Bentley Flying Spur Black Paint - How it should look

PROServices said:
Ive never used 83 it looks like there is very little powder...
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It powders as you work it in the paint. It's not as bad as the 3M Extra Cut compound or some of the other products, but there is a fair amount.



I always power wash a car or use ONR after compounding and polishing.





Harry: Chrome plating is a micro thin surface to cover the shiney nickel plating underneath. Once scratched, you can't "buff it out" but you can use some polishes to reduce the scratch appearance. Try some Turtle Wax Chrome polish....good stuff that's cheap.



Toto
 
Totoland Mach- [Insert usual :bow regarding your work here..]



Nice to see that today's Bentleys have nice paint again. Did it seem thick enough to handle much correction? I know it's hard to tell, but just your guess would be appreciated.
 
Accumulator said:
Totoland Mach- [Insert usual :bow regarding your work here..]



Nice to see that today's Bentleys have nice paint again. Did it seem thick enough to handle much correction? I know it's hard to tell, but just your guess would be appreciated.
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Accumulator: The Bentley's paint was extremely workable for correction. The cat scratches, while numerous, were not deep and the Meg's 83 corrected them quickly. I actually sent an e-mail to Bentley in the U.K. and congratulated them on the quality of their paint. Maybe they will write back and let me know their process.



Toto
 
Maybe their send you to the UK and you show your workmanship to them and do a video on it too for their dealerships worldwide.........
 
Thanks Toto, I will give it a try after this winter with 4" spot pads.



Those new pictures are insane, what a great job you have done to it!
 
Totoland Mach- Thanks for the additional info :xyxthumbs I'd be interested in any reply from Bentley, sounds like they're not using the same paint as Audi and I always assume (yeah, I know :o ) that their corporate affiliations have something to do with such stuff.
 
Just had to give this thread a bump... Greg Nichols and I are gonna be tag teaming a black Bentley on Monday. Sure hope ours turns out as good as Toto's stunner. Wow. Think I'll print out pics of this and hang it on the wall so we can compare while we work....Does it look as good as Toto's yet? No? back at it...



We've both looked over the Bentley we're gonna do. The paint looks about like what the "befores" here did. We were discussing a plan of attack today over the phone, and had initially agreed on PFW and SIP, but after reading a bunch of threads about how soft Bentley paint is, i'm a bit concerned that SIP might not play nicely with that soft of paint and that it might be overkill. Maybe I'll see what Greg thinks about just regular ole IP to start instead.



Usually SIP just doesn't play well with soft paint.. has anyone here ever used SIP on a Bentley? If so, how did it work?
 
You know, since you bumped this, I've always meant to ask toto - what kind of lighting is that on the side of the shop there? It looks like fluorescents, just wondering which?
 
I've used SIP with CCS orange and it did a decent job of attacking the finish, but deeper RIDS still remained. If I reflected back, I'd gather that PFW would definately have been a step up, BUT because this paint is super soft, I'd be concerned what it would take to finish it out after that (3 more steps?). I'd avoid wool and *maybe* try foam with 105.



I guarantee this is 1 vehicle you're not able to final finish with any kind of wool pad! If so, brind lots of solvent to wipe it down. Ultrafina with a blue CCS makes for a perfect last step.



Are you planning on doing a Click N Brag?
 
thanks david for the input.



Are you saying that something like a white CCS and SIP or IP is as strong as we might need to go on the first step? How does this paint compare to say some hondas or acuras?



GREG
 
If the finish is moderately marred, white CCS probably won't break through enough defects. Bentley's are hand painted and are very soft. Don't be surprised if it gets marked up when you clay. Because of this, I'd step up with the product, not the pad.
 
Just kicking around ideas....



Step One: Regular IP with PFW

Step Two: PO106FF or UF with WFW

Step Three: PO85RD with Red wave foam

Step Four: FPII with Red wave foam.



Yeah, that's a ton of work, but we'll be doing it together and it's very important to us to get the absolute best finish we can on this one. If we turn this one into a stunner, we could end up doing a very cool collection of cars. If we have time, I'd like to even do a fifth step with one more pass of FPII.
 
That's alot of work. In fact, probably too repetitive to do steps 3 and 4. UF should be the last product that touches the paint prior to LSP. If the benefits of adding 85rd are worth the extra work for this application then I'd compare it to the UF results and go from there. Every car is diffferent.



How about:

105 - orange CCS

SIP - white CCS

UF
 
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