Best Final Finishing Pad for Rotary

R

RAG

New member
For those of you who choose/are able to finish down on black halogram free with a rotary, what pad have you found to be the best (least aggressive) for this.



For me it's been the Green Propel II, this might surprise some since the the blue and white propel pads are "softer"...but they seem to grip the paint more due to the higher PPI and this tends to lead to slight swirls.



Thanks for weighing in.
 
Interesting that the green finishes down better.



It is not within my skill set to finish down hologram free with the rotary, but I do (a lot of times) use a green SM Arnold pad on the PC with FPII or BF SRC FP as a last step and IMO it works just as well as the blue.
 
gmblack3a said:
Ryan, What about the LC white VC? I do like the green P2.
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I don't think I could even finish down halogram free on a red or blue vehicle with the white LC VC - I think this pad is very aggressive as far as so-called polishing pads go. In fact, this is the pad I usually use for compounding. I have the red and green LC VCs which are quite soft, but I really haven't tried final finishing with them on black.
 
ebpcivicsi said:
Interesting that the green finishes down better.



It is not within my skill set to finish down hologram free with the rotary, but I do (a lot of times) use a green SM Arnold pad on the PC with FPII or BF SRC FP as a last step and IMO it works just as well as the blue.
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Yeah, whenever I come across really soft black paint, it can be pretty tough. But I forced myself to, cause I especially don't like the slightly "hazed" finish I get with a DA on these paints caused by the abrasive particles...even PO85RD seems to do it. It's nothing like the haze from compounding, but I can see it nonetheless...and I've tried a zillion pads trying to see if that make a difference - nope.
 
Ryan-IIRC Anthony sticks with OP, but runs through the various pads based on his assessment of condition of the paint. e.g he might use a light cut, a polish and then a finishing pad all with OP, then top with OCW.
 
Thanks. But I wonder what pad he uses last on a black vehicle. If he doesn't see this thread and respond, I'll have to send him a PM.



And I'm pretty sure I know why he doesn't seem real prone to jump to heavy compound on black (I'm with him there)...cause even when you polish a couple times afterward, there always seems to be a few traces of rotary marks remaining, especially in the more confined areas. Somethings I think I would be better off to use a final finishing polish several times rather than going to a light compound and then final finish polish...in fact, with the advent of 106FF, I think I'm going to do this more often (106FF seems to remove quite a bit of defects for me, even more than OC).
 
RAG said:
Thanks. But I wonder what pad he uses last on a black vehicle. If he doesn't see this thread and respond, I'll have to send him a PM.
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I believe he uses the "white" finishing pad, not sure what brand, but probably comparable to the white edge or the "fast action" brand.



You must do a lot of *very* soft, fresh from the body shop black paint?
 
ebpcivicsi said:
I believe he uses the "white" finishing pad, not sure what brand, but probably comparable to the white edge or the "fast action" brand.



You must do a lot of *very* soft, fresh from the body shop black paint?
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Some, but not necessarily. Truethfully, black is always tuff - the swirls are always harder to remove than expected and it's always difficult to finish down properly (but it all depends on what your "standard" is).
 
I gotcha, I just never have problems, or a haze with FP or BF SRC FP via PC as a final step on soft black paint.



I do know what you mean though, the way a DA can "dull" the results previously acheived via rotary. This "dullness" is what lead me to the menzerna products.
 
VaSuperShine said:
great success with 3m black polishing pad via rotary as finish. fp2 and that pad are always batting cleanup for me.
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For cost savings, I'll be going back to FPII once the heat is gone (it's my winter polish). For all the pads I've tried, I don't have any of the 3M pads. I'll have to get one and compare it under equal pressure and speed to the P2s.
 
I have that german polishing pad and like it....I use it with OP and fpII and it finishes down better than the yellow megs pad....deeper gloss and wetness...of course that is with a PC, not rotary
 
i think my wool is 3m as well rag, at any rate the black polishing pads are so simple to use and great for finishing ive never seen one skip or try to take off on anyone. you should give em a whirl.
 
ryan-I found this post on another forum. This is what Anthony used on a black 997S he did recently



I polished this paint out with 4 different pads and 1 polish. I used a rotary polisher and a light cutting pad with Optimum Polish then moved down to a blue polishing pad, then a black finishing pad and then a white ultra fine finishing pad. Paint was then sealed with Optimum wax.



HTH
 
Sounds about right

I did a black one hologram free with OHC w/ edge yellow and sonus DAS orange (side mirrors and small areas), Menzerna RD (IP) w/ edge green

Menzerna RD (FP) with edge blue, Clearkote pink moose w/ edge blue and white pad





Totally markless paint in sun and artificial light with a 9227.

Though only possible thanks to everyone on this forum.



Honestly, an edge white pad or Lake country equivalent which is even softer will do it every time

Pity that sonus don't make a version of the white pad.



I could make it better thanks to the discovery I made this friday night but won't see car again for some time
 
i'm still resorting to the PC for final polishing (favourite being #80).



I use the white LC VC pads, and find the buffer trails and holograms are more dependant on the polish as opposed the pad...



w/ the rotary, after #85, i get quiet a bit of trailing and swirling,, then after #80 alot less,,, but I still have to go to the PC !!!
 
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