even the paint shines up well with some care. I just want to keep that going as long as possible.

I am curious about why Meguiar's #7 and the 3M IHG would be recommended. According to the product descriptions, they're designed for brand new paint??

i am wanting basically a hard shell that goes over the paint that is almost like a second layer of paint.

I may get the Collinite 845 - unless there is something else that's comparable and better? The other products didn't seem to be as relevant for what I'm trying to achieve, Although I could be wrong about that.

thanks - and keep the input coming. It's much appreciated!
Click to expand...

Paint like that needs to be "fed" first, then you can put the candy shell on it.

Follow Addy's post and read the mike phillips article (ya need an old school pro since it's old school paint)
 
Excellent. That was very helpful!

I just read the article. It would seem that using the Meguiar's #7 first, then following up with Collinite 845 would be a good way to go.

I read and then retread the part about applying the wax. The choice of using Dodo Juice didn't seem to be relevant other than the "warm" nature of the paint color. If the Collinite is the toughest, most long lasting and best protecting wax, perhaps it would be the one to use after the Meguiar's #7.

I have the Pinnacle Souveran - but it isn't apparent that this carnauba wax is any more long lasting than the Collinite. Quite the contrary. I could use the Pinnacle on my newer car only.

Would that seem like sound logic?

Thanks again.
 
The Collinite will outlast both the DDJ & the Souveran and I'm not sure in the blind test you could a difference. Definitely go with the Megs #7 first and if you have the Collinite and the Souveran already, I would suggest one of those. And if you really really can't decide, Megs #7 first, lay down a coat of the Collinite and the next morning top it all off with the Pinnacle. Probably the best of all worlds.
 
sharpie1- Welcome to Autopia!

I'm a big fan of older, high-quality single stage paint (started this stuff back in the '70s, had Benzes of that vintage myself, still have a Jag of that era). Mike P. and I are always on the same page regarding sticking with the older-tech approaches on older-tech paint.

BUT I'd use Collinite's 476S paste wax instead of the 845. IME it's more compatible with the underlying glazes (e.g., M07, IHG) with less solvent-action than the 845. Lasts much longer too.

I WOULD NOT top it with Pinnacle Souveran (which I like and use on my Jag) as sometimes the Pinnacle does unexpectedly awful things to the underlying products including Collinite (never would've expected it).

The Souveran just doesn't last/protect well enough for me to recommend it in this case, but just FWIW when I use it on single stage I apply it over Autoglym's Super Resin Polish (which I use instead of the M07/IHG). Nice for a garage-queen like my Jag but I'd be all about protection on that Benz (similar paint to the Sahara Beige my 450SL had only even less particular about the appearance nuances of the wax IMO).

My wife used to really like Souveran on her Audi, but I got tired of redoing it all the time. Came up with stuff that looks good but lasts for months on end and we're both OK with that.
 
I'm going to defer to George on this one since he's got first hand experience. Meg #7 & the Collinite seems to be the winner.
 
Actually, I could make a good argument for using M09 Swirlmark Remover v2.0 instead of the M07. M09 doesn't really *remove* any marring (unless used with a rotary and a harsh pad) but it does fill and it contains many of the same ingredients as M07....and it's easier IMO. I think M09 + 476S might be the ticket unless the paint is really suffering from "old single stage" issues (no, the crowfeet don't count IMO) where it could benefit from the additional Trade Secret Oils in the M07. Eh, either of those, or IHG, or the SRP. I would use 476S on that though, whatever glaze step is chosen.
 
I've done a few single-stage paint restorations, following the process detailed in Mike's superb article and will add my $.02. Using M07 and allowing it to sink into the paint definitely makes old parched paint more "workable". The use of a terrycloth towel and some pressure with M07 accomplishes a fair amount of polishing on it's own. Mike used a mf towel in his original article, but later changed to a terry washcloth in subsequent articles, such as Wayne Carini's Hudson. Following the "old-school products for old-school finishes" approach, I use either Meg's M80 if the paint needs some serious polishing or M03 for lighter work, varying the cut with pad choice. I've tried both M02 and M09, but just feel M80 or M03 work better on my paint. I still apply one more pass of M07 prior to LSP, normally using a mf towel and removing it almost immediately, just 'cause it looks so much better. My experience agrees with Accumulator that many paste waxes often work better than liquids, especially on darker colors such as my Camino's Burgundy Metallic. I've used Dodo Juice paste, Meg's M26, Collinite 915 and Fuzion paste with equally good results. I have some various cracked paint areas also and will wipe off the wax immediately in those areas, not allowing it to haze and dry white in the cracks.
Here's a shot of my Camino to give you an idea of what I'm working with. Once a year I've sent Mike a "Thank You" message when I do my annual judged show entry. Back in 2010, when I did my first paint resto, it was starting to turn pink from exposure. I still do a streamlined version of the process every year, but as a garage queen it really isn't necessary. I could probably get away with claying, a single aggressive rub with M07 and a final wax job.

Bill
 
Very good. I've ordered the M#7 and the Collinite 845. I will also try the paste wax another time as well.

Here are some pics of the Benz I'm referring to. I tried to get the paint from different angles. From 10 ft away, the car looks 9.5/10 - but on closer inspection, the paint is really showing its age. It does still maintain a great shine though.

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sharpie1- Oh how I love that car! I'd much rather have that imperfect old paint than a perfect REpaint any day. To me, after all that time the flaws are "patina".

See how the 845 plays with M07, might work fine. I'd use the 845 (preferably preceded by Klasse All in One) on the black plastic/rubber trim too.

Oh, and I'll remove the emblems/script like on the trunklid, easiest way to do those areas IME.

Billy Jack- Yeah, using terry with M07 is another of those old-school tricks; the terry does the cutting. Gotta do some refining of the finish afterwards though, or at least I always had to.

It funny about M03, it was always just as (functionally) nonabrasive as M05/M07 for me but others think it cuts for them. Probably another "application media" type thing as per the M07/terry. I do find it more user-friendly than M07 though (if not as much so as M05, which I think is discontinued). M81 is another good product for jobs like this.
 
Will do. I just got 2 bottles of the M#7 in today from Amazon along with 4 of the foam applicators. Hopefully the Collinite will be here in a couple of days.
 
Heh heh, I keep repeating myself about loving that car, but the older Benzes just *do it* for me. (I gotta have a '86-up as I need the telescoping steering wheel though...)
 
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